Ant-keeping
Ant-keeping is a hobby involving the capture, care, and observation of ants and ant colonies. It is a form of lay myrmecology. The trend toward keeping ants as pets has increased exponentially over the past decade.
History
Keeping ants as pets have been a common hobby since the mass-marketed Uncle Milton's Ant Farm achieved commercial success in the late 1950s, though these ant farms did not include a queen ant for legal reasons. With the exception of Pogonomyrmex occidentalis, U.S. Federal law restricts shipping live queen ants of other species in interstate commerce.Reasons for ant-keeping
Ant keepers may choose to keep ants in captivity to document ant behavior. This field of study is called myrmecology. Ant keepers may also choose to keep ants as a casual hobby; i.e., as pets. People who keep ants may also keep them for scientific purposes and experiments. Furthermore, ants require less involvement from human keepers to breed, as long as the proper conditions are met, as opposed to other species.Starting a colony
There are differing methods of starting, caring for, and housing an ant colony. In the United States queen ants can be bought from vendors provided that the seller meets state and federal requirements, including USDA permits. If you are in the UK or in any other European country, most exotic species of ant can be purchased legally through vendors though it depends on local laws.Locating a queen ant
The first step involved in ant keeping is capturing a fertilized queen ant. Ants engage in nuptial flights during spring, summer, and some species have also been recorded to have their nuptial flights during winter. After these flights a fertilized queen ant will land and remove her wings before locating a spot to found her new colony. Nuptial flights often happen after a heavy rain or a drastic seasonal change. If a queen has already chewed her wings off, she is likely fertilized. If a queen ant on the ground still has her wings, she is likely unfertilized.A queen ant can be distinguished from an ergate by the relatively larger size of the thorax, and the enlarged abdomen which contains eggs. Beware that certain species have large workers similar in size to a queen; Pheidologeton diversus, for example, possesses several castes of dinergates. If the possible queen you are looking at has marks on either side of the thorax it is a queen. If not, it's a supermajor in most cases. In some rare cases, species can have queens without wings at all, like some Myrmecia species. These are called ergatoid queens
Housing the queen ant
For fully claustral species, the queen should be sealed in a dark, aerated small container with access to water. One way to provide this environment involves using a test tube setup. For this you need a test tube, then pour water about 1/3 of the test tube's volume, then proceed to put a cotton ball in so that it reaches the water line, put in your queen and seal it off with another cotton ball. This nesting chamber should be kept in the dark for one month while the queen lays her eggs and tends to them until they hatch. A claustral ant species need not be fed during this period, as a queen ant will digest her now-useless wing muscles to provide her with the necessary energy until her first generation of workers emerges. But feeding a small drop of honey energises the queen ant and reduces the chances of her eating her own eggs.For a semi-claustral species, which will require food during this nesting phase, protein rich foods should be provided intermittently during the pre-worker phase, with the frequency and type of food determined by the specific species of ant.
Moving the ants into a larger housing
If successful with feeding the first generation of workers, the queen ant should continue laying eggs. Eventually, the colony should be moved into a larger housing such as a formicarium to allow continued growth of the colony. If you wish to put your ants into a setup before this 'worker limit', you may purchase a 'test tube outworld' which will allow them to be fed more easily, while still inside the test tube.Caring for ants
Dietary needs
An ant's diet should consist primarily of sugars/carbohydrates and proteins. The sugars are necessary to provide the ants with energy, and the proteins are necessary for the growth of the colony. Uneaten food should be removed to prevent the growth of mold in the formicariumIn some ant species, such as in the Pogonomyrmex genus, seeds are necessary for proper growth. These ants will not accept sugars such as honey, but will accept various seeds including chia seeds. These will provide this species and other harvester ants with all the energy they need for proper development