Uli Biaho

Uli Biaho is a mountain within the Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan, near Trango Towers and Baltoro Glacier. It consists of two main peaks: Uli Biaho Tower, and Uli Biaho Peak. As of 2006, Uli Biaho Peak remained unclimbed.
Uli Biaho Tower was ascended in an alpine-style approach via the direct East Face route by a team led by John Roskelley. On July 3, 1979, all four climbers from the United States successfully reached the summit. John Roskelley later dedicated a chapter to their Uli Biaho climb in his 1993 book titled "Stories Off the Wall."

Notable ascents

In 1979, the East Face of Uli Biaho Tower was climbed via a challenging route rated at VII F8 A4, comprising 34 pitches. The ascent took place from June 24 to July 5, 1979, and the team consisted of John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Ron Kauk, and Bill Forrest.
In 1988, another ascent of Uli Biaho Tower was achieved via the Pilone Sud route, which involved climbing with a rating of 6b and A3, covering a distance of 800 meters. This ascent occurred from June 19 to 21 in 1988. The team consisted of Maurizio Giordani, Roberto Manfrini, Maurizio Venzo, Kurt Walde.
In 2006, Slovakian climbers Gabo Cmarik and Jozef 'Dodo' Kopold ascended the Uli Biaho Tower via the Drastissima VI/6 ABO route on the Northwest Face from June 23 to 25.
In 2013, Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera, and Sihan Schüpbach successfully tackled the Uli Biaho Tower's West Face with one aid pitch and 18 pitches of free climbing. This feat was accomplished in a day and a half on July 21, 2013.
In the same year, Russian climbers Denis Veretenin and Evgenii Bashkirtcev conquered the Uli Biaho Tower's East Face using the Russian Roulette route from August 8 to 14, 2013.