Murray Arbeid
Murray Arbeid was a British fashion designer, known for his eveningwear. His notable clients included Princess Diana and Shirley Bassey. He once joked that if there were a Nobel Prize for creations in taffeta, he would have won it.
Early life
Arbeid was born in London, the son of East Enders Jack and Ida Arbeid. Jack Arbeid was a diamond cutter who had inherited a jewellery business and most of the family's friends were in the 'rag trade' – wholesaling and retailing clothes. During the war, like many children in vulnerable areas, Murray Arbeid was evacuated to Cornwall to escape the Blitz. Returning to London with a Cornish accent, he attended Cosway Street School in Marylebone before studying at Regent Street Polytechnic, and then moving on to the London Institute of Fashion to learn pattern cutting.Career beginnings
His first job was with a garment house in Wigmore Street, close to Oxford Street, where he earned 28 shillings and sixpence a week. In 1952, he was apprenticed to Michael Sherard, a member of the elite Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers and known for his occasion and evening wear. Joining the firm a year before the coronation of Queen Elizabeth meant Arbeid was thrown into a busy environment as Britain's high society ladies refurbished their wardrobes.At Michael Sherard, Arbeid was taught by Mme Raymond, who had once been an apprentice of Madeleine Vionnet, and later the skilled dressmaker Alice Edwards – both of whom had impeccable Paris contacts as well as expertise. Edwards, in particular, helped Arbeid to develop his customer manner.
Establishment of fashion house
Arbeid set up his own label when he was still in his mid 20s, renting space in George Street, close to Oxford Street. As his business prospered in the 1970s, he moved to Bond Street, sharing space with his partner the hat maker Frederick Fox. Later, Arbeid moved again – this time to the area round Sloane Square. Finally he would settle in Ebury Street, Belgravia.His lavish ready-to-wear evening gowns – he didn't do wedding dresses or daywear – sold particularly well in the United States, with further markets in Japan, Germany and France. In the United States, his clients included Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Lord & Taylor. Twice a year, he would cross the Atlantic with a trunk show to promote his collections to stores across the US.
In the UK, he had a substantial wholesale business, supplying gowns to major department stores such as Harrods and Harvey Nichols and small exclusive stores outside the capital. His typical client was older, moneyed and with a full calendar of engagements.