Michael Sherard
Michael Sherard was a British fashion designer and a member of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers, which represented the British couture industry in the wartime and post-war years. Operating his own label from the 1940s to 1960s, he is remembered primarily for his evening and occasion gowns. He also helped train future British designers, including Caroline Charles, and was later a design academic.
Early life and career
Michael Sherard was born Malcolm Henry Sherrard, recorded in portraits of his family now held by the National Portrait Gallery. Later he would change his professional name, but insist that he was not a couturier but a dressmaker. Eustace and Ida Sherrard had five other sons and lived in Kingston-upon-Thames, then part of the county of Surrey. Sherard's father was a City solicitor and his grandfather George C. Sherrard had been mayor of Kingston three times.Sherard was educated at Berkhamsted School, where one of his teachers developed his love of the classics and encouraged his interest in drawing and theatre. He refused to follow his father and study law and was instead enrolled at Westminster School of Art, graduating in 1931.
He showed his work to Norman Hartnell – already a leading name in London couture – who turned him down as an assistant, recommending that he go to Paris. With his first choice rejecting him, Sherard secured a role as assistant to Peter Russell, known for his no-nonsense manner and designs for country ladies. While the two were not natural soulmates, Sherard did learn the business practicalities of running a couture house, but the stress of his job led to a duodenal ulcer. He spent the war years in the Admiralty as an assistant in the trade division censoring cables.
Establishment of label
One of Peter Russell's couture clients, the opera singer Ruth Vincent, introduced Sherard to her son John Fraser. The two became business partners and the Michael Sherard showroom opened in 1945 at 24 Connaught Street, Marble Arch; much of the financial backing came from their families. When the business opened, Peter Russell – who had by now also lost his client Ruth Vincent to Norman Hartnell because of his temper – is said to have remarked that Sherard was: "the wrong side of Edgware Road".Although Sherard's salon was not in the best London location, his charm and attention to detail soon drew prestigious clients, including Margot Fonteyn, Margaret Lockwood, Phyllis Calvert and Gladys Cooper. One of his early collections was sold to Chicago department store Marshall Field's, a significant boost for his business and British couture's reputation. In 1948, he joined the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers – entrance required a vote from existing members – making him one of the leading names in London fashion design. Sherard not only created gowns for private clients, but also costumes for some 30 West End theatre productions, including The Mousetrap and The Reluctant Debutante, during this period.
His business had support from other members of the family, with his sister-in-law – referred to in a newspaper article simply as "Mrs Sherrard", the wife of his brother Peter – acting as his chief assistant, taking charge of the label's publicity and providing advice on collections.
By 1952, Sherard had accrued enough funds and reputation to move to a new salon in Curzon Street, Mayfair and he also lived in nearby Albany for two years, sharing a grand apartment at a stellar London address with Fraser and two dachshunds Hansel and Humperdinck; it was the location of many parties. The events surrounding the Coronation of Elizabeth II created more business for the firm, with some 40 assistants creating outfits for a growing clientele.