Grosseto


Grosseto is a city and a comune in the central Italian region of Tuscany, capital of the province of Grosseto. It is the most populous city of Maremma region and southern Tuscany.
Located at the center of the Maremma region, the city was born on the right bank of the Ombrone river, near the Tyrrhenian Sea. The first center raised in the Middle Ages, following the end of the ancient city of Rusellae. Since the 19th century has had a great economic and demographic development, which makes it an important city for services, agriculture and as a seaside resort.
The comune of Grosseto, with 82,284 inhabitants, includes the frazioni of Marina di Grosseto, Roselle, Principina a Mare, Principina Terra, Montepescali, Braccagni, Istia d'Ombrone, Batignano, Alberese and Rispescia.

History

The origins of Grosseto can be traced back to the High Middle Ages. It was first mentioned in 803 as a fief of the Counts Aldobrandeschi, in a document recording the assignment of St. George's Church to Ildebrando degli Aldobrandeschi, whose successors were counts of the Grossetana Mark until the end of the 12th century.
Grosseto steadily grew in importance, owing to the decline of Rusellae and Vetulonia until it was one of the principal Tuscan cities. In 1137 the city was besieged by German troops, led by Duke Heinrich X of Bavaria, sent by the emperor Lothair III to reinstate his authority over the Aldobrandeschi. In the following year the bishopric of Roselle was transferred to Grosseto.
In 1151, the citizens swore loyalty to the Republic of Siena, and in 1222 the Aldobrandeschi gave the Grossetani the right to have their own podestà, together with three councilors and consuls. In 1244 the city was reconquered by the Sienese, and its powers, together with all the Aldobrandeschi's imperial privileges, were transferred to Siena by order of the imperial vicar. Thereafter Grosseto shared the fortunes of Siena. It became an important stronghold, and the fortress, the walls and bastions can still to be seen.
In 1266 and in 1355, Grosseto tried in vain to win freedom from the overlordship of Siena. While Guelph and Ghibelline parties struggled for control of that city, Umberto and Aldobrandino Aldobrandeschi tried to regain Grosseto for their family. The Sienese armies were, however, victorious, and in 1259 they named a podestà from their city. But Grosseto gained its freedom and in the following year and fought alongside the Florentine forces in the Battle of Montaperti.
Over the next 80 years Grosseto was again occupied, ravaged, excommunicated by Pope Clement IV, besieged by emperor Louis IV and by the antipope Nicholas V in 1328, until it finally submitted to its more powerful neighbour, Siena. The pestilence of 1348 struck Grosseto hard and by 1369 its population had been reduced to some hundred families. Its territory, moreover, was frequently ravaged, notably in 1447 by Alfons V of Sicily and in 1455 by Jacopo Piccinino.
Sienese rule ended in 1559, when Charles V handed over the whole duchy to Cosimo I de Medici, first grand duke of Tuscany. In 1574 the construction of a line of defensive walls was begun, which are still well preserved today, while the surrounding swampy plain was drained. Grosseto, however, remained a minor town, with only 700 inhabitants at the beginning of the 18th century. Under the rule of the House of Lorraine, Grosseto flourished. It was given the title of capital of the new Maremma province. In 1943, the city was heavily bombed by the Allies. On 22 March 1944, the Maiano Lavacchio massacre took place into the countryside between Grosseto and Magliano in Toscana.

Geography

The city is located at the center of an alluvial plain known as the Piana Grossetana, where the Ombrone Valley meets the Tyrrhenian Sea. In the past, most of the plain was occupied by Lake Prile. The ancient coastal lake has almost completely disappeared following land reclamation work completed between the 18th and 20th centuries. Near the Roselle district, there are thermal springs similar to the nearby Terme di Saturnia. The Ombrone River flows through the city, first reaching Istia d'Ombrone and then passing through some of the city's hoods, before continuing toward its mouth, called Bocca d'Ombrone. The city's municipal territory includes three natural areas: the Diaccia Botrona swamp, the Maremma Regional Park, and the Formiche di Grosseto islands, part of the Tuscan Archipelago National Park. To the north-east of the city lies the Poggio di Moscona, a hill 317 meters high, which overlooks the city from above.

Climate

Grosseto has a Mediterranean climate with very mild wet winters and very hot dry summers. On average there are 25 nights a year where the low reaches or dips below freezing but there are also 41 days where the high surpasses. Average annual temperatures hover around, with averages around in January and close to in July. Precipitations are concentrated mainly in autumn, sometimes in the form of thunderstorms. The precipitations are extimated around 600 mm annually, distributed over 60 to 70 days. The city suffered severe damage during the Grosseto flood of November 4, 1966, and remained marginally affected by the Maremma Grossetana flood of November 2012. Of all the italian capital cities, Grosseto is one with the highest average number of sunny days per year. Extended periods of sunny days are frequent, especially during the spring and summer seasons, but sometimes also in winter. Fog occurs a few days a year.

Government

Subdivisions

The Municipality of Grosseto was subdivided into eight districts from 1977 to 2011.
Former districtNeighbourhoods
Circoscrizione 1
Barbanella
Barbanella, Barbaruta, Casotto dei Pescatori, Cernaia, Marrucheto, Pollino, Posto Raccolta Quadrupedi, Rugginosa
Circoscrizione 2
Centro
Centro storico, Porta Nuova, Porta Vecchia, Borgo Corsica, Borgo Tripoli, Alberino, Crespi, San Martino, Casalecci
Circoscrizione 3
Gorarella
Gorarella, Pianetto, Principina Terra, Querciolo, San Lorenzo, Trappola
Circoscrizione 4
Pace
Sugherella, Commendone, Pace, Poggione, Villaggio Curiel, Villaggio Europa
Circoscrizione 5
Alberese-Rispescia
Alberese, Rispescia, Grancia, Ottava Zona
Circoscrizione 6
Marina
Marina di Grosseto, Principina a Mare
Circoscrizione 7
Braccagni-Montepescali
Braccagni, Montepescali, Acquisti, Madonnino, Versegge
Circoscrizione 8
Istia-Batignano-Roselle
Batignano, Istia d'Ombrone, Roselle, Nomadelfia, Vallerotana

Frazioni

Alberese

Alberese, located south-east of the capital, is the heart of the Natural Park of Maremma. The name is also extended to the surrounding rural areas which go from the first foothills of the hinterland hills to the sea through the northern slopes of the Uccellina Mountains.

Batignano

Of uncertain origins, Batignano developed in the Medieval period, around the castle which controlled the outlet of the road towards Siena on the plain of Grosseto and some lead and silver mines. It was a feud of the Aldobrandeschi and in 1213 belonged to Manto da Grosseto. In the 14th century, it then passed under the dominion of Siena, hosting many immigrants from Corsica, and so in the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. In 1738 it was reunited with the comune of Grosseto.

Braccagni

Once being simply an appendix of Montepescali, Braccagni is seen today more independently as it is believed to be the nodal point of the economy of the area. The railway station, the Aurelia, many activities which have developed in the last few years, new habitations, these have all created its new identity as a modern town, in continuous evolution.

Istia d'Ombrone

Istia d'Ombrone is a town situated about east of the capital. The center of Istia emerged as a fortified settlement along the valley of the river Ombrone and it was owned by the bishops of Roselle since 862.

Marina di Grosseto

Marina di Grosseto is a famous tourist destination located from Grosseto; it is an important seaside resort in Maremma. Once a fishing village, it is known for its hilly hinterland, rich in macchia and wide beaches overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, with a vast pine forest that extends from Punta Ala to Alberese.

Montepescali

Montepescali is a small town of medieval origins. The site, from which the scenic panorama of the coastal strip and the Tuscan Archipelago up to Corsica can be seen, is also known as "Terrace or balcony of the Maremma".

Principina a Mare

Principina a Mare is a seaside resort. The center, sparsely populated land in winter, consists primarily of houses of holidaymakers, hotels, high class and a camp category average. However, the location is quite popular due to its proximity to the mouth of the river Ombrone and the Natural Park of Maremma.

Principina Terra

The village of Principina Terra is located south-west of the capital city, almost halfway between the city center and the seaside resorts of Marina di Grosseto and Principina a Mare. The area surrounding the village was washed from the shores of ancient Lake Prile.

Rispescia

Rispescia is a modern residential area, located about south-east of the capital, near the Natural Park of Maremma and the frazione of Alberese.

Roselle

Roselle, in Latin Rusellae, now a municipal frazione of Grosseto, was once the main city in the area. Of Etruscan origin, it was built on a hill that offered protection and commanded all the nearby valley. The extent of its dominion is not clear, but probably at its peak included most of the Vetulonia territory. The city's splendour ended in 294 BCE, when, according to Livy, the Roman Republic conquered it. After the end of the Roman Empire, in the 5th century, Roselle was still the most important centre of what is now southern Tuscany. Its gradual decline began in 1138, when the diocesan seat was moved to Grosseto.
Etruscan ruins had been discovered in Roselle, including cyclopean walls, in circumference, and sulphur baths, which in the last century were restored for medicinal uses. There was formerly an amphitheatre.

Demographics

Grosseto's historical demographic instability is due to numerous historical and social factors, including malaria, which was widespread in the swamps of the Grosseto Plain. Before the Black Death of 1348, the city had an estimated population of 7 000 to 8 000 people. The worst period, when the population estimated was of 600 people, was reached during the House of Medici rule, following the fortification of the city. Grosseto's current demographic growth began only in the 19th century, following the intense land reclamation works concluded during the Fascist regime. At the time of Italian unification, the city, with approximately 4 700 inhabitants, was still suffering from the negative effects of malaria. By the early 20th century, the population had already doubled. The growth continued and continues exponentially thanks to the arrival of numerous immigrants, first from northeastern Italy, and in the following decades from other regions, especially southern Italy.

Religion

Near the urban area is located Nomadelfia, a catholic community founded by the priest Zeno Saltini in 1948.
The Italian Apostolic Church was founded in Grosseto in 1927; the city is home of the national centre.

Economy

The city's economy is based on services, agriculture and seaside tourism. In 2023 the city recorded more than one million tourists presences, while the nearby town of Castiglione della Pescaia more than 1,5. Grosseto is the Italian municipality with the highest number of agritourism, with about 239 destinations. Italian tourists come from cities such as Arezzo, Siena and Florence and from northern Italy, while international tourism is mainly made up of Germans, Austrians, Swiss and Dutch. Besides the coast, the city is also frequented by tourists for the services offered, such as shopping centers and health facilities.

Culture

Literature

Andrea da Grosseto was born in Grosseto in the first half of the 1200's. He is very important in Italian literature, because he is considered the first writer in the Italian language. Andrea da Grosseto translated from Latin the Moral Treaties of Albertano of Brescia, in 1268. His texts were written in the Italian language, without too many redundancies and constructions, words and typical ways of speech of the vernacular and the dialect. The writer intended to not utilise his own Grossetan dialect, but to use a general "Italian national language". In fact he twice refers to the vernacular which he uses defining it italico. So Andrea da Grosseto was the first to intend to use vernacular as a national unifying language from the north to the south of the entire Peninsula.
An important writer was Luciano Bianciardi, one of the most important writers of the italian literature of the second half of the last century.

Museums

Cinema

Grosseto and Maremma have been settings for numerous works of fiction and movies, including the novels and associated films, such as The Easy Life with Vittorio Gassman; La vita agra, from the novel of the same name by Luciano Bianciardi, with Ugo Tognazzi; An Ideal Place To Kill directed by Umberto Lenzi; In viaggio con papà, with Alberto Sordi; Nothing Left to Do But Cry, with Massimo Troisi and Roberto Benigni; It's Happening Tomorrow ; Viola bacia tutti with Asia Argento; The Talented Mr. Ripley with Matt Damon and Jude Law; Emma sono io ; Roberto Benigni's Pinocchio; Manuale d'amore 3 with Robert De Niro and Monica Bellucci; Swiss movie Summer Games; Margins, and some Leonardo Pieraccioni's movies. Famous Italian actress Elsa Martinelli and actor Luigi Pistilli were both born in Grosseto. Actress Laura Morante was born in Santa Fiora, and director Umberto Lenzi in Massa Marittima, both in the province of Grosseto.

Cuisine

Is popular the traditional Maremman Cousine.
Schiaccia alla pala and Schiaccia con cipolle e acciughe are typical breads of the city of Grosseto.

Main sights

The Medicean Walls

The walls were commissioned by Cosimo I de Medici in 1564, in order to replace those from the 12th-14th centuries, as part of his policy of making Grosseto a stronghold to protect his southern border. The design was by Baldassarre Lanci, and construction began in 1565. Until 1757 the exterior was surrounded by a ditch with an earthen moat. There were two main gates: Porta Nuova on the north and Porta Reale on the south.
The walls are now used as a public park and walking area.

Religious architecture

Cathedral

The Romanesque cathedral, the main monument of the city, is named for its patron St. Lawrence, and was begun at the end of the 13th century, by architect Sozzo Rustichini of Siena. Erected over the earlier church of Santa Maria Assunta, it was only finished in the 15th century.
The façade of alternate layers of white and black marble is Romanesque in style, but is almost entirely the result of 16th century and 1816–1855 restorations: it retains decorative parts of the originary buildings, including Evangelists' symbols. The layout consists of a Latin cross, with transept and apse. The interior has a nave with two aisles, separated by cruciform pilasters. The main artworks are a wondrously carved baptismal font from 1470–1474 and the Madonna delle Grazie by Matteo di Giovanni.
The campanile was finished in 1402, and restored in 1911.

Churches in the city centre

  • Church of San Francesco. Situated on the square with the same name, it was built in the 13th century, initially a Benedictine, later Franciscan convent. The complex underwent several restorations and reconstructions: the bell was rebuilt in the first half of the 20th century. Very characteristic is the wooden tabernacle that stands on the front and inside there are works of art from various historical periods. At the center of the cloister stands the characteristic Pozzo della Bufala in travertine; another well is located in the square outside the church.
  • Convent of Clarisse. Located on strada Vinzaglio, the convent is annexed to the Church of Bigi. The convent of Clarisse and the church of Bigi are now deconsecrated. The entire complex is characterized by the probable medieval origins, which was followed by a series of restorations in Baroque style in the 17th century. Today the convent hosts the Museolab Città di Grosseto and the university.
  • Church of San Pietro. The oldest religious building in town, on Corso Carducci.
  • Church of Misericordia. It belonged to various religious orders during the following centuries, before moving on brotherhood in the early decades of the 19th century. In the past, there were several well-preserved works of art currently on display in the section on Sacred Art of the Archaeological and Art Museum of Maremma.

Churches outside the city walls

Abbeys

Civil architecture

Palazzi and other buildings

Within the walls of Grosseto are the following buildings:
Outside the walls of Grosseto are the following buildings:

Theatres

  • Teatro degli Industri, located on Via Mazzini, it was built in the 19th century. It is one of the main sites of the culture of Grosseto.
  • Teatro Moderno, a modern theatre located outside the city walls. It was used for the trial against Francesco Schettino in 2014–15.

Sculptures and memorials

Wells

  • Pozzo dello Spedale, made during the 15th century, it is located in the Piazza San Francesco in front of the right lateral side of the church of San Francesco.
  • Pozzo della Bufala, located in the courtyard of the cloister of San Francesco, was built by the Medici to replace an existing well to supply water to the men who lived in the convent.
  • Pozzo della Fortezza, located in the Piazza d'Armi inside the Fortezza bastion that surrounds the fortified Citadel, it was built in the 16th century for supply water of the guards stationed there.

Others

Sports

Grosseto has a long tradition in sports, making the city an international hub. The most popular activities are football, baseball and athletics.
The city is home to two baseball teams that play in Serie A: BSC Grosseto 1952 and BBC Grosseto. Home games are played at the Stadio Roberto Jannella.
The Unione Sportiva Grosseto Football Club was founded in 1912. It has participated in Serie B since the 2007–2008 season. Hosts home games at the Stadio Olimpico Carlo Zecchini.
Another popular sport is athletics; the city hosted numerous important events, such as World Athletics U20 Championships or 2010 Italian Athletics Championships. National and international events take place on the running track of the Stadio Carlo Zecchini.

Education

Elementary and middle schools are divided into seven institutes. Some of the city's high schools are situated inside a student campus, called Cittadella dello Studente, South Grosseto, which hosts thousands of students and offers them services such as sport venues and student accommodations. The city is home to a university center, called Polo Universitario Grossetano, founded in 1998.
The Misericordia Hospital, in the Sugherella neighborhood, is home to the International Robotic School, founded in 2004 by Pier Cristoforo Giulianotti. First training center of robotic surgery in Italy and one of the most important in the world, it was the first in Europe to broadcast fully recorded surgeries. It collaborates with international university centers, including the University of Illinois Chicago.

Transportation

Trains

The city is served by the Pisa-Rome railway line connecting Genoa to the Capital and serves as the terminus of trains on the single track branch line to Siena.
Here is the list of railway stations in the city of Grosseto:

Public transport

Until 2010, urban public transport was managed by the company RAMA, after the service was owned by Tiemme Toscana Mobilità, one of the companies of the consortium ONE Scarl to accomplish the contract stipulated with the Regione Toscana for the public transport in the 2018-2019 period. Intercity buses depart from the main bus station in Piazza Marconi. There are also several bus services going from the city to Florence and other cities and towns. A network of urban bus routes also operates in Grosseto, and the bus station serves as an interchange point between these, the intercity routes and extra-urban routes which extend into the rest of the Province of Grosseto. Since 1 November 2021, the public local transport is operated by Autolinee Toscane.

Port

The city has a modern tourist dock opened in 2004 in the seaside resort of Marina di Grosseto, at the mouth of the San Rocco Canal. For passenger traffic in the medium range, the main port is Porto Santo Stefano, with ferry for the islands of Giglio and Giannutri.

Airport

Grosseto is served by Grosseto Baccarini Airport, located west of the city. It is the biggest airport of Tuscany, the biggest military air base in Italy and has an international importance as a base for Nato missions in Europe. It is also a commercial airport by civilian charter flights and private aircraft, and has a terminal to accommodate international passengers.
With regard to domestic and international flights, the airports of reference are the Galileo Galilei Airport of Pisa and Rome-Fiumicino Airport.

Highways

The city is connected to Rome by the Via Aurelia highway which rejoins to the Grande Raccordo Anulare for connections with southern Italy, to Livorno by the Variante Aurelia highway, which rejoins the Autostrada A12 for connections with north-western Italy and to Siena by the Grosseto-Siena highway, which rejoins the Siena-Florence motorway link for connections with northern Italy and constitutes the first section of the European Route E78 Grosseto-Fano for connections with north-eastern Italy and the Adriatic coast.

Notable people

International relations

Twin towns – sister cities

Grosseto is twinned with: