USA Climbing


USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. As a 5013 non-profit, they promote Sport Climbing which comprises three competition disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing, in elite, youth and collegiate formats.
USA Climbing receives sanctioning and is recognized by the following organizations: the International Federation of Sport Climbing, the International Olympic Committee, and the United States Olympic & Paralympic Committee.

Competition history

Below is a brief timeline of American competition climbing history:
  • 1988 & 1989 – Stand-alone World Cup events at Snowbird, Utah, were organized by UIAA and the American Alpine Club.
  • 1994 – Junior National Championship organized by the American Sport Climbers Federation is created.
  • 1998 – The ASCF became the Junior Competition Climbing Association.
  • 2002 – The JCCA expanded to include adult competitors and changed its name again to the United States Competition Climbing Association.
  • 2003 – USCCA decided to rename the organization to what it is called today, USA Climbing.
  • 2004 – USAC took over operations of the American Bouldering Series.

    Competition structure

Elite

Any eligible climber aged 16 and older who meets the USAC qualification criteria may compete at Elite Nationals. There are no Regional or Divisional competitions for Elite competitors. The winners in each gender/event at Elite Nationals are recognized as the National Champions of the United States. However, a non-US citizen cannot be the National Champion of the US. If a non-US citizen wins any gender/event, the next highest-placed US citizen in that gender/event is declared the National Champion.

Youth

Youth climbers are subdivided into 5 age groups. As of the 2024–25 season, USA Climbing no longer categorizes youth athletes using the Jr, A, B, C, D system. The age ranges are based on how old the competitor will be by the end of the season, not their current age:
  • U20
  • U19
  • U17
  • U15
  • U13
The US is subdivided into 9 Divisions and 18 Regions. Anyone may compete in local competitions. USA Climbing members who have attended at least two local competitions and place in the top 26 in their region may compete at their respective Regional Championships. The top 13 competitors in each gender/category at Regionals receive an invitation to compete at their respective Divisional Championships. The top 6 competitors in each gender/category at the Divisional Championships receive an invitation to compete at the National Championships. The top four climbers in each gender/category/event at the National Championships are considered to be the U.S. Youth National Team. Youth on the National Teams for the U19 and U17 categories are eligible to compete at the Youth Pan American and Youth World Championships.
Starting with the 2024-2025 season:
USA Climbing adopted U13, U15, U17, U19, and U20 category names based on birth year, doing away with the Jr/A/B/C/D terms. This restructuring was driven by a desire to align with international standards and IFSC changes, especially for youth progression and eligibility for international events like Youth World Championships.

Collegiate

Provides access for undergraduate or graduate students that are currently enrolled at a college or university to compete in bouldering, lead and speed climbing.

Adaptive

Adaptive provides access for athletes with physical disabilities to compete in both bouldering and lead/top rope climbing.
Categories included in Adaptive are open to those with physical disabilities: Neurological / Physical Disability, Visual Impairment, Upper Extremity Amputee, Lower Extremity, Amputee, Seated, Youth.

Elite bouldering

The following are the results for bouldering at Elite National Championship level.

Male

Female

Elite lead

The following are the results for lead at Elite National Championship level

Male

Female

Elite speed

Starting with the 2021 Speed National Championships, the US competition format was changed to match the IFSC speed climbing competition format. Prior to 2021, US Speed Climbing National Champions were determined by the fastest climber to finish the speed route. As of 2021, US Speed National Champions were determined by the winners of the IFSC knockout format.

Male

Female

Current US speed climbing records

Starting in 2023, USA Climbing adopted the same criteria as the Elite category to officially recognize Speed climbing records for Youth age groups. One key criterion is the use of an officially recognized electronic timing system. Historically, youth records were maintained for developmental purposes without official standards. Now, official Youth speed climbing records can only be set at specific events: USAC Youth Qualifying Events, USAC Youth Regional Championships, USAC Youth Divisional Championships, USAC Youth National Championships, IFSC Youth Pan American Championships, IFSC Youth World Championships, and other USAC or IFSC sanctioned events in which youth age groups compete. Records are not kept for youth age groups C and D because the speed climbing routes vary at each competition.
Men's15 meter10 meter
Time AthleteTime Athlete
Elite4.74Sam Watson3.95John Brosler
Junior5.75Logan Minor4.03Noah Bratschi
Youth A5.32Zach Hammer4.34John Brosler
Youth B6.18Sam Watson5.03Michael Retoff

Women's15 meter10 meter
Time AthleteTime Athlete
Elite6.38Emma Hunt5.64Claire Buhrfeind
Junior7.55Emma Hunt5.80Piper Kelly
Youth A7.84Sophia Curcio5.88Grace McKeehan
Youth B7.96Jojo Chi6.33Sidney Trinidad

History of the US speed climbing record

Beginning in 2019, USA Climbing established specific criteria for setting official National Records in the Elite Speed Climbing category. As such, the National Records below for the Elite category have been officially recognized by USA Climbing.
DateTime AthleteLocationCompetition
April 28, 20235.02Sam WatsonSeoul, South Korea2023 IFSC World Cup
May 20, 20225.20John BroslerSalt Lake City, Utah2022 IFSC World Cup
May 28, 20215.60John BroslerSalt Lake City, Utah2021 IFSC World Cup
March 28, 20215.62John BroslerMemphis, TennesseeUSA Climbing Team Trials Invitational
March 28, 20215.85Noah BratschiMemphis, TennesseeUSA Climbing Team Trials Invitational
January 20, 20195.99John BroslerSalt Lake City, UtahUSA Climbing Combined Invitational

DateTime AthleteLocationCompetition
August 10, 20236.67Emma HuntBern, Switzerland2023 IFSC World Championships
July 2, 20236.68Emma HuntVillars, Switzerland2023 IFSC World Cup
May 7, 20236.79Emma HuntJakarta, Indonesia2023 IFSC World Cup
April 28, 20236.82Emma HuntSeoul, Korea2023 IFSC World Cup
Sept 10, 20226.84Emma HuntEdinburgh, Scotland2022 IFSC World Cup
July 2, 20217.19Emma HuntVillars, Switzerland2021 IFSC World Cup
July 2, 20217.43Emma HuntVillars, Switzerland2021 IFSC World Cup
May 28, 20217.52Emma HuntSalt Lake City, Utah2021 IFSC World Cup
March 29, 20217.56Emma HuntMemphis, TennesseeUSA Climbing Team Trials Invitational
March 29, 20217.76Emma HuntMemphis, TennesseeUSA Climbing Team Trials Invitational
March 29, 20217.95Emma HuntMemphis, TennesseeUSA Climbing Team Trials Invitational
March 28, 20218.04Emma HuntMemphis, TennesseeUSA Climbing Team Trials Invitational
March 1, 20208.05Emma HuntLos Angeles, CaliforniaIFSC Pan American Championships

Elite team (current)

The athletes who represent the United States in International competition events.
  • Bouldering & Lead National Team – Men
  • * Colin Duffy
  • * Sean Bailey
  • * Nathaniel Coleman
  • * Zach Galla
  • * Jesse Grupper
  • * Dillon Countryman
  • Bouldering & Lead National Team – Women
  • * Natalia Grossman
  • * Brooke Raboutou
  • * Cloe Coscoy
  • * Kylie Cullen
  • * Anastasia Sanders
  • * Adriene Clark
  • Bouldering National Team – Men
  • * Colin Duffy
  • * Sean Bailey
  • * Dillon Countryman
  • * Ross Fulkerson
  • * Luke Muehring
  • Bouldering National Team – Women
  • * Natalia Grossman
  • * Brooke Raboutou
  • * Cloe Coscoy
  • * Anastasia Sanders
  • * Kylie Cullen
  • Speed National Team – Men
  • *Noah Bratschi
  • * John Brosler
  • * Sam Watson
  • * Merritt Ernsberger
  • * Zach Hammer
  • * Darren Skolnik
  • * Quinn O'francia
  • Speed National Team – Women
  • * Callie Close
  • * Emma Hunt
  • * Piper Kelly
  • * Olivia Ma
  • * Liberty Runnels
  • * Sophia Curcio
  • Lead National Team – Men
  • * Colin Duffy
  • * Jesse Grupper
  • * Sean Bailey
  • * Hugo Hoyer
  • * Luke Muehring
  • Lead National Team – Women
  • * Natalia Grossman
  • * Brooke Raboutou
  • * Anastasia Sanders
  • * Kyra Condie
  • * Quinn Mason