Shirt


A shirt is a cloth garment for the upper body.
Originally an undergarment worn exclusively by men, it has become, in American English, a catch-all term for a broad variety of upper-body garments and undergarments. In British English, a shirt is more specifically a garment with a collar, sleeves with cuffs, and a full vertical opening with buttons or snaps. A shirt can also be worn with a necktie under the shirt collar.

History

The world's oldest preserved garment, discovered by Flinders Petrie, is a "highly sophisticated" linen shirt from a First Dynasty Egyptian tomb at Tarkan, dated to : "the shoulders and sleeves have been finely pleated to give form-fitting trimness while allowing the wearer room to move. The small fringe formed during weaving along one edge of the cloth has been placed by the designer to decorate the neck opening and side seam."
The shirt was an item of clothing that only men could wear as underwear, until the twentieth century. Although the women's chemise was a closely related garment to the men's, it is the men's garment that became the modern shirt. In the Middle Ages, it was a plain, undyed garment worn next to the skin and under regular garments. In medieval artworks, the shirt is only visible on humble characters, such as shepherds, prisoners, and penitents. In the seventeenth century, men's shirts were allowed to show, with much the same erotic import as visible underwear today. In the eighteenth century, instead of underpants, men "relied on the long tails of shirts... to serve the function of drawers. Eighteenth-century costume historian Joseph Strutt believed that men who did not wear shirts to bed were indecent. Even as late as 1879, a visible shirt with nothing over it was considered improper.
The shirt sometimes had frills at the neck or cuffs. In the sixteenth century, men's shirts often had embroidery, and sometimes frills or lace at the neck and cuffs and through the eighteenth-century long neck frills, or jabots, were fashionable. Coloured shirts began to appear in the early nineteenth century, as can be seen in the paintings of George Caleb Bingham. They were considered casual wear, for lower-class workers only, until the twentieth century. For a gentleman, "to wear a sky-blue shirt was unthinkable in 1860, but had become standard by 1920 and, in 1980, constituted the most commonplace event."
European and American women began wearing shirts in 1860, when the Garibaldi shirt, a red shirt as worn by the freedom fighters under Giuseppe Garibaldi, was popularized by Empress Eugénie of France. At the end of the nineteenth century, the Century Dictionary described an ordinary shirt as "of cotton, with linen bosom, wristbands and cuffs prepared for stiffening with starch, the collar and wristbands being usually separate and adjustable".
The first documented appearance of the expression "To give the shirt off one's back", happened in 1771 as an idiom that indicates extreme desperation or generosity and is still in common usage. In 1827 Hannah Montague, a housewife in upstate New York, invents the detachable collar. Tired of constantly washing her husband's entire shirt when only the collar needed it, she cut off his collars and devised a way of attaching them to the neckband after washing. It was not until the 1930s that collar stays became popular, although these early accessories resembled tie clips more than the small collar stiffeners available today. They connected the collar points to the necktie, keeping them in place.

Types

  • Aloha shirt
  • Camp shirt – a loose, straight-cut, short sleeved shirt or blouse with a simple placket front-opening and a "camp collar".
  • Dress shirt – shirt with a formal collar, a full-length opening at the front from the collar to the hem, and sleeves with cuffs
  • White shirt – usually dress shirt which is white in colour
  • * Dinner shirt – a shirt specifically made to be worn with male evening wear, e.g. a black tie or white tie.
  • * Guayabera – an embroidered dress shirt with four pockets.
  • Poet shirt – a loose-fitting shirt or blouse with full bishop sleeves, usually with large frills on the front and on the cuffs.
  • T-shirt – also "tee shirt", a casual shirt without a collar or buttons, made of a stretchy, finely knit fabric, usually cotton, and usually short-sleeved. Originally worn under other shirts, it is now a common shirt for everyday wear in some countries.
  • * Long-sleeved T-shirt – a T-shirt with long sleeves that extend to cover the arms.
  • * Ringer T-shirt – tee with a separate piece of fabric sewn onto the collar and sleeve hems.
  • *Raglan T-shirt – a T-shirt with a raglan sleeve; a sleeve that extends in one piece fully to the collar, leaving a diagonal seam from underarm to collarbone.
  • * Halfshirt – a high-hemmed T-shirt, typically falling between the bottom of the sternum and navel.
  • * Sleeveless shirt – a shirt manufactured without sleeves, or one whose sleeves have been cut off, also called a tank top
  • **A-shirt or vest or singlet – essentially a sleeveless shirt with large armholes and a large neck hole, often worn by labourers or athletes for increased movability.
  • ** Camisole – woman's undershirt with narrow straps, or a similar garment worn alone. Also referred to as a cami, shelf top, spaghetti straps or strappy top
  • Polo shirt – a pullover soft collar short-sleeved shirt with an abbreviated button placket at the neck and a longer back than front.
  • * Rugby shirt – a long-sleeved polo shirt, traditionally of rugged construction in thick cotton or wool, but often softer today
  • * Henley shirt – a collarless polo shirt
  • Baseball shirt – usually distinguished by a three-quarters sleeve, team insignia, and flat waist seam
  • Sweatshirt – long-sleeved athletic shirt of heavier material, with or without hood
  • Tunic – primitive shirt, distinguished by two-piece construction. Initially a men's garment, is normally seen in modern times being worn by women
  • Shirtwaist – historically a woman's tailored shirt cut like a man's dress shirt; in contemporary usage, a woman's dress cut like a men's dress shirt to the waist, then extended into dress length at the bottom
  • Nightshirt – often oversized, ruined or inexpensive light cloth undergarment shirt for sleeping.
  • Halter top – a shoulderless, sleeveless garment for women. It is mechanically analogous to an apron with a string around the back of the neck and across the lower back holding it in place.
  • Top shirt – a long-sleeved collarless polo shirt
  • Heavy shirt – a shirt made with heavier fabric
  • Onesie or diaper shirt – a shirt for infants which is buttoned in the front between the legs
  • Tube top or boob tube – a shoulderless, sleeveless "tube" that wraps the torso not reaching higher than the armpit, staying in place by elasticity or by a single strap that is attached to the front of the tube
  • Overshirt- a heavier type of shirt that can be worn over the shirt as a jacket.
  • Thousand-miler shirt - historically a light brown colored shirt worn predominantly by American travelling salesmen in first half of 20th century and known as a thousand-miler because it did not show dirt from long business trips on the road. Also a dark shirt or one made of heavy serviceable fabric as worn by sailors or railway workers especially during the steam age.
  • Punishment shirts were special shirts made for the condemned, either those cursed supernaturally, such as the poisoned shirt that killed Creusa, the Shirt of Nessus used to kill Hercules, those used to execute people in ancient Rome, such as the Tunica molesta, and those used in church heresy trials such as the Sanbenito

    Parts of shirt

Many terms are used to describe and differentiate types of shirts and their construction. The smallest differences may have significance to a cultural or occupational group. Recently, it has become common to use tops as a form of advertisement. Many of these distinctions apply to other upper-body garments, such as coats and sweaters.

Shoulders and arms

Sleeves

Shirts may:
  • have no covering of the shoulders or arms – a tube top
  • have only shoulder straps, such as spaghetti straps
  • cover the shoulders, but without sleeves
  • have shoulderless sleeves, short or long, with or without shoulder straps, that expose the shoulders, but cover the rest of the arm from the biceps and triceps down to at least the elbow
  • have short sleeves, varying from cap sleeves to half sleeves, with some having quarter-length sleeves
  • have three-quarter-length sleeves
  • have long sleeves

    Cuffs

Shirts with long sleeves may further be distinguished by the cuffs:
  • no buttons – a closed placket cuff
  • buttons – single or multiple. A single button or pair aligned parallel with the cuff hem is considered a button cuff. Multiple buttons aligned perpendicular to the cuff hem, or parallel to the placket constitute a barrel cuff.
  • buttonholes designed for cufflinks
  • * a French cuff, where the end half of the cuff is folded over the cuff itself and fastened with a cufflink. This type of cuff has four buttons and a short placket.
  • * more formally, a link cuff – fastened like a French cuff, except is not folded over, but instead hemmed, at the edge of the sleeve.
  • asymmetrical designs, such as one-shoulder, one-sleeve or with sleeves of different lengths.

    Lower hem

  • hanging to the waist
  • leaving the belly button area bare. See halfshirt.
  • covering the crotch
  • covering part of the legs or as a dress ).
  • going to the floor

    Body

  • vertical opening on the front side, all the way down, with buttons or zipper. When fastened with buttons, this opening is often called the placket front.
  • similar opening, but in back.
  • left and right front side not separable, put on over the head; with regard to upper front side opening:
  • * V-shaped permanent opening on the top of the front side
  • * no opening at the upper front side
  • * vertical opening on the upper front side with buttons or zipper
  • ** men's shirts are usually buttoned on the right whereas women's are usually buttoned on the left.