Kumejima-tsumugi

is the Ryukyuan craft of silk cloth practised in Kumejima, Okinawa Prefecture. is the oldest type of in Japan, out of the approximately two hundred forms of, and is the oldest fabric. It is recognised as one of the Important Intangible Cultural Properties of Japan.

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History

Silk production has been practiced in Kumejima since the 15th century, after a local, having studied sericulture in Ming Dynasty China, transmitted the techniques. Mulberry plants, the primary foodstuff of silkworms, is said to grow particularly well on the island.
By the 17th century, formed part of the tribute paid to the Ryūkyū Kings, and it was transported to Edo via the Satsuma Domain.

Production

Silk floss is extracted from silkworm cocoons and spun by hand into yarn. It is then dyed with the technique, using indigenous plant dyes and a mud mordant to give it its characteristic black-brown colouring; the plants used are the guru, techika, or Japanese persimmon, and, or cotton tree hibiscus. Finally it is woven with a loom, and fulled by block.

Intangible Cultural Property

In 2004, the Kumejima Kasuri Technique Preservation Society was founded, and was designated one of the Important Intangible Cultural Properties of Japan.