Gyalzen Norbu
Gyalzen Norbu was also known as Gyaltsen Norbu, and Gyalgen Norbu, he made the first ascent of Manaslu whilst climbing with a party of Japanese mountaineers in 1956. He became the first person to climb two eight-thousanders: Makalu in 1955 and Manaslu in 1956.
Eight-thousanders
Gyalzen Norbu took part in the French Himalayan expedition to Makalu in 1955 as Sirdar. The team made the first ascent of the mountain on 15 May 1955, Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy were the first to reach the summit. The following day and Gyalzen Norbu reached the summit. Another four French members of the team summitted on 17 May.He climbed on Manaslu with Japanese parties in every year from 1952-1956 and he was Sirdar for the Japanese expedition in 1956. The 1956 expedition leader Maki Yūkō, speaking of Gyalzen, expressed the view that "being head of the Sherpas he was treated as one of the climbing party" and he was one of the two people in the first team to attempt the summit. On 9 May he and made the first ascent of the mountain.
In 1956 he was awarded a Tiger Badge by the Himalayan Club for his part in the 1955 French expedition to Makalu, his 'Himalayan Club Number' was 145.