Eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation with summits that exceed in elevation above sea level and are sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks as measured by topographic prominence. There is no formally agreed-upon definition of prominence, however, and at times the UIAA has considered whether the list of 8,000-metre peaks should be expanded to 20 peaks by including the major satellite peaks of the canonical 14 eight-thousanders. All of the Earth's eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits lie in the altitude range known as the death zone, where atmospheric oxygen pressure is insufficient to sustain human life for extended periods of time.
From 1950 to 1964, all 14 of the eight-thousanders were first summited by expedition climbers in the summer season ; from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter season. As measured by a variety of statistical techniques, the deadliest eight-thousander is Annapurna I, with one death for every three summiters, followed by K2 and Nanga Parbat, and then Dhaulagiri and Kangchenjunga.
The first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders was the Italian climber Reinhold Messner in 1986, who did not use any supplementary oxygen. In 2010, Edurne Pasaban, a Basque Spanish mountaineer, became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders, though with the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2011, Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2013, South Korean Kim Chang-ho set a speed record by climbing all 14 eight-thousanders in 7 years and 310 days, without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In July 2023, Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa set a speed record of 92 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, with supplementary oxygen. In July 2022, Sanu Sherpa became the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice, which he did from 2006 to 2022.
Climbing history
First ascents
The first recorded attempt on an eight-thousander was when Albert F. Mummery, Geoffrey Hastings and J. Norman Collie tried to climb Nanga Parbat in 1895. The attempt failed when Mummery and two Gurkhas, Ragobir Thapa and Goman Singh, died in an avalanche.The first successful ascent of an eight-thousander was by the French climbers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who reached the summit of Annapurna on 3 June 1950 using expedition climbing techniques as part of the 1950 French Annapurna expedition. Due to its location in Tibet, Shishapangma was the last eight-thousander to be ascended for the first time, which was completed by a Chinese team led by Xu Jing in 1964.
The first winter ascent of an eight-thousander was by a Polish team led by Andrzej Zawada on Mount Everest, with Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki reaching the summit on 17 February 1980; all-Polish teams would complete nine of the first fourteen winter ascents of eight-thousanders. The final eight-thousander to be climbed in winter was K2, whose summit was ascended by a 10-person Nepalese team on 16 January 2021.
Only two climbers have completed the first ascent of more than one eight-thousander, Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger. Buhl's summit of Nanga Parbat in 1953 is notable as being the only solo first-ascent of an eight-thousander. The Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka is noted for creating over ten new routes on various eight-thousander mountains. Italian climber Simone Moro made the first winter ascent of four eight-thousanders, while three Polish climbers have each made three first winter ascents of an eight-thousander, Maciej Berbeka, Krzysztof Wielicki and Jerzy Kukuczka.
All 14
On 16 October 1986, Italian Reinhold Messner became the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders. In 1987, Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka became the second person to accomplish this feat. Messner summited each of the 14 peaks without the aid of bottled oxygen, a feat that was only repeated by the Swiss Erhard Loretan nine years later in 1995.On 17 May 2010, Spanish climber Edurne Pasaban became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders. In August 2011, Austrian climber Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to climb the 14 eight-thousanders without the use of supplementary oxygen.
The first couple and team to summit all 14 eight-thousanders were the Italians Nives Meroi, and her husband on 11 May 2017. The couple climbed alpine style, without the use of supplementary oxygen or other support.
On 22 May 2024, Nepali guide Kami Rita summitted Everest for the 30th time, also becoming the first-ever person to climb an eight-thousander 41 times. In July 2022, Sanu Sherpa became the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice. He started with Cho Oyu in 2006, and completed the double by summiting Gasherbrum II in July 2022.
On 20 May 2013, South Korean climber Kim Chang-ho set a new speed record of climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, without the use of supplementary oxygen, in 7 years and 310 days. On 29 October 2019, the British-Nepali climber Nirmal Purja set a speed record of 6 months and 6 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders with the use of supplementary oxygen. On 27 July 2023, Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa set a new speed record of 92 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders with supplementary oxygen.
Deadliest
The eight-thousanders are some of the world's deadliest mountains. The extreme altitude and the fact that the summits of all eight-thousanders lie in the Death Zone mean that climber mortality is high. Two metrics are quoted to establish a death rate that are used to rank the eight-thousanders in order of deadliest.- Broad death rate: The first metric is the ratio of total deaths on the mountain to successful climbers summiting over a given period. The Guinness Book of World Records uses this metric to name Annapurna I as the deadliest eight-thousander, and the world's deadliest mountain with roughly one person dying for every three people who successfully summit, i.e. a ratio of circa 30%. Using consistent data from 1950 to 2012, mountaineering statistician Eberhard Jurgalski used this metric to show Annapurna is the deadliest mountain, followed by K2, Nanga Parbat, Dhaulagiri and Kangchenjunga. Other statistical sources including MountainIQ, used a mix of data periods from 1900 to Spring 2021 but had similar results showing Annapurna still being the deadliest mountain, followed by K2, Nanga Parbat, Kangchenjunga, and Dhaulagiri. Cho Oyu was the safest at 1.4%.
- Narrow death rate: The drawback of the first metric is that it includes the deaths of any support climbers or climbing sherpas that went above base camp in assisting the climb; therefore, rather than being the probability that a climber will die attempting to summit an eight-thousander, it is more akin to the total human cost in getting a climber to the summit. In the Himalayan Database tables, the climber "Death Rate" is the ratio of deaths above base camp, of all climbers who were hoping to summit and who went above base camp, and is closer to a true probability of death. The data is only for the Nepalese Himalaya and therefore does not include K2 or Nanga Parbat. HDB estimates the probability of death for a climber attempting the summit of an eight-thousander is still highest for Annapurna I, followed by Kangchenjunga and Dhaulagiri ; the safest is still Cho Oyu at 0.6%.
List of first ascents
From 1950 to 1964, all 14 of the eight-thousanders were summited in the summer, and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter.List of climbers of all 14
There is no single undisputed source or arbitrator for verified ascents of Himalayan eight-thousander peaks.Various mountaineering journals, including the Alpine Journal and the American Alpine Journal, also maintain extensive records and archives on expeditions to the eight-thousanders, but do not always opine on disputed ascents, and nor do they maintain registers or lists of verified ascents of the eight-thousanders.
Elizabeth Hawley's The Himalayan Database, is considered as an important source for verified ascents for the Nepalese Himalayas. Online databases of Himalayan ascents pay close regard to The Himalayan Database, including the website AdventureStats.com, and the Eberhard Jurgalski List.
Verified ascents
The "No O2" column lists people who have climbed all 14 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen.| Order | Order | Name | Period climbing eight-thousanders | Born | Age | Nationality | ||||||||||
| 1 | 1 | Reinhold Messner | 1970–1986 | 1944 | 42 |  Disputed ascentsClaims have been made for summiting all 14 peaks for which not enough evidence was provided to verify the ascent; the disputed ascent in each claim is shown in parentheses in the table below. In most cases, the Himalayan chronicler Elizabeth Hawley is considered a definitive source regarding the facts of the dispute. Her The Himalayan Database is the source for other online Himalayan ascent databases. The Eberhard Jurgalski List is also another important source for independent verification of claims to have summited all 14 eight-thousanders.
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