Deborah & Clare


Deborah & Clare were bespoke shirtmakers based in London. The business was set up by designers, Deborah Wood and Clare Bewicke in 1965, working from a condemned basement. The shop soon became known for contemporary design. In 1967, the business moved to 27 Beauchamp Place, London SW3 where it became one of London's trendiest spots. Wood and Bewicke sold up in 1973. Examples of their work are in the Victoria & Albert Museum.

History

Deborah Wood and Clare Bewicke set up business together as designers in 1965, working from a condemned basement in Walton Street, Chelsea. By 1967, the business was in Old Church Street, Chelsea.
Observing a general lack of innovation in men's clothes, they moved into the specialised field of bespoke shirts, using a Greek shirtmaker in London's East End. Until this time custom-made men's shirts were largely the preserve of Jermyn Street, catering to a traditional elite. The shop soon became known for contemporary design within the classic art of shirtmaking.
A visit to New York in 1967 produced an offer of backing from Ahmet Ertigan to open a London shop, but his pre-requisite that the shop also carried the entire range of Levi jeans was dismissed as "much too serious," and the eventual backing came from David Astor. The pair moved to Beauchamp Place. Additional shirtmakers, trained in Jermyn Street, were found after a lengthy search. Andy and Annie Mullins, who had between them the vital skills of Cutter and Collar-maker. "It's two girls on the game," Andy told his wife "making shirts as a cover up." Alan Holston, poached from Dandie Fashions in Kings Road became the popular manager. The shop was designed by David Mlinaric, and opened in December 1967. Terracotta walls with putty-coloured paintwork were the backdrop for polished glass shelves of stock shirts and racks of cloth. It was a cave of colour, and No 29 Beauchamp Place became one of the trendiest venues in London, attracting a global clientele of all persuasion.
Wood and Bewicke sold up in 1973 and Wood went to work for Laura Ashley for ten years as head designer of clothes and textiles.
Examples of Deborah & Clare shirts are in the Victoria & Albert Museum.