Banjarmasin


Banjarmasin is the largest city in South Kalimantan, Indonesia. It was the capital of the province until 15 February 2022. The city is located on a delta island near the confluence of the Barito and Martapura rivers. Historically the centre of the Banjarese culture, and the capital of the Sultanate of Banjar, it is the biggest city in South Kalimantan and one of the main cities of Kalimantan. The city covers an area of and had a population of 625,481 as of the 2010 Census and 657,663 as of the 2020 Census; the official estimate as of mid 2024 was 681,693. It is the third most populous city on the island of Borneo.
Greater Banjarmasin, also known as Banjarbakula or Banjar Raya, is an urban agglomeration of over two million people covering an area of, which includes Banjarbaru city and parts of Banjar Regency, Barito Kuala Regency, and Tanah Laut Regency, and accounts for 2,076,771 inhabitants in mid 2024, amounting to almost half of the province's population.
Banjarmasin was the de jure seat of the South Kalimantan governor and the location of the provincial parliament, although some provincial buildings have been relocated to Banjarbaru. On 15 February 2022, the capital of South Kalimantan province was legally moved to Banjarbaru.

History

Etymology

"Banjarmasin" is thought to be a corrupted version of "Bandar Masih", which was named for Patih Masih, who ruled the port and the surrounding villages. Patih Masih's name may have been a nickname. Masih originates from the Ngaju language. Oloh Masi refers to the coastal-dwelling Malay population in the language of the Dayaks, who lived in the interior and visited the port regularly to trade. Some of the Dayaks eventually settled in the port. They eventually contributed to the culture of the Banjar people, along with the Javanese and Malays.

Early history

European archeologist H. Kupper discovered several prehistoric sites around the region in 1939 and found implements such as choppers and other stone tools. Most of the artifacts found around the region and the province show signs of Neolithic culture. Migration from mainland Asia to Borneo may have been common while they were connected by the Sunda Shelf. Many stone tools have been found in Awang Bangkal, from the city.
Until the early 15th century, there were few written records found from the region. Outside records indicate it was home to several kingdoms such as Tanjungpuri—theorized to have been founded by Malay people from Srivijaya—and Negara Daha and Dipa, which were founded by Javanese people from Majapahit. Hinduism and Buddhism entered the region between the first and 15th centuries. There are two candis left in the region, Candi Laras and Candi Agung. The Ma'anyan people may have ruled the oldest kingdom in the archipelago, Nan Sarunai. Its existence is disputed; speculated by archeologists based on several carved stone tombs and a Ma'anyan folk song called "Usak Jawa", which is thought to tell the story of the Majapahit conquest of the kingdom.
The history of Banjarmasin itself began during the founding of the Sultanate of Banjar. According to folk stories and the Hikayat Banjar, Sukarama, the fourth king of Negara Daha, wanted his grandson, Raden Samudra, to be his successor in the kingdom instead of his direct son Prince Tumenggung. Prince Tumenggung later banished Raden Samudra and tried to reclaim the throne for himself. Raden Samudra fled to the region that would later be known as Banjarmasin. There, he met Patih Masih. Under Samudra's leadership, the port grew into the town of Bandar Masih. Tumenggung, who disliked Samudra's growing power, wanted to invade the town. Samudra allied with the Demak Sultanate, which agreed to help him. In return he would have to convert to Islam if he won. With the help of expeditionary forces from Demak, Samudra defeated the Tumenggung forces and proclaimed the Banjar Sultanate. He changed his name to Sultan Suriansyah I. The sultanate became more reliant on the Demak to the point that it was considered their protectorate. However, between 1546 and 1550, as conquests and the spice trade enriched the sultanate, it became independent and stopped sending tributes to Java.

Colonial era

The first contact between Europeans and the Banjar people in the region came through trade. Starting in 1596, this mostly took place in Banten. European traders, largely Dutch, did not bother visiting the port until Banten's rulers banned them. The traders resorted to attacking ships from other countries, including ships under the Banjar Sultanate, to steal nutmeg. The Sultan took revenge against a Dutch ship visiting Banjarmasin on 17 July 1607 by hijacking it and massacring the crew. Similar incidents occurred several times between 1603 and 1636, ending when the sultanate reached a trade agreement that put the Dutch East India Company in control of the nutmeg trade from the sultanate and gave it a monopoly over trade in Banjarmasin. The company was expelled in 1638, however, after the sultan waged a war against the Dutch and burned much of the company's possessions around the port.
Similarly, an English company agreed upon a treaty with the sultanate in 1698 but was expelled from the region in 1707. Following the Napoleonic Wars, Banjarmasin was subject to British control, a situation complicated by the Anglo-Dutch Treaty of 1814, which was seen to have mandated its transfer to Dutch authority. This directive paradoxically conflicted with a prior 1812 treaty between the British East India Company and the sultanate, which prohibited the region’s transfer to any other European power. This issue was navigated by the then Governor of Java, John Fendall, who argued that the 1812 treaty’s conditions were still valid. Sovereignty was therefore effectively transferred from the British East India Company to the Sultan in late 1816, and not directly to the Dutch. The dispute over sovereignty was finally settled when the Sultan of Banjarmasin settled an agreement with the Netherlands in January 1817, effectively confirming Dutch control over the region. A succession crisis between Sultan Adam and Tamjidillah II and a dispute over resource control of coal mines resulted in a war between the sultanate and the Dutch East Indies Company which led to the end of the sultanate in 1863. The war continued until 1905 under an emergency government set up by the sultanate called Pagustian. The last resistance was put down with the capture of Queen Zaleha in 1906. As a result of the war, many Banjar people from Borneo migrated to Sumatra, Singapore, and Malaysia and formed communities there.

20th century–present

When World War II broke out, the city was occupied by the Imperial Japanese Army. After the Battle of Banjarmasin, control was transferred to the Imperial Japanese Navy. Locals described Japanese rule under the navy as harsher compared to the army. This led many people to escape to Java, which remained under army rule. The city was liberated by Australian forces in September 1945. The return of Dutch rule, however, was opposed by the people and resulted in the Kalimantan Physical Revolution, four years of war between Indonesian nationalists and the Royal Netherlands East Indies Army. This ended with the Dutch recognition of Indonesia in 1949. The city was briefly assigned as the capital of Great Dayak federal state before being absorbed into a single Kalimantan province. It later became the capital city of the newly formed South Kalimantan province. Frequent flooding led to a plan to relocate the provincial capital city to Banjarbaru. The process continued until 2011, and the provincial parliament remains in Banjarmasin. Banjarmasin was granted city status by the Indonesian government in 1959 under Law Number 27 of 1959.
On 7 December 1996, Dirgantara Air Service Flight 5940 crashed to the gas factory after taking off near Syamsudin Noor International Airport, killing around 18 people. On 23 May 1997, the city witnessed a riot caused by friction between supporters of the United Development Party and Golkar. The riot later developed into looting, which targeted Chinese and Christian minorities and several shopping malls. At least 137 people were killed during the riots. The riot today is known by locals as Jumat Kelabu or Grey Friday.
On 15 February 2022, the capital of South Kalimantan province was legally moved to Banjarbaru.

Geography

Banjarmasin is located in the Barito River's basin and is bisected by the Martapura River. The slope of the city is 0.13% and the land is generally flat and low-lying. The geological foundation of the city is dominated by clay and sandstone, but also includes alluvial sediments from the river. Several smaller rivers, all connected to either the Martapura River or Barito River, form a dendritic drainage pattern. The city's river system is affected by tides. The city is located in a swampy region and is generally below water level, making it prone to being flooded by tidal bores.
The area of city proper is, around 0.26% of the provincial area. It borders the Barito Kuala Regency in the north and west and the Banjar Regency in the east and south.

Climate

Banjarmasin has a tropical savanna climate with heavy rainfall from November to June and moderate rainfall from July to October. The monthly temperature is within range between to with an average maximum temperature of and average minimum temperature of. However, there is a slight variation of seasonal temperatures because of monsoons. Precipitation can reach between and yearly, with an average level of. The hottest months are between March and September when the temperature can reach an average as high as. The average amount of sunshine is 2.8 hours per day during the rainy season and 6.5 hours during the dry season.
January is the wettest month, with air humidity sitting between 75 and 90% in January; September is the driest, with humidity of 52% in September.