Visolotto
Visolotto is a high mountain in the Cottian Alps, located in Piedmont, north of Monviso.
Features
It is located slightly north of Monviso from which it is separated by the Cadreghe di Viso, rocky structures with the peculiar shape of chairs. During clear weather days it is easily recognizable even from the Turin plain. The peak, entirely in Italian territory, is on the ridge separating the Varaita valley from the Po valley, on the border between the municipal territories of Pontechianale and Crissolo.The summit has three distinct peaks: the Lanino Peak or West Peak, the Coolidge Peak or Central Peak and the Montaldo Peak or East Peak. Lanino and Coolidge Peaks are separated from Montaldo Peak by of rather rugged ridge.
Geologically, the dominant rock type on Visolotto is epidote amphibolite, a regional metamorphic rock with basic chemism that is light green streaked with yellow-green.
For a long time the mountain was considered 'inaccessible,' and because of its steep slopes it has no easy access routes. The normal route is mountaineering, with a difficulty rated in AD with a grade III passage on rock.
First ascents and the Montaldo-Coolidge dispute
The first ascent dates back to September 4, 1875 and was completed by engineer Felice Montaldo of the CAI of Susa, Antonio Castagneri of Balme and Francesco Perotti on Montaldo Peak. The three followed the most direct route for the ascent, namely the northern face of the mountain. However, the choice of the route was not very judicious, as the north face had and still has the shortcoming of being continually subject to rock falls and also, because of its orientation, was covered with snow and ice until late summer. The second ascent of Visolotto, again to Picco Montaldo following more or less the same route, was made in 1877 by three masons from Paesana: Battista Bertorello, Cristoforo and Giovanni Picca. They, having reached the top of Montaldo Peak, stuck an Italian flag into the rock.The first ascent to the other two peaks was made by William Auguste Coolidge with guides Christian Almer and Ulrich Almer on July 31, 1881. This roped party thus traversed the entire summit ridge of Visolotto for the first time and also made the first traverse of the mountain since the descent was made along the easier south face. This event caused some discussion between the Italian trio and the American mountaineer as to who should be considered the first climber of Visolotto. Coolidge, in fact, despite being an already established mountaineer and the author of numerous first ascents, in no way intended to give up the glory of stripping Visolotto of its proud virginity. To try to explain his reasons, the American wrote in the Alpine Journal a very harsh and polemical speech:
On August 29, 1892, mountaineer Giuseppe Lanino, accompanied by guides Claudio and Giuseppe Perotti, reached the West Peak opening a new route along the northwest face and west ridge of Visolotto.
The first winter ascent was made by Pietro Ravelli, Marie and Emanuele Andreis on March 19, 1938.
Alpine refuges
The following shelters can be used for the ascent to the summit:- East and north slopes:
- * Bivacco Carlo Villata in the upper Valle Po
- Normal route:
- * Rifugio Vallanta in the upper Varaita Valley
- * Rifugio Viso in the Queyras Valley.