Turkish wine


Turkish wine is wine made in the transcontinental state of Turkey. Viticulture in Anatolia dates back at least 7,000 to 9,000 years, placing the region alongside the Caucasus as one of the earliest centers of vine domestication.
Turkey is home to between 600 and 1,200 indigenous varieties of Vitis vinifera, though less than 60 of these are grown commercially. With approximately planted under vine, Turkey has the fifth-largest vineyard area in the world. However, only a small percentage of these grapes are processed into wine; the majority are consumed as table grapes, dried as raisins, or distilled into rakı.
Modern Turkish winemaking has undergone a significant transformation since the 1990s, characterized by the privatization of the state monopoly Tekel, the emergence of boutique wineries, and a revival of indigenous grape varieties.

History

Ancient and classical periods

Viticulture in the region now known as Turkey is among the oldest in the world. Archaeological evidence suggests that Vitis vinifera was domesticated in southeastern Anatolia between 9500 and 5000 BCE. By around 2000 BCE, the Hittites had established laws regulating viticulture, indicating the importance of wine in their society. During the Phrygian era, Anatolian wines were exported to France and Italy; records indicate shipments to Marseille in the 6th century BCE. The western coast of Anatolia was a center for the cult of Dionysus, and wines from regions like Ionia were praised by Homer.

Ottoman era

During the Ottoman Empire, wine production continued primarily within non-Muslim communities due to Islamic restrictions on alcohol consumption. These communities maintained the viticultural traditions in regions such as Thrace, the Aegean, and Cappadocia. The port city of Smyrna was particularly noted for its wine export trade in the 17th century.

Early Republic and state monopoly

Following the establishment of the Republic of Turkey in 1923, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk promoted the modernization of the wine industry. In 1925, he established the country's first commercial state-owned winery in Tekirdağ. For decades, the industry was dominated by the state monopoly Tekel, which controlled production and distribution. Notable private wineries such as Doluca and Kavaklıdere were also founded during this period.

Modern renaissance (1990s–present)

The 1990s marked a renaissance for Turkish wine. The privatization of Tekel in 2004 ended the state monopoly, encouraging new investments. A wave of boutique wineries emerged, employing modern vinification techniques and international consultants. There has been a concerted effort to rescue and revive indigenous grape varieties such as Kalecik Karası, Narince, and Urla Karası. Since 2004, Turkish wines have won over 1,000 awards in international competitions.

Wine regions and terroir

Turkey's geography provides a diverse range of terroirs, with commercial production concentrated in four main regions.

Thrace and Marmara

Located in northwest Turkey, the Thrace and Marmara regions produce approximately 30–40% of the country's wine. The climate is maritime, influenced by the Aegean Sea, Sea of Marmara, and Black Sea.
The Aegean Region is Turkey's largest wine-producing area, accounting for over 30% of production. It features a Mediterranean climate with hot summers and mild winters.
This region, including Ankara and Cappadocia, has a continental climate with hot, dry summers and cold winters. Vineyards are often located at altitudes between 800 and 1,200 meters.
  • Cappadocia: With volcanic tuff soils, this area is the home of the white grape Emir. Vineyards here face risks of winter frost.
  • Kalecik: Near Ankara, this microclimate along the Kızılırmak River is the home of the Kalecik Karası grape.

    Eastern and Southeastern Anatolia

Historically significant as a possible birthplace of wine, these regions have harsh continental climates with high-altitude vineyards.
  • Eastern Anatolia: Elazığ and Malatya in the Euphrates valley are home to the Öküzgözü grape.
  • Southeastern Anatolia: Diyarbakır produces the tannic Boğazkere. In Mardin, the Syriac community continues an ancient winemaking tradition using local varieties like Mazrona.

    Other regions

  • Mediterranean: High-altitude vineyards in the Taurus Mountains are emerging, reviving grapes like Acıkara.
  • Black Sea: The inner province of Tokat is famous for the Narince grape, which grows in the transition zone between the Black Sea and Central Anatolian climates.

    Grapes and wine

While Turkey has hundreds of indigenous grape varieties, only about 60 are used commercially. Winemakers often blend these with international varieties like Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Chardonnay.

Indigenous varieties

International varieties

International grapes have been widely planted since the 1990s. Common varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Grenache, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc, and Viognier. These are often used in Bordeaux-style blends or blended with native grapes.

Wine styles

  • Red: Ranges from the light, Pinot-like Kalecik Karası to the tannic, age-worthy Boğazkere. The classic "Buzbağ" style is a blend of Öküzgözü and Boğazkere.
  • White: Includes crisp, mineral wines, aromatic styles, and barrel-fermented whites.
  • Rosé: Often made from Çalkarası or Kalecik Karası in a dry, Provençal style.
  • Sparkling: Traditional method sparkling wines are produced in small quantities using Emir or Kalecik Karası.
  • Sweet: Late-harvest wines and fortified styles exist but are rare.

    Wineries

As of the mid-2020s, Turkey has approximately 140 licensed wineries.
  • Historic Producers:
  • * Kayra operates wineries in Elazığ and Şarköy. It produces the historic Buzbağ brand.
  • * Kavaklıdere is the largest private producer, with vineyards across Anatolia.
  • * Doluca is a major producer known for its "Sarafin" line, which introduced international varietals to Turkey.
  • * Sevilen and Diren are other significant legacy producers.
  • Boutique and Modern Wineries:
  • * Thrace: Arcadia, Barbare, Chamlija, and Şato Kalpak are noted for high-quality production and enotourism.
  • * Aegean: Urla Winery, Paşaeli, and Corvus have been pivotal in the region's quality revolution.
  • * Anatolia: Turasan and Kocabağ are key producers in Cappadocia, while Vinkara in Kalecik specializes in Kalecik Karası and sparkling wines.
  • * Other: Likya in Antalya focuses on reviving rare local grapes like Acıkara.

    Wine tourism

Wine tourism has grown significantly, supported by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism through designated "Vineyard Routes."
  • Thrace Vineyard Route: Connects wineries in Kırklareli, Tekirdağ, and Gelibolu. It is a popular destination due to its proximity to Istanbul.
  • Urla Vineyard Route: A cluster of boutique wineries on the Urla peninsula near İzmir, known for its gastronomy and agrotourism.
  • Cappadocia: Offers unique experiences such as tasting wines in rock-carved cellars and visiting ancient vineyards.
  • Bozcaada: The island hosts an annual Grape Harvest Festival in September.

    Wine culture and cuisine

Although per capita wine consumption in Turkey is low due to religious and cultural factors, there is a vibrant wine culture in urban centers and tourism regions. Turkish wine is increasingly paired with local cuisine:
  • Boğazkere pairs with rich meat dishes like kebabs and tandır.
  • Öküzgözü complements dishes with tomato sauces or eggplant, such as Hünkarbeğendi.
  • Narince and Emir are often served with meze and grilled fish.

    Industry structure and regulations

The Turkish wine industry faces strict regulations. A 2013 law banned the advertising and promotion of alcohol, restricting wineries' ability to market their products. Additionally, high excise taxes and VAT contribute to high retail prices. Despite these challenges, the industry has focused on increasing export quality and developing direct-to-consumer sales through tourism.