Tomaž Humar


Tomaž Humar, nicknamed Gozdni Joža, was a Slovenian mountaineer. A father of two, Humar lived in Kamnik, Slovenia. He completed over 1500 ascents, and won a number of mountaineering and other awards, including the Piolet d'Or in 1997 for his Ama Dablam ascent.

Climbing career

Humar began climbing at 18 with the Kamnik Mountain Club. He became widely recognized in 1999 after his solo ascent of the south face of Dhaulagiri, considered one of the deadliest routes in the Himalayas with a 40% fatality rate. Reinhold Messner, who attempted it twice unsuccessfully, called Humar's feat "the most important ascent of the decade".
During a solo attempt to climb Nanga Parbat in 2005, Humar became trapped by avalanches and melting snow at an altitude of nearly 6000 meters. After six days in a snow cave he was rescued by a Pakistan Army helicopter crew on August 10, 2005: Lieutenant Colonel Rashid Ullah Baig and Major Khalid Amir Rana.
On October 28, 2007, Humar reached the Eastern summit of Annapurna I,, via a route at the far eastern end of the South Face.

Accident and death

On November 9, 2009, Humar, who was on a solo climb via the South Face of Langtang Lirung, had an accident during the descent. He contacted his base camp staff via a satellite phone on the day of the accident, relaying that he was in critical condition with leg, spine and rib injuries, and fearing he was going to die. The next morning he contacted them again, only saying a few words before the line cut off. He was thought to be on the mountain at an elevation of approximately, but a helicopter failed to spot him. Several days later his body was found at an elevation of.

Prominent expeditions

  • 13. November 1994: Ganesh V, in Ganesh Himal, new variation on SE face, with
  • 6. May 1995: Annapurna, N face, French Route, solo climb
  • 4. May 1996: Ama Dablam, new route on NW face, with
  • 2. November 1996: Bobaye, 1st ascent of the summit, NW face, new route "Golden Heart", solo climb
  • 1. October 1997: Lobuche East, NE face, new route "Talking About Tsampa", with Janez Jeglič and Carlos Carsolio
  • 9-11. October 1997: Pumori, with Janez Jeglič, Marjan Kovač
  • 31. October 1997: Nuptse West top, W face, new route, with
  • 26. October 1998: El Capitan , route Reticent Wall A4-A5, 3rd solo climb
  • 2. November 1999: Dhaulagiri, new route on S face, solo climb
  • 26. October 2002: Shisha Pangma,, with Maxut Zhumaiev, Denis Urubko, Aleksej Raspopov, Vassiliy Pivtsov
  • June 2003: Nanga Parbat, his first attempt to climb Rupal Face, up to ca. 6000 m
  • 22. December 2003: Aconcagua, S face, new route with Aleš Koželj
  • October 2004: Jannu, E face, attempt solo up to 7000 m
  • 23. April 2005: Cholatse, NE face 2nd ascent with new variation, with Aleš Koželj,
  • Aug 2005: Nanga Parbat, attempt to solo climb Rupal Face, up to 7000 meters
  • October 2006: Baruntse, W face of SE ridge, solo
  • 28. October 2007: Annapurna, S face, new route, solo climb
  • 8. November 2009: Langtang Lirung, S face solo attempt, died during descent