The Wheel of Life


The Wheel of Life is a long sandstone bouldering route on the roof of the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians of Australia. When first climbed, it was graded at, one of the world's first-ever boulder routes at that grade. With repeats, it was graded at, and some consider it to really be a sport climbing traverse route, at the sport grade of.

History

The sandstone roof of the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians attracted some of the leading boulderers, including Austrian Klem Loskot, Swiss Fred Nicole, and Dutchman Toni Lamprecht, who had created a web of hard bouldering routes. In 2000, when Nicole sent Sleepy Hollow at, it opened up the possibility of linking up a chain of all the routes across the roof of the cave, namely: Loskot's X-treme Cool, Nicole's Sleepy Hollow, Loskot's Cave Man, Loskot's Dead Can't Dance, and finally exiting via Loskot's Rave Heart.
Japanese climber Dai Koyamada traveled to the Hollow Mountain Cave in April 2004, with a plan to spend over 50 days bouldering in the area and working on the full link-up. As well as repeating many routes and creating many new routes in the area, he linked up Sleepy Hollow, Cave Man and Dead Can't Dance into a route he called Sleepy Rave and graded at. On May 12, 2004, Koyamada completed the full 70-move link-up and called it The Wheel of Life and proposed a boulder grade of, which would have made it the world's first-ever boulder at that grade.
It took three years for the first repeat, which was by Australian climber Chris Webb Parsons in 2007. On the recovery path from a serious injury, American climber Ethan Pringle made the third ascent in 2010 and suggested that the significant length of the route made it more akin to a sport climbing route, which he felt could be at sport-grade. American climber Dave Graham made the sixth ascent in 2012 and said that "For myself, it's not possible to compare it to other boulder problems, due to its length. I must regard it as a route", and that "The breakdown of the climb puts it in a league above 9a's that I have climbed, which makes me believe its 9a+". In 2013, American climber Daniel Woods made the ninth ascent and felt that it was no harder than as a boulder route, or as a sport climbing route, because of the rests between sections.
Wood's grading became the consensus for the route, and by 2016, the additional development of kneepads that can be used for extended knee bar rests between the sections, has if anything slightly further softened the consensus grade.

Variations

In November 2012, Australian climber James Kassey linked The Wheel of Life to Amniotic World, and called it The Wheel of Life Direct. Kassey's variation was repeated in 2015 by Dutch climber, who felt that it did not change the then consensus grading of or Ewbank 35.

Ascents

The Wheel of Life has been ascended by:

Filmography

  • Documentary on Koyamada's the first ascent:
  • Recorded send of Ian Dory -