The Bengal Club
The Bengal Club is a social and business club in Kolkata, India. Founded in 1827, the club is the oldest social club in India. When Kolkata was the capital of British India, the club was considered to be the "unofficial headquarters of the Raj". The club is nowadays known for its old-world ambience and patronage among contemporary social and corporate elites, and is among a small number of Indian clubs featured in the elite list of the "Platinum Clubs of the World".
History
Works that provide detailed historical information about the club include A Short History of the Bengal Club 1827–1927, a book by Sir Hugh Rahere Panckridge ; The Bengal Club 1927–1970, a book by R.I. Macalpine ; A History of The Bengal Club '', a booklet by Arabinda Ray ; and The Bengal Club in History, a book edited by academic Malabika Sarkar.19th century
Panckridge writes that the Bengal Club predates many important social clubs in London, though the model for the club was the Oriental Club in London. The idea for the Bengal Club was conceived of in a meeting of notable Englishmen at the Town Hall of Calcutta in 1826, led by Lieutenant-Colonel John Finch, son of the 4th Earl of Aylesford. Finch explained at the meeting that "nothing like a respectable hotel or coffeehouse has ever existed" in Calcutta, and "those who constitute the society of Calcutta have no place where they can spend an idle half hour agreeably"The club was formally established on 8 February 1827, with the Viscount Combermere its first patron. In 1830, Lord William Bentinck, the last Governor of Bengal and the first Governor-General of India, became the second patron of the club. The club's original members included influential figures like Charles Metcalfe, Henry Thoby Prinsep and Sir Edward Ryan, along with senior military officials. In 1838, the club passed a resolution to reciprocate with the now-extinct Byculla Club of Mumbai. Later, reciprocal relations were established with the Madras Club, the Hong Kong Club and the now-defunct Shanghai Club.
By the 1870s, the club was being described in travelogues as "the most swell establishment of the kind in the East" and "an institution known to all the dwellers of the East" . By the close of the century, the Bengal Club became one of a handful of buildings in British India to be supplied with electricity.
Panckridge writes that the Bengal Club was originally intended to be called the Calcutta United Service Club. Ironically, a later institution with a similar name, the Bengal United Service Club, was established in close proximity to the Bengal Club. Much like the Bengal Club, the club had senior British officials and judges as members.
20th century
In 1912, on the visit of George V to Kolkata, the club was among a set of buildings illuminated with electric lights to welcome his cavalcade. The King presented the club with his portrait. Over a hundred members of the club served in the First World War. Two members were awarded the Victoria Cross: army doctor Arthur Martin-Leake and Sir Reginald Graham. Several members also lost their lives in the War. The Governor of Bengal later unveiled a plaque in their memory. In 1927, the Bengal Club celebrated its centenary by organising a grand banquet, with many important figures from British India in attendance. The following day, for the first time in the club's history, female guests were allowed to enter the club for a one-off tour.According to Macalpine, the club's other milestones in the 20th century included its designation as a public air raid shelter and medical aid post during the Second World War; the grant of honorary membership to around 1,200 armed forces personnel stationed in Kolkata during different phases of the War ; the admittance of Indian members ; the allowance of women inside the club's premises ; the receipt of valuable paintings and artefacts ; and visits by many notable dignitaries and public figures.
However, Macalpine also chronicles the club as suffering from a series of financial setbacks during this period, exacerbated by the fact that the club's membership size was small and highly selective. The 1934 Nepal–India earthquake apparently caused great damage to the club's building and necessitated costly repairs, while a large number of expensive renovations were also undertaken in successive decades. Meanwhile, the Second World War resulted in food and alcohol shortages, and an atmosphere of panic followed the bombing of Kolkata by Japan. Macalpine claims that the club's revenues were further dented by strikes by "menial" staff motivated by "anti-British" sentiment, and various excise, prohibition and labour laws. By the late 1960s, the club's finances were so badly hit that it sold half of its premises.
Ray states that the club celebrated its 150th anniversary in 1977 with a large banquet, allowed women to become members in their own right in 1988, and increased facilities offered to members significantly from the 1990s onwards.
21st century
Sarkar and her co-contributors generally describe the Bengal Club as continuing with many British-era traditions in the present century. The international press has provided a similar description of the club, variously referring to its menus, decor, artworks, dress codes and waiters' uniforms. Among events of note, the club has hosted the award ceremony for the 2004 Commonwealth Writers' Prize, where The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time and A Distant Shore were awarded the top prizes.Facilities
Travel books from the 19th century suggest that the Bengal Club was then one of Kolkata's principal luxury accommodations, along with the Great Eastern Hotel and the Spence's Hotel. One visitor from that period, John Fletcher Hurst, described the club as "a delightful resort" with "spacious and beautiful" bedrooms and a well-stocked library. The club's present facilities include accommodation rooms, banquet halls, bars, lounges, dining rooms, conference rooms, a library and indoor sports facilities. The club's website lists various clubs in India and overseas as among its affiliated clubs.Food and culinary history
In the 19th century, the Bengal Cub's food and drink was spoken of favourably in a number of travelogues and cookbooks. The club's head chef was a French cook, who later became the private cook of the Nawab of Oudh. Food historian Colleen Taylor Sen credits the Bengal Club with pioneering and popularising the masala omelette. At one point, the club supposedly housed "four cooks who made nothing but omelettes all day long and wouldn't soil their hands doing anything else." The club was also known for a type of sweet mango chutney. Internationally, the item became generically known as "Bengal Club chutney" and was marketed by different traders under that name. Harrods and Eaton's also sold versions of the item.In modern times, various books have discussed the club's culinary history and shared some of its signature recipes. Condé Nast Traveler has listed the Bengal Club's orange soufflé as one of eight recommended recipes from colonial Indian clubs, and mentioned its biryani as one of the best examples of home-made Kolkata biryani.
Relocations and architectural history
In 1827, the Bengal Club was housed in a four-storeyed building in Esplanade, known as Gordon's Buildings, for a rent of Rupees 800 every month. The "Agency House Crisis" affected the club severely. Unable to pay rent, the club shifted to a house in Tank Square. In 1845, with its finances improving, the club shifted to a building in Russell Street, which had served as the residence of Thomas Babington Macaulay. The original owner of the land was Kaliprasanna Singha, a well-known writer and philanthropist. The club later expanded to a new, adjacent building in Chowringhee. The new building was designed by Vincent Esch, superintending architect of the Victoria Memorial, and formally opened in 1911. Esch also dismantled and redesigned the Russell Street building.In the 1960s, the club ran into heavy debt, as "class and race exclusivity had shrunk the membership". Rather than expanding the club's membership to raise revenues, the club took the decision to maintain its rarefied membership and sell the Chowringhee building to Grindlay's Bank, retaining only the Russell Street premises as before. Macalpine writes that the sale of the Chowringhee building to Grindlay's was "manna from heaven" for the club from a financial standpoint. However, the Indian government unexpectedly refused permission to Grindlay's to use the Chowringhee building. The bank was compelled to sell the building to Benoy Kumar Chatterjee, a businessman with a controversial reputation.
Chatterjee, in violation of building laws, demolished the Chowringhee building and built a skyscraper in its place, the Chatterjee International Centre. Historian David Gilmour writes that the Chowringhee building could have survived if the club had simply accepted Indians as members after Independence. In Britain, The Times reacted to the demolition by remarking: "The sun has set on the imperial splendour of the Bengal Club." Meanwhile, heritage conservationists have criticised the demolition of the Chowringhee building and called for greater government efforts to preserve architectural heritage.
According to oral legend, a king cobra was spotted by construction workers when the Tank Square premises were being built. The workers, regarding the creature as the sacred guardian of the place, refused to continue their work. A Hindu priest was then brought to the premises to perform rituals and propitiate the snake with milk. The snake eventually left the premises and work resumed. In acknowledgement of the incident, the club adopted the symbol of a king cobra as its emblem in British India. The emblem is visible in a lunette above a tower at the club.