Roger Baxter-Jones
Roger Baxter-Jones, was a British mountaineer, skier and alpine guide. He was an early pioneer in Himalayan alpine style ascents of eight-thousander mountains, and a guide in Chamonix, noted for his competence and vast experience. Paul Nunn wrote "One of Britain's leading mountaineers, a member of the ACG Committee for years, and certainly one of the strongest ever, he was a top off-piste skier, and a mountaineer of impeccable judgment, able to guide on routes of the highest standards with a considerable margin."
Notable ascents
His notable ascents in the French Alps include the second ascent of the Whymper Spur Direct on the Grandes Jorasses with Nick Colton; and the first winter ascent of the North Face of the Aiguille des Grands Charmoz.His notable Himalayan ascents include Jannu, Makalu II, Makalu, Shisha Pangma, Broad Peak, K2. Baxter-Jones' golden rule "Come back alive, come back as friends, get to the top — in that order" was well respected amongst elite climbers.
Baxter-Jones climbed with many of the premiere alpinists of his time including Doug Scott, Georges Bettembourg and Alex MacIntyre.
Baxter-Jones and Scott's ascent of Broad Peak was the subject of the 1984 film Himalaya - 8000 mètres sans oxygène by Jean Afanassieff.
Death
He died on 8 July 1985 aged 35 while guiding a client, when a serac collapsed on the north face of the Triolet.The Doug Parker and Roger Baxter-Jones Memorial Scholarship was established at the American Mountain Guides Association to honor his memory.