Cosmetology
Cosmetology is the study and application of beauty treatment. Branches of specialty include hairstyling, skin care, cosmetics, manicures/pedicures, non-permanent hair removal such as waxing and sugaring, and permanent hair removal processes such as electrology and intense pulsed light.
In the United States as of 2008, an occupational license is required in all states to be a cosmetologist, with the average cost of a certificate from a for-profit school being $17,000 and 1,500 required hours with cosmetologists making a median wage of $25,000.
Cosmetology specialties
Cosmetologist
Cosmetologists are trained and licensed to perform cosmetic treatments to the hair, skin, and nails. This can be expanded into multiple parts including cutting and chemically treating hair, chemical hair removal, fashion trends, wigs, nails and skin care, skin and hair analysis; relaxation techniques including head, neck, scalp, hand and feet basic massage and aroma therapies; plus ability to expertly apply makeup applications to cover up dark spots or promote and can expand into further specialties such as reflexology; theatrical applications; cosmetics and others as listed below.Hair color specialist
A hair color specialist, or hair colorist, specializes in the modification of natural hair color utilizing various application methods while using a colorant product from a professional company. In the US, some colorists are qualified through the American Board of Certified Hair Colorists. This designation is used to recognize colorists that have a greater level of competency in the industry through a written exam and a practical exam. A hair color specialist's duties might include, but are not limited to, basic color applications, like covering grey, and lightening or darkening natural hair color. A color specialist is also able to perform corrective color applications and create special effects using foiling techniques or any other advanced color application methods.Shampoo technician
A shampoo technician shampoos and conditions a client's hair in preparation for the hair stylist. This is generally an apprentice position and a first step for many just out of cosmetology school.Esthetician
Estheticians are licensed professionals who are experts in maintaining and improving skin. An esthetician's general scope of practice is limited to the epidermis. Estheticians work in many different environments such as salons, medi-spas, day spas, skin care clinics, and private practices. Estheticians may also specialize in treatments such as microdermabrasion, microcurrent, cosmetic electrotherapy treatments, LED treatments, ultrasound/ultrasonic, and mechanical massage.An esthetician may undergo special training for treatments such as laser hair removal, permanent makeup application, light chemical peels, eyelash extensions, microblading, and electrology. In the US, estheticians must be licensed in the state in which they are working and are governed by the cosmetology board requirements of that state. Estheticians must complete a minimum 260–1500 hours of training and pass both a written and hands-on exam in order to be licensed in a given state. Utah, Virginia and Washington are the only states at this time to adopt the Master Esthetician License. Additional post graduate training is sometimes required when specializing in areas such as medical esthetics. Estheticians work under a dermatologist's supervision only when employed by the dermatologist's practice. Estheticians treat a wide variety of skin issues that are cosmetic in nature, such as mild acne, hyperpigmentation, and aging skin; therefore, clients with skin disease and disorders are referred to a dermatologist or other medical professional. Estheticians are also referred to as beauticians within North America.
Occupational hazards
Many chemicals in salon products pose potential health risks. Examples of hazardous chemicals found in common treatments include dibutyl phthalate, formaldehyde, lye, ammonia, and coal tar. Allergies and dermatitis have forced approximately 20% of hairdressers to stop practicing their profession.In the beauty and cosmetology industries, some of the products used in hair dyes and nail applications contain chemicals that have been shown to have adverse health effects for cosmetologists. A chemical combination known as the toxic trio is often part of the ingredient list in nail polish, hair dyes, and nail polish removers. The toxic trio consists of formaldehyde, toluene and dibutyl phthalate. DBP is commonly found in nail polish and is used as a binder to increase the amount of time that the polish stays on the nail. Toluene is an industrial solvent and is usually in nail polish removers. Formaldehyde can be found in a variety of beauty products but is generally found in hair straightening products and hair dyes as well as in some nail polishes. Each chemical member of the toxic trio has independently been found to have adverse reproductive effects in humans, so there concern that the presence of all three chemicals in cosmetologist supplies could pose a detrimental health risk for cosmetologists.
Demographics of the cosmetology industry
As a profession, cosmetology is predominantly female, with 30-34 years old being the largest age bracket. There are more than one million women registered and licensed as cosmetologists in the United States and roughly several million more work as hair stylists. Among cosmetologists, hairdressers and nail technicians make up a large part of the working population. Many cosmetologists begin their careers before they begin family planning, which may put them at higher risk for reproductive health effects from exposure to workplace cosmetology chemicals.In the United States the Food and Drug Administration is responsible for public safety regarding cosmetic products and the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act regulates these products. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review utilizes an "Expert Panel" to review available data on cosmetic ingredients and determine whether or not chemical ingredients in cosmetic products are safe to use considering how they are currently utilized. However, this protocol is only helpful if applied to all cosmetology workplaces in the United States.
An investigation carried out by the Environmental Working Group revealed only 11% of more than 10,000 cosmetic ingredients documented by the FDA were evaluated in a CIR review. Research studies have shown that although "toxicological considerations play an increasingly significant role in product formulation; reproductive risks are not typically taken into account. It is also known that, "more than 9,000 chemicals are found in cosmetic products". Hairdressers use a wide range of products containing chemicals. "Hair dyes represent the largest segment of chemical products in the hair market today. As such, they are the main source of chemical exposure among hairdressers".
Chemical exposures
Toluene
is a clear, water insoluble liquid with a distinct and pungent smell, similar to paint thinners. Toluene is found in cosmetic products such as nail polish, nail glue, and hair dyes and is widely used as an industrial solvent and is used to make fingernail polishes, lacquers, adhesives, rubber, and paint thinners. It is used in the production of benzene, gasoline, nylon, plastics, and polyurethane. Toluene can be found on cosmetic labels under the names, benzene, toluol, phenylmethane, and methylbenzene.Toluene enters the environment when materials like fingernail polish, paints, paint thinners, and adhesives are used. It rapidly mixes with the air and individuals who work with paint, lacquer, or dyes have greater exposures to toluene via dermal and respiratory routes. Toluene inhalation during pregnancy has led to neonatal effects, including intrauterine growth retardation, premature delivery, congenital malformations, and postnatal developmental retardation.
Dibutyl phthalate
is a manufactured chemical used as a plasticizer. It is used to make plastics more flexible and can be found in paints, glue, insect repellents, hair spray, nail polish, and rocket fuel. Due to its flexibility and film forming properties, it is an ideal ingredient in cosmetics and cosmetology products. DBP is mainly used in nail products as a solvent for dyes and as a plasticizer that prevents nail polishes from becoming brittle, but is also used in hair sprays, to help avoid stiffness by allowing them to form a flexible film on the hair.Dibutyl phthalate has been linked to reproductive issues in humans if the mother is exposed while pregnant and has been banned for use by the European Union and certain phthalate esters have been shown to cause reproductive toxicity in animal models.
Formaldehyde
is a colorless, strong smelling liquid that is highly volatile, making exposure to both workers and clients potentially unhealthy. Both the Environmental Protection Agency and the Occupational Safety and Health Administration classify formaldehyde as a human carcinogen. Formaldehyde has been linked to nasal and lung cancer, with possible links to brain cancer and leukemia.Growing evidence reveals that various popular hair-smoothing treatments contain formaldehyde and release formaldehyde as a gas. Formaldehyde is a common ingredient in Brazilian blowouts, Cadiveu, and Keratin Complete Smoothing Therapies. Four laboratories in California, Oregon, and Canada, confirmed a popular hair straightening treatment, the Brazilian Blowout, contained between 4% and 12% formaldehyde. Oregon OSHA demonstrated that other keratin-based hair smoothing products also contain formaldehyde, with concentrations from 1% to 7%.
Formaldehyde may be present in hair smoothing solutions or as a vapor in the air. Stylists and clients may inhale formaldehyde as a gas or a vapor into the lungs and respiratory tract. Formaldehyde vapor can also make contact with mucous membranes in the eyes, nose, or throat. Formaldehyde solutions may be absorbed through the skin during the application process of liquid hair straighteners. Solutions of formaldehyde can release formaldehyde gas at room temperature and heating such solutions can speed up this process. Exposure often occurs when heat is applied to the treatment, via blow drying and flat ironing.
Stylists and clients have reported acute health problems while using or after using certain hair smoothing treatments containing formaldehyde. Reported problems include nose-bleeds, burning eyes and throat, skin irritation and asthma attacks. Other symptoms related to formaldehyde exposure include watery eyes; runny nose; burning sensation or irritation in the eyes, nose, and throat; dry and sore throat; respiratory tract irritation; coughing; chest pain; shortness of breath; wheezing; loss of sense of smell; headaches; and fatigue.