Kazuya Hiraide


Kazuya Hiraide was a Japanese ski mountaineer, Alpine climber, and professional mountain cameraman. Hiraide won the Piolet d'Or mountaineering award on four occasions.

Climbing career

Hiraide became a serious mountain climber after joining a mountaineering club at his university. In 2001, he reached the eastern summit of Kula Kangri in Tibet. His list of accomplishments includes first ascents, reaching summits without oxygen, and skiing from mountain peaks. In 2009, he scaled the previously unclimbed southeastern wall of Kamet in India, and with his climbing partner Kei Taniguchi, became the first Japanese to receive the 17th Piolet d'Or Award, the "Academy Award" of mountaineering. He also won three other Piolet d'Or Awards with climbing partner Kenro Nakajima for their first ascent on an uncharted route with Shispare in 2017, Rakaposhi in 2019 and Terich Mir in 2023. He also received the Japan Sports Award, sponsored by the Yomiuri Shimbun newspaper, in 2001 and 2009.
On July 28, 2024, it was reported that Hiraide fell when attempting an ascent of the western face of K2 together with Kenro Nakajima. Two figures were spotted by a rescue helicopter which failed to land next to them and described them as "motionless".
In 2024, Hiraide's wife Joko Hiraide accepted his 2023 posthumous Piolet d'Or award on his behalf.

Selected results

Ski mountaineering

  • 2009:
  • * 1st, [2009 2009 Asian Championship of Ski Mountaineering|Asian Championship of Ski Mountaineering|Asian Championship], relay, together with Mase Chigaya, Sato Yoshiyuki and Suzuki Keiichiro
  • * 4th, Asian Championship, individual
  • * 5th, Asian Championship, vertical race

Mountain climbing

  • 2001
  • * Kula Kangri East Peak, Pakistan, first ascent
  • * Cho Oyu China, summit, ski down from top
  • 2003
  • * Kunyang Chhish, Pakistan, first try, west face
  • 2004
  • * Golden Peak, Pakistan, new route, north west ridge, summit
  • * Lila Peak, Pakistan, new route, east face, summit
  • * Kunlun Mustag, China, new route, summit
  • 2005
  • * Mustag Ata, China, second ascent, east ridge, summit, ski down to west side
  • * Shivling, India, new route, north face to west face, summit
  • 2007
  • * Shispare, Pakistan, first try, north east face
  • 2008
  • * Gasherbrum II, Pakistan, summit
  • * Broad Peak, Pakistan, summit
  • * Kamet, India, new route, south east face, summit
  • 2009
  • * Gasherbrum I, Pakistan, Summit
  • * Gaurishankar, China, first try, east face
  • 2010
  • * Ama Dablam, Nepal, first try, north west face
  • 2011
  • * Everest, Nepal, south side, summit
  • * Naimonanyi, China, new route, south west ridge, summit, south peak, first ascent, first try, south east face
  • 2012
  • * Khan Tengri, Kazakh, north side, summit
  • * Shispare, Pakistan, first try, south west face
  • 2013
  • * Everest, Nepal, summit
  • * Diran, Pakistan, west ridge, summit
  • * Shispare, Pakistan, first try, south west face
  • 2014
  • * Everest, Nepal, south side
  • * Hkakabo Razi, Myanmar, first try, north ridge
  • 2015
  • * Everest, China, north side
  • * Api, Nepal, north side, summit
  • 2016
  • * Everest, China, north side, summit
  • 2017
  • * Shispare, Pakistan, new route, north east face
  • 2019
  • * Rakaposhi, Pakistan, new route, south face
  • 2023
  • *Tirich Mir, Pakistan, new route, north face

Awards