Houlgate


Houlgate is a small tourist resort in northwestern France along the English Channel with a beach and a casino. It is a commune in the Calvados department in the Normandy region.

History

Pre-19th century

Houlgate developed as a hamlet in the commune of Beuzeval. Up until the 19th century, Beuzeval consisted of only a few small houses and farms. On the southern side of the stream was Le Hameau de la Mer, consisting of a few houses, a tile and brick works and a water mill. In 1793, only 204 inhabitants lived in the commune.

19th century: development as a resort

Between 1845 and 1850, sea bathing became popular in Beuzeval. The Pilter family opened the first guesthouse for poorer protestant families in 1851 on Rue Sébastien-de-Neufville. Numbers of tourists gradually increased, first from Caen and then Paris and so a wooden boarding house was built.
The sea-side village was named Beuzeval-les-Bains and attracted much Protestant gentry. The population increased from the 1860s onwards: 270 inhabitants en 1851, 345 in 1861, 515 in 1872 and 1 011 in 1881.
The north bank of the Drochon, larger and flatter, was still undeveloped. A company called the Société de Construction Immobilière was formed in 1858 to develop that area of Beuzeval. The company was formed by three men, a financier, a lawyer and a member of parliament, who bought most of the land, divided it into properties, drew the lines for streets and built a wall protecting the developing town from the sea. Within a few years large villas were built and the quality of build can be seen now as most of these properties still exist.
In 1860, the chapel of Notre-Dame de Houlgate was built. It replaced the old church which was situated too far inland and had become too small to accommodate the growing population.
After the construction and opening of the Grand Hôtel in 1859, the first casino was built and the grandly named "Hydrotherapy" baths which were managed by François Blanc. The baths' aims were to monitor swimmers and to provide cabins. At the time, it was considered imperative to go to a hot bath once out of the sea to resume normal bodily functions. The establishment was not only open to swimmers but also to anyone who wanted a hot seawater bath.
The post office dates from 1894, it housed postal and telegraphic services and the building still in use today, next to the old boys school. Its architect was M.R. Lewicki who also built several mansions on the seafront.
In 1882, the railway arrived in Houlgate, with Houlgate station placed between Dives-sur-Mer and Houlgate. The walk below the cliffs separating Dives-sur-Mer and Houlgate soon became history when the railway line was built along the south side of the estuary of the river Dives. In fact, the railway was built on the retaining wall protecting it from the winter storms and protected a new road built behind it. In 1884 the line to Villers-sur-Mer was finished, linking Houlgate to Paris. It then took 4 hours by train to travel to the Paris Saint-Lazare in Paris and did not require a change of train.

Early 20th century

In 1905, the village took the name of Houlgate, a name which comes from the hill to the north-east of the coastal village. The town continued to grow with more and more hotels and The Promenade was finished in 1911. The town then welcomed many celebrities and royalty.
On September 6, 1912, early French aviator Roland Garros took off from the beach of Houlgate to break the world altitude record. Houlgate named their promenade after Garros in celebration of the town being the location where Garros broke the altitude record.
Like all communes of France, Houlgate experienced a general mobilisation as men were called up to fight in the Great War in 1914. The French Army's 3rd Corps created temporary hospitals and requisitioned all hotels and some large villas. Houlgate became a hospital town where local "Houlgatais" mingled with soldiers who had been wounded on the front.
Tourist activities resumed timidly in 1917. Fortunes had been lost and Houlgate never found the bustle it had experienced during the Belle Époque. The Versailles Treaty was signed on 26 June 1919 and the war ended. In 1921 Houlgate's first mini golf was opened. In 1933, an Alsatian named Laurent Laemlé, created a beach club called the Neptune Club near the casino and quickly opened another one near the Kursaal.

Second World War

With the surrender of France, Houlgate was under German occupation until 21 August 1944. In 1943 the Wehrmacht concentrated on the construction of the Atlantic Wall, laying barbed wire, concrete bunkers, and anti-tank obstacles. In Houlgate this meant the installation of radar and a 155 mm cannon on the Butte de Houlgate. These installations were the target of several aerial and naval attacks between 26 April and 21 August 1944.
The Batterie de Tournebride on the Butte de Houlgate was the objective of Operation Sunstar, a British Commandos raid on the night of 22/23 November 1941.Marcel Miocque et Huguette Vernochet. Houlgate regards sur le passé. p182 Ninety men of No.9 Commando travelled across the English Channel on and landed at the bottom of the Vaches Noires. Retrieved 5 February 2009 The old ferry transported four Assault Landing Crafts which were used for the landing. Four fast gunboats were used to provide cover.
The operation encountered difficulties and did not succeed in destroying the battery position despite being located. It did not succeed in taking any prisoners either but useful information was collected. The commandos escaped on board their ALCs.Marthe Rambaud et Jean-Claude Bosquain. Gonneville-sur-Mer 1939-1945.
By 21 August, the Germans had abandoned the town, and the British Army along with Belgian soldiers of the Brigate Piron entered Houlgate.Marcel Miocque et Huguette Vernochet. Houlgate regards sur le passé. p189

20th century

From October 1944, the long task of demining the beach began. Each site was double checked and it was not uncommon to find mines on the second run. Fifteen deminers were killed during the demining. The de-mining engineers are still remembered and celebrated each year.
The 1960s were marked with an increase in holidaymakers and in the summers, Nestlé kept three amphibious cars, called Nescannard. These rafts were used to ferry children on trips of ten minutes along the coast near the beach.
In 1963 the new établissement des bains was opened.
In 1967 Houlgate's first horse riding club, the Shetland Club, was created. Philippe Bellanger, officer of the Haras Nationaux and Jean Larigauderie opened the club to promote riding that once been part of the history of Houlgate and to lead riders on trips to the beach and to the surrounding countryside. In 1971 the club moved to the Clos Guilllaume where it remains.Marcel Miocque et Huguette Vernochet. Houlgate regards sur le passé. p216, 225-226
1971 also marked the beginning of building of holiday apartments in Houlgate.Marcel Miocque et Huguette Vernochet. Houlgate regards sur le passé. p219-220
In 1974 the Saint-Aubin church received a new pipe organ, the old one was donated to the church in Dives which did not have one until then. The new organ was inaugurated on 19 July 1974 with a concert led by André Marchal. The thirtieth anniversary of the organ was celebrated in 2004 with a concert led by Jean-François Moisson as well as an exhibition by Father Lefèvre.Marcel Miocque et Huguette Vernochet. Houlgate regards sur le passé. p224
The manor in Beuzeval was converted into flats in 1980 and Mr de Lovinfosse bought the grounds and built a 9-hole golf course. Despite hard beginnings, the Countess de Brion, who was made administrator by Mr de Lovinfosse, opened an additional 9 holes. Profits were low and the course was taken over by Blue Green.Marcel Miocque et Huguette Vernochet. Houlgate regards sur le passé. p227
The Avenue de l'Europe was built and opened in 1985, leading from Place Franklin and Rue de la Vallée, near the Clos Guillaume. A new level crossing, n°83b was opened as a result.
In 1997, the Festijazz was created, a festival of jazz music concerts. The 2006 festival included 500 groups playing over three days. Retrieved 3 February 2009
In 2001, a landslide occurred on the Butte de Caumont, the slide left the lighthouse unscathed. Road circulation was hindered during the months spent cleaning the mud from the road.
In 2005, the change of the commune's name to Houlgate was celebrated with a Belle Epoque centenary festival, with many local people, including the mayor, dressed in traditional 1900s clothing. A re-enactment of seine fishing was also part of the festivities, as well as a demonstration of 1900s fire-fighting equipment, old bicycles, a cider delivery cart and a group of 1900s baigneurs.

Etymology

Houlgate is a common variation in Normandy of Norrois origin: "holr gata" "chemin creux". Variations can also be seen in Denmark as "Hulgade" and in the United Kingdom as "Holegate".
In the Middle Ages Beuzeval was called Bovalis, which became Eclesia-de-Bovalis, then Boseval, a name that can be found written as such in 1077. Evolution of the name and variations are classic of Normandy.
Some explain this name as meaning "vallée des Boeufs" ; others give it a Germanic origin. Examples of variations include Beuzeville, Beuzebosc and Beuzemouchel.

Geography

Houlgate is located along the English Channel in the valley of the Drochon. The valley is mostly built up or used for pasture. The town's area is 4.69 km2 and the average altitude 5 m. Despite its low average height, the town contains two hills which form the natural limits of the commune:
  • Butte de Houlgate 123 m
  • Butte de Caumont 103 m
The high parts of the town are covered by Houlgate's two woods: Le Bois de Boulogne on the Butte de Houlgate and Le Bois de la Butte de Caumont.