Hedgelaying
Hedgelaying is the process of partially cutting through and then bending the stems of a line of shrubs or small trees, near ground level, without breaking them, so as to encourage them to produce new growth from the base and create a living ‘stock proof fence’. It is a countryside skill that has been practised for centuries, mainly in the United Kingdom and Ireland, with many regional variations in style and technique.
The first description of hedgelaying is in Julius Caesar's Commentaries on the Gallic War, when his army was inconvenienced by thick woven hedges during the Battle of the Sabis in Belgium. Hedgelaying developed as a way of containing livestock in fields, particularly after the acts of enclosure which, in England, began in the 16th century.
Today hedges are laid to contain livestock without the need for artificial fences, to maintain biodiversity-friendly habitats, to promote traditional skills and to enjoy the pleasing visual effect of a laid hedge.
Benefits
Creating and maintaining hedges provides:- livestock-proof barriers;
- habitat for many species of wildlife
- rejuvenation of existing hedgerows by encouraging them to put on new growth, and thus helping to improve their overall structure and strength;
- control of flood risk, improvement in water quality and reduction in soil erosion;
- weather protection for crops and wildlife; and
- aesthetically pleasing screens to fields and gardens.
Theory and practice
A stem which has been laid down in this manner is known as a pleacher or pleach. A section of bark and some sapwood must be left connecting a pleacher to its roots to keep the pleacher alive — knowing how much is one part of the art of hedgelaying. The angle at which the pleacher is laid is a factor in the build of a hedge. Hedges are built to a height to suit their intended purpose. The height and condition of the trimmed stool, known locally by names such as a stobbin, is vital as this is where the strongest new growth will come from. In time the pleachers will die, but by then a new stem should have grown, from the stool, from ground level. This takes from eight to fifteen years, after which, if the hedge has not been trimmed, the hedgelaying process can be repeated. Hedges can be trimmed for many years after laying before allowing the top to grow to a sufficient height to lay again.
Smaller shoots branching off the pleachers and upright stems too small to be used as pleachers are known as brash or brush. In most styles of laying, the brash is partly removed and partly woven between the pleachers to add cohesiveness to the finished hedge.
At regular intervals upright stakes are placed along the line of the hedge. These stakes give the finished hedge its final strength. Additional strength and a fancy effect is achieved by binding the uprights with hazel whips woven around the tops of the stakes, and cutting off the tops of all the stakes at the same height and at the same angle. The woven whips are known as binders or heatherings; they can be of any green wood such as birch, ash, or willow which will hold the stakes and tops of the pleachers down securely. The stakes and binders used in hedgelaying when properly used provide strength and stability to the hedge. Binders are not applied simply for visual effect, but in competitive hedgelaying, the appearance of the binders is often one criterion for scoring the work.
Traditionally the hedgelayer's tool was a billhook, supplemented with an axe. Nowadays professional hedgelayers often use a chainsaw on larger pleachers.
Local styles
Over the centuries, different areas developed their own distinctive styles of hedgelaying, based on local customs and also on the locally different requirements and available materials.Midland style
Also known as bullock style. This hedge was designed to keep big heavy bullocks in their field. This style is mainly found in Leicestershire, Northamptonshire, Oxfordshire and Warwickshire—traditional beef rearing areas.Typical features of the style are:
- Stake sides face road or plough land.
- Brush is on the animal side to stop them from eating new growth
- Hedge slopes towards the animals, as stakes are driven in behind the line of the roots.
- Strong binding is below the top of the hedge
Derbyshire style
Typical features:
- Square, sawn stakes behind the line of roots.
- Pleachers woven firmly.
- No binding, relies on weaving to keep pleachers in place.
- Brush left the far side.
Double staked styles
Lancashire style
Typical features:- Uses a double row of stakes, placed alternately.
- The most part of each pleacher lies between the two rows of stakes.
- The twiggy bits are pulled to the outside through the stakes, helping to keep everything in place.
- Height varies, from 3' upwards.
Westmorland style
- Single row of stakes down the centre of the hedge which, when the hedge is finished, can no longer be seen.
- Stems go between the stakes so that alternate ones go to opposite sides of the hedge.
- To finish, twigs at each side and on top are twisted together to produce a square shaped hedge.
Brecon style
Typical features:
- Stakes are in the centre of the hedge.
- A lot of stems are cut off and replaced by deadwood—this keeps animals' noses away from the new growth coming from the stumps.
- Pleachers are double brushed and woven round every stake. This bowing covers the stumps, further protecting the new growth. It also hides the stakes.
- The hedge is fairly tall, bound and trimmed square.
Montgomery style
- A wide hedge.
- Half crops are sometimes used on the outside.
- Pleachers are closely woven and the tops are entwined.
- Trimmed square.
- No binding.
South of England style
Derived from the rougher Sussex Bullock Fence it has a double brush style, but the cut base of the pleachers can be seen. Sometimes a pleacher is laid almost flat at the base before the next few are laid at a normal angle, this is presumably to help keep the sheep at bay.Typical features of the style are:
- Stakes are in the centre of the hedge.
- Bindings are used.
- The hedge is trimmed immediately after laying.
Isle of Wight style
Typical features of the style are:
- Style is informal and very wide.
- No binding, stakes at irregular intervals on alternate sides of the hedge.
- Crooked hazel stakes can be made from rejected wands when cutting hazel for other uses.
Yorkshire style
Typical features of the style are:
- A very low hedge, with bushes to provide a barrier to wind. Stems lie so close it is almost impossible to see the twigs branching off.
- Sawn stakes, rail nailed on top—because stakes and binders don't grow very plentifully on windy uplands.
- Brush goes both sides.
West Country hedges
The field is often on the same level as the road. The banks are sometimes faced with stone rather than turf. However these hedges are not walls which have stone all the way through, but are rather an earth bank faced with stone.
Devon style
In Devon, hedgelaying is usually referred to as steeping. The pleachers are known as steepers. They are held in place by crooks. The two sides of the hedge are steeped separately leaving a gap through the centre of the hedge. When steeping is finished any eroded soil is cast up on top of the hedge to retain a good height of bank.In this context, the word hedge derives from an earlier one meaning bank – i.e. the division between strips in the medieval farming system. The association comes from the time when after the 18th century enclosures each man had to dig a ditch as his boundary and pile the soil spoil on his side of the ditch. He then had to plant bushes in order to keep his animals on his own land. This 'digging down and stocking up' was very hard work and as a result when creating internal boundaries, the ditch was often left out but the result was still called a hedge.
Typical features of the style are:
- Steepers tight to the top of the bank.
- Steepers secured by crooks.
- Steepers along the crown of the bank.