Glyceryl octyl ascorbic acid
Glyceryl octyl ascorbic acid is an amphipathic derivative of vitamin C consisting of two ether linkages: a 1-octyl at position 2 and a glycerin at position 3. The chemical name is 2-glyceryl-3-octyl ascorbic acid. The isomer in which these two groups are swapped is also known.
It is considered as a new stable amphipathic in the field of aesthetic medicine.
Overview
Vitamin C is rapidly converted to ascorbic acid radicals by UV rays, which causes cytotoxicity and sunburn, but GO-VC improves the stability of conventional vitamin C derivatives, and thus eliminates the problems of these prooxidants. Water-soluble vitamin C derivatives, such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate, which have been used since the 1990s, have a problem of drying the skin in order to the sebum suppression effect. On the other hand, GO-VC has a high moisturizing power due to the binding of glycerin and can prevent the dryness of the skin. In addition, GO-VC has a sterilizing activity of octanol, so it has a sterilizing activity against many bacteria.GO-VC is also used for wound healing and wrinkle prevention because it has a proliferative effect on fibroblasts and a promoting effect on type I collagen production. GO-VC has a stronger melanin production inhibitory effect than arbutin, which is used as a whitening agent, and it was confirmed in clinical trials that even low concentrations of 0.01 to 0.1% are effective against acne redness and pigmentation.
The water-soluble vitamin C derivatives such as ascorbic acid 2-glucoside and APPS can not add to water-soluble polymer gels commonly used in cosmetics such as carboxy vinyl polymer and sodium polyacrylate. This is because the viscosity changes, causing precipitation. On the other hand, GO-VC can be dispersed in water-soluble polymer gel transparently and uniformly or can be stably dissolved for a long time.
The fat-soluble vitamin C derivatives such as ascorbyl tetrahexyl decanoate are almost insoluble in water, making it difficult to mix in water-soluble formulations such as lotions without the use of surfactants. Fat-soluble vitamin C derivatives causes lipid oxidation problems when lipids are released, and the color of the formulation tends to change. GO-VC can solve these problems almost completely.
GO-VC is well absorbed percutaneously due to its amphiphilic nature, and because it is negatively charged rather than completely non-ionic, it can facilitate percutaneous absorption with an iontophoresis device. In addition, GO-VC is amphipathic but does not have a lipid group, so there are few skin toxicity problems due to lipid peroxidation, and it does not have the sticky feeling of conventional vitamin C derivatives and has a good feel.
Stability
When the aqueous solution containing vitamin C and GO-VC was stored at 50 °C for 90 days, the vitamin C residual amount decreased to less than 30% in 30 days, whereas the residual amount of GO-VC was 90% or more. Moreover, after 90 days, 80% or more of GO-VC was confirmed to remain.It is considered that these high stability are due to the two most reactive hydroxyl groups of vitamin C being capped by glycerin and octanol at the same time. Because the viscosity is stable in the preparation containing GO-VC and the polymer gel too, and it can be kept in a transparent state for a long period of time. Therefore, GO-VC can be added to many preparations such as lotions, creams, serums and gels.