Fanlingpao
', sometimes referred to as ' and in the Tang dynasty when they feature double overturned lapels, is a type of paofu with lapels. It was categorized as Hufu instead of Hanfu due to its association with clothing of the foreigners who came from the Silk road. were first introduced in China during the Northern Wei dynasty and became popular in Northern Qi. The custom of wearing were then inherited and further developed in the Sui and Tang dynasties. The could be transformed into a round collar robe, called yuanlingpao, in the Tang dynasty through the use of buttons. The shows foreign influences, which are mostly likely from the Persian, Sassanian Persian, Iranian Sogdian, and Turkic. were popular fashion during Tang dynasty for both men and women and showed the popularity of Hufu-style clothing during this period; it was considered hufu while yuanlingpao was categorized as a form Hanfu.
Terminology
Double-overturned lapel kaftan-like robe were called and were referred as hufu in the Tang dynasty; was characterized with tight sleeves and double overturned lapels with short overlap which closes at the front in proximity to the centre of the body. The could also be enriched with pattern trims or border decorations at the sleeves cuffs and along the lapels. In appearance, the looks similar to the kaftan with lapels and slim sleeves used by the Persian. This form of lapel robe originated from Central Asia and was typically worn by men.The term was sometimes used to refer to double over-turned with tight sleeves, which overlaps at the front and closes on the right side of the body near the armpit in the Tang dynasty. This form of overlapping closure to the right is a traditional Han Chinese characteristic, which was sometimes adopted by foreigners and/or non-Han Chinese, who had borrowed Chinese elements.
History
Lapels robes originated from Western Asia and were popular in Central Asian in the Sogdian region, in Qiuci, and Gaochang. Lapels robes were spread eastward through the Sogdians. Lapel robes were first introduced in the north region of China during the Northern Wei dynasty. The earliest depictions of Xianbei and Han Chinese people wearing lapel robes in China also date back to the Northern Wei dynasty.The Sogdians, who lived in China, were most influential between the second half of the 6th century and the beginning of the 7th century. The Sogdians and their descendants who lived in China during this period also wore a form of knee-length, yuanlingpao-like kaftan that retained their own ethnic characteristics but also showed some influences from East Asia.
Under the influence and the demands of the Chinese population, as well as Chinese traditions, most Sogdian attire in China had to be closed to the right. Their robes were versatile, it could often be transformed into a yuanlingpao-like robe by buttoning up the neck to form the round collar or occasionally have their lower button undone allowing their collars to be form lapels, becoming lapel robes. The Sogdians in China and Sogdia had both lapels down following the Iranian tradition or the tradition of the Saka people living in the Khotan Oasis. It was however not rare for Chinese Sogdians to wear their robes with only the left lapel, which was a distinguishing feature as the only left lapel robe was rarely found in Sogdia. By the Northern Qi dynasty, lapel robes had become popular in the Han Chinese regions and were worn by both men and women. The wearing custom lapel robes were then inherited and further developed in the Sui and Tang dynasties.