Anfeh


Anfeh, also spelled Enfe, Enfeh or Anfe, is a resort town in the Koura District of the North Governorate of Lebanon. Anfeh borders the towns of Chekka, Al-Qalamoun, Barghoun and Zakroun. It's located north of Beirut and south of Tripoli. Its total area is, and its population is around 6,500.
The people are primarily Greek Orthodox with a minority of Maronite Christians and Sunni Muslim.

History

Remains from at least 3,000 years of human occupation lie tangled among the myrtle and brambles of this 400 meter long and 120m wide peninsula. It is partially separated from the land by two great trenches-dug into the bedrock during the Phoenician period. While Anfeh has witnessed only minor excavation, Phoenician and Roman walls, wine presses, mosaic floors, and two seventh-century-A.D. chapels lie bare beneath the intense sun and wind. This lovely seaside fishing town is known for its ancient churches and caves. Today Anfeh is also known for its salt production. Close to Anfeh is the Crusader-era Abbey of Balamand, which sits on a promontory overlooking the sea

Ancient history

Today's village of Anfeh is built around the ruins of several short-lived cities going back to the pre-Phoenician period. Natural dwelling caves abound on the surrounding hill of Al-Gheer; the original city lies on a small near-island about half a kilometer into the sea. Its outstanding feature is that it is the only town throughout the eastern coast of the Mediterranean to be carved out of its rocky surroundings. Some of the carvings go all the way back to the Phoenician period, and possibly earlier, as witness to the fact that the name of Anfeh appears in the Tell-Amarna tablets of ancient Egypt;. which were sent by the governors of the coastal Canaanite cities to the Pharaohs of Egypt asking for help in repelling Amorites intruders. Letters written by Rib Addi, the King of Byblos, specifically mention the Canaanite city of Anfeh and state that Anfeh, after being occupied by the Amorites, fought with the Amorites against Byblos. Anfeh was conquered by the Assyrian army in the 7th century B.C., when it was known as "Anpa".
The remains of subsequent settlements include dwelling caves, places of worship, cisterns, water tanks and wine presses, as well as steps and roads all carved in the rock. One ancient quarry, known as the Great Trench, was used by the Phoenicians as a dry dock; The Phoenicians used the place as a shipyard for the construction of their vessels, as it was a strategic point on the mediterranean coast.

The Crusades period

The Anfeh peninsula was once a mighty fortress area, including the Crusader castle of Nephin which was originally a Phoenician castle, and a fief of the Counts of Tripoli. The Crusader Lords of Nephin, who were protected behind the walls of Anfeh, the vast rock-cut moat which severed the peninsula from the town, and the sea-swept battlements of their citadel, soon established a reputation as robber barons, the terror of travellers between Jerusalem and Tripoli.
The town itself had a better reputation, for its wines were known and prized far and wide throughout the Latin kingdom in the 12th and 13th centuries. Anfeh entered its glory days during the Medieval era, and most of the archaeological and historical monuments that can be seen today date from this period. Around the 13th century, Anfeh was a small, fortified village surrounded by fertile fields, and it was famous for its wine production. It was one of the lordships of the county of Tripoli, governed by French provincial nobles from the Renoir family. The French Lord was eventually chased out of Anfeh by the Prince Bohemond IV of Antioch, the Lord of Beirut, and the Genoese, and he took refuge in Cyprus.
Anfeh, as a cell or a hive sculptured out of the ground, is surrounded by walls and fortifications of enormous stones hauled from the nearby quarries.
In 1282, Anfeh was part of one of the greatest plots that marked the end of the Crusades. The Lord of Byblos, Guy II Embriaco, the Genoese, and the Knights Templar rose up against the Count of Tripoli Bohemond VII, but they were brutally crushed. Bohemond VII punished the Genoese by blinding them, and he buried alive the Lord of Byblos and his family in the Fort of Anfeh.

Fall of Tripoli

In 1289 Sultan Qalawun suddenly attacked, captured and destroyed Tripoli. The knights who escaped from the burning city to the two remaining coastal castles of Batroun and Nephin were unable to withstand the full fury of the Mamluk army and beat a further retreat to the island kingdom of Cyprus.
Sultan Qalawun destroyed both castles so thoroughly that even the site of Batroun's citadel is lost from history.
With Nephin it was a different story, for here the Crusaders had performed one of the great engineering feats of the Middle Ages. They had cut off the peninsular fortress from Anfeh proper by cutting a great moat, at sea level, all the way across the peninsula, for over 100 yards, through the living rock, leaving only a small spur in the center at the south end to support the castle's drawbridge.

Old Churches

Our Lady of the Wind

Saydet El-Rih in Arabic, the oldest church of Anfeh, was built in the Byzantine era. It is believed that sailors and fishermen from the village of Anfeh built the chapel so that the Virgin Mary would protect them as they sailed the Mediterranean. It has a vaulted nave that ends with an apse oriented toward the east. On the west side, the nave is preceded by a square vaulted room that corresponds today to the entrance of the church. This room was once part of a rectangular hall, which was part of a nursing home that used to be connected to the church. Even though the roof of the chapel has long collapsed, it still retains traces of remaining frescos that are difficult to see. The old frescos depict Saints George and Demitrios, the baptism of the Christ, and the Christ in His Glory with some of the evangelists. The frescos on the south wall represent the Virgin Mary calming a storm.

Deir el-Natour

The Monastery of the Watchman, dating from the Crusades period, is attached to Balamand, the monastery of the Greek Orthodox patriarchate. Deir el-Natour has an interior cloister and the church has been decorated with paintings and frescos executed in Byzantine style by artists from Odessa. Lebanese diva Fayrouz chose Deir el-Natour in 2010, to perform her yearly chants of the holy Friday, in the scenery of the monastery's chapel and surrounding landscape.

Saint Catherine

Built during the Crusades, it is Lebanon's only remaining Romanesque church. The Church of Saint Catherine was originally dedicated to the Holy Sepulcher. The dedication was later changed to Saint Catherine during the 17th century, when the church was restored by local inhabitants. The church is built of sandstone. It has a rectangular vaulted nave with an apse at its east end. There are two main doors, one to the west and the other to the north. A small, vaulted chamber built in the southwest corner of the church can be accessed from the inside of the nave. Another room was built over this chamber and used to be accessed by a swinging ladder. On top of these rooms was the original bell tower. The new bell tower was built in the mid-20th century in a different architectural style. There is also a funerary cave near the church of Saint Catherine, which was transformed into an oratory. It was decorated with a circle inscribed with two Greek letters representing the Christ.

Saint Simeon and the Archangel Gabriel

Built next to the Church of Saint Catherine, this 18th-century church was dedicated to both Saint Simeon and the Archangel Gabriel. Architectural elements typical of the 18th century can be observed in the structure, such as the jars embedded in the ceiling to reduce noise and echo inside the church.

Saint George

It is the biggest and main church of the town. Its dome adds a form to the skyline of Anfeh.

Saint John the Baptist

Mar Youhanna al-Ma'madan in Arabic, is an ancient monastery surrounded by green landscapes and some curious rock cuttings. the site host the Saint John festivals every summer.

Geography

Climate

Anfeh has a Mediterranean climate characterized by four notably different seasons with a moderate nice weather during spring time. Summers are mainly hot, while winters are cold and rainy.
The table below displays average monthly climate indicators in Anfeh based on 8 years of historical weather readings.

Demographics

In 1953, the town had a population of 1,447. Its population is estimated to be around 6,500, not including the thousands of emigrant families and young individuals.

Global Emigration

One of the many Lebanese villages where the number of inhabitants is a speck compared to the number of villagers abroad. Global emigration occurred as far back as the mid 19th century with records showing young men and families migrating to the new world mainly Australia and the Americas. The emigration continues till the present day. Some families are extinct and others are greatly reduced in number. However, in the diaspora, if one visits any major city or town specially in Brazil, Argentina, Qatar, Australia, Canada or the USA one will almost certainly find someone whose ancestors come from this village. During holidays specially summer many of the empty houses are joyfully cleaned and return to life with visiting families.

Religion

In 2014 Christians made up 97.54% of registered voters in Anfeh. 89.60% of the voters were Antiochian Orthodox. There are several historical churches and local shrines throughout the village.

Notable people

  • Farid Makari: Lebanese politician since 1980, He was elected as a member of the Lebanese Parliament in 1992 and reelected in 1996, 2000, 2005 and 2009, he served as information minister in Hariri's second cabinet from 25 May 1995 to 7 November 1996, Former Vice-President of Lebanese Parliament since 2005.