2019 Combined Japan Cup


The 2019 Combined Japan Cup was the second of the competition. It was organized by the JMSCA. It was held from 25 to 26 May 2019 in Saijō city, Ehime Prefecture. The athletes competed in combined format of three disciplines: speed, bouldering, and lead. The winner for men was Tomoa Narasaki and for women was Miho Nonaka.

Competition format

It was held to simulate the latest Olympic combined format. It was also held to decide the athletes to compete in the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships in August.
DisciplinesQualificationsFinals Notes
SpeedAthletes climbed twice in two different lanes on a standardized 15-meter wall. Best times counted.Athletes were seeded based on the speed qualification results. Athletes climbed head-to-head with each other in a bracket format.All competitors ran in the same number of races.
BoulderFour boulder problems. Time limit for each boulder was five minutes.Three boulder problems. Time limit for each boulder was four minutes.Score was determined by number of tops, number of zones, attempts to tops, and attempts to zones in decreasing order of importance.
LeadA single lead route.A single lead route. Time limit to climb the route was six minutes.Score was determined by the highest point reached and the amount of time spent climbing the route.

Athletes were ranked based on their scores in separate disciplines. Points were calculated by multiplying the ranks of each athlete in the three disciplines.

Men

Tomoa Narasaki set a new Japan national record for speed climbing of 6.291s in the finals.

Women

Miho Nonaka set a new Japan national record for speed climbing of 8.499s in the qualifications.