Åland


Åland is an autonomous and demilitarised region of Finland. Receiving its autonomy by a 1920 decision of the League of Nations, it is the smallest region of Finland by both area and population, constituting 0.51% of Finland's land area and 0.54% of its population. Its official language is Swedish and the capital city is Mariehamn.
Åland is situated in an archipelago, called the Åland Islands, at the entrance to the Gulf of Bothnia in the Baltic Sea. It comprises Fasta Åland, on which 90% of the population resides, and about 6,500 skerries and islands to its east, of which about 60–80 are inhabited. Fasta Åland is separated from the coast of Roslagen in Sweden by of open water to the west. In the east, the Åland archipelago is contiguous with the Finnish archipelago. Åland's only land border is located on the uninhabited skerry of Märket, which it shares with Sweden. From Mariehamn, there is a ferry distance of about to Turku, a coastal city of mainland Finland, and also to Stockholm, the capital of Sweden.
Åland's autonomous status means that those provincial powers normally exercised by representatives of the central Finnish Government are largely exercised by its own government. The current demilitarised, neutral position of Åland dates back to the Paris Peace Treaty after the Åland War in the 1850s.

Autonomy

The dispute over Åland's status led to the League of Nations affirming its autonomous status in 1921. This autonomy was reaffirmed in the treaty admitting Finland to the European Union. By law, Åland is politically neutral and entirely demilitarised. Consequently, its residents are exempt from universal male conscription into the Finnish Defence Forces.
The Parliament of Finland initially granted Åland extensive autonomy through the Act on the Autonomy of Åland in 1920. This act was subsequently updated with new versions in 1951 and 1991. The constitution of Finland refers to this act, establishing it as the basis for Åland's specific constitutional framework. The Act also mandates that Åland remains exclusively Swedish-speaking.
Åland held a separate referendum on joining the European Union on 20 November 1994, as it constituted a distinct customs jurisdiction. Membership was approved by 73.64% of voters. Finland's accession treaty includes a specific protocol for Åland. This protocol ensures that EU law does not override existing restrictions on non-residents acquiring or holding real property, or providing certain services within Åland.

Etymology

Åland's hypothetical name in the Proto-Norse language was *Ahvaland. The Proto-Germanic root is related to the Latin word for water, aqua. In Swedish, the name evolved from Áland to Åland, meaning "river land"—despite rivers not being a notable feature of the archipelago.
The Finnish and Estonian names for the region, Ahvenanmaa and Ahvenamaa, are believed to preserve an alternative version of the old name.
Several theories exist regarding the origin of the Finnish name Ahvenanmaa. Some suggest it is a Finnish adaptation of the Swedish name Åland, others that it is the original form from which Åland developed, and some that it emerged independently.
The official name, Landskapet Åland, means "the Region of Åland." The word landskap is a cognate of the English "landscape."

History

People from the Comb Ceramic culture began settling the Åland Islands around 7000 years ago, after the land started rising from the sea following the last Ice Age. Åland became a meeting point for two Neolithic cultures: the Comb Ceramic culture and the later Pit–Comb Ware culture, which spread from the west.
During the Stone Age and Bronze Age, people lived by hunting seals and birds, fishing, and gathering plants. Farming also began early. There have also been archaeological discoveries that claim to show evidence of human cannibalism during the Stone Age in Åland. From the Iron Age, six hillforts remain on Åland. More than 380 burial sites from the Viking Age have been documented.
Construction of Kastelholm Castle began in the 1380s. In 1505, Danish naval officer Søren Norby captured it during a raid. The Kastelholm witch trials were held there in 1665 and 1668.
The coat of arms of Åland was originally meant for the Swedish island of Öland in 1560 but was assigned to Åland by mistake. It shows a golden red deer on a blue field. Traditionally, it is topped with a comital coronet from the older Swedish heraldic style.
In 1809, Sweden ceded Åland and Finland to the Russian Empire under the Treaty of Fredrikshamn. The islands became part of the Grand Duchy of Finland, which existed until 1917. Sweden had hoped Åland would remain unfortified, but no such clause was included.
In 1832, Russia began building the fortress of Bomarsund on Åland. During the Crimean War in 1854, British and French forces captured and destroyed it. The Treaty of Paris then demilitarised the archipelago. Russia later remilitarised Åland during World War I to guard against a German invasion.
In 1918, during the Finnish Civil War, Swedish troops landed on Åland as a peacekeeping force between Russian soldiers and Finnish White and Red forces. Soon after, German troops occupied the islands at the request of the Finnish White Senate. The only major battle was the near the village of Godby in Finström.
After 1917, Ålanders campaigned to join Sweden. In 1919, a petition signed by 96.4% of voters supported leaving Finland and uniting with Sweden. This was partly due to anti-Swedish policies in Finland and growing Finnish nationalism, driven by the country’s struggle against attempts of Russification. The long-standing conflict between Finland's Swedish- and Finnish-speaking communities added to Ålanders' concerns.
Finland rejected the petition but offered Åland autonomy. Ålanders refused, and the case went to the League of Nations in 1921. The League ruled that Finland would keep sovereignty but must give Åland political autonomy. A key diplomat behind the decision was Nitobe Inazō, an Under-Secretary General of the League and director of the International Committee on Intellectual Cooperation.
The Åland convention of 20 October 1921, signed by Sweden, Finland, and several European countries, was the League's first major international agreement. It guaranteed Ålanders' rights to their language, culture, and traditions, and declared Åland a neutral and demilitarised zone.
Åland's Regional Assembly held its first session in Mariehamn on 9 June 1922. That day is now celebrated as Self-Government Day of Åland.
Because of its neutral status, Åland's merchant fleet could sail for both the Allies and Nazi Germany during World War II. Ships were generally not attacked, as their destinations and cargoes were often unknown.
In 2006, Finland marked 150 years of Åland's demilitarisation by issuing a €5 commemorative coin. The obverse shows a pine tree, common in Åland, while the reverse depicts a boat's stern and rudder with a dove on the tiller—symbolising 150 years of peace.

Politics

Self-government

Åland's political system is based on the Act on the Autonomy of Åland and related international agreements. These guarantee Åland wide-ranging self-rule, while Finland retains ultimate sovereignty. The Government of Åland is responsible to the Parliament of Åland under a parliamentary system. As Åland's autonomy predates Finland's current regional system, it also performs many functions handled by regional councils in mainland Finland.

Elections and parties

Åland holds one seat in the Parliament of Finland. Its political system operates separately from mainland Finland's and includes distinct parties such as the Future of Åland, which advocates full independence.

Public services and symbols

Åland maintains its own flag and operates its postal service through Åland Post since 1984. Åland Post is part of the Small European Postal Administration Cooperation network.
The region also has its own police force and is an associate member of the Nordic Council. Åland also uses distinct call sign prefixes for amateur radio.

Civil rights

Homeschooling is permitted in Åland, attracting families from Sweden, where stricter regulations apply.
Authorities planned to introduce internet voting for overseas voters in the 2019 parliamentary election, with broader use considered for 2023. The project was later abandoned due to security concerns.

European Union

Åland held a separate referendum on European Union membership on 20 November 1994. With majority support, it joined the EU alongside Finland in 1995. The Åland Protocol defines a special relationship, granting exceptions for land ownership, local business laws, and tax regulations. Åland is treated as a third-country territory for taxation, allowing duty-free sales on ferries between Åland, Finland, and Sweden.

Administration

Governor and state office

The State Department of Åland represents Finland's national government in the region and manages tasks that in mainland Finland are handled by regional agencies. Before 2010, these duties belonged to the Åland State Provincial Office.
The Governor is appointed by the President of Finland after consulting the Lagting Speaker. If no agreement is reached, the Lagting proposes five candidates for the President to choose from.

Municipalities

Åland comprises 16 municipalities, with over 40% of residents concentrated in the capital Mariehamn.
2024 population statistics. Arrows denote demographic trends since the 2023 census.