Tobermore
Tobermore, ) is a small village in County Londonderry, Northern Ireland named after the townland of Tobermore. The village, which has a predominantly Protestant population, lies south-south-west of Maghera and north-west of Magherafelt. Tobermore is within the civil parish of Kilcronaghan and is part of Mid-Ulster District. It was also part of the former barony of Loughinsholin.
Tobermore has won the Best Kept Small Village award four times and the Best Kept Large Village award in 1986. In September 2011, Tobermore won the Translink Ulster in Bloom village category for the third year in a row.
Etymology
Tobermore is named after the townland of Tobermore which is an anglicisation of the Irish words tobar meaning "well" and mór meaning "big/great", thus Tobermore means "big/great well". During the seventeenth century, Tobermore was also known as Tobarmore and Tubbermore, with Tubbermore being the preferred usage of the Masonic Order even to this day.Topography
Tobermore lies on the descending slope of Slieve Gallion. Prominent hills are: Calmore Hill, ; and Fortwilliam, high.A large oak tree called the Royal Oak grew near Calmore Castle in Tobermore. Until it was destroyed in a heavy storm, the Royal Oak was said to have been so large that horsemen on horseback could not touch one another with their whips across it. From this vague description, it is conjectured that the Royal Oak was about in diameter or in circumference. Another oak tree that once grew near Tobermore was so tall and straight that it was known as the Fishing Rod. Tradition is that all of the townlands were once covered with magnificent oak trees.
The Moyola River runs from west to east half a mile to the north of Tobermore village, heading through the townlands of Ballynahone Beg and Ballynahone More. In these two townlands lies Ballynahone Bog, one of the largest lowland raised bogs in Northern Ireland.
History
Origins
The earliest reference to the actual settlement of Tobermore is in the mid-18th century of a house built in 1727 that belonged to a James Moore. At some point in the 18th century, the fair that was held at the Gort of the parish church was relocated to Tobermore, which is described as consisting of only Moore's house and a few mud huts. The development and growth of the village can be traced back to this period.Pre-modern history
Fortwilliam Hill
Fortwilliam Hill is situated between the Fortwilliam, Lisnamuck, and Maghera roads in Tobermore, overlooking the River Moyola. Upon it lies Fortwilliam rath, which was built c. 700–1000 AD, and Fortwilliam House, a listed building, built in 1795 by John Stevenson Esq of "The Stevensons the Linen People". The rath was historically known under variations of Donnagrenan, which is most likely derived from the Irish Dún na Grianán, meaning "fort of the eminent place". Its modern name like that of the adjacent house were bestowed upon them by Mr. Jackson, who named it after Fort William, Scotland, which was named in honour of King William III in 1690. A contradictory reason mentioned by John O'Donovan is that the O'Hagans of Ballynascreen claimed it was built and named for Sir William O'Hagan, however, O'Donovan discounts their claims due to other claims they make that are contrary to reality.Fortwilliam rath is presently described as a well-preserved semi-defensive high status monument, built to withstand passing raids, being relatively large at 30 meters in diameter. It is also declared a monument of regional importance giving it statutory protective status. Fortwilliam House was described by John MacCloskey in 1821 as having a commanding position and being amongst the most pleasing of buildings and the most prominent in the district.
Kilcronaghan parish church
Presbyterian congregation
The first Presbyterian congregation that serviced Tobermore and the general Loughinsholin barony area was founded in Knockloughrim in 1696.In 1736, an application was made to the Presbyterian Synod of Ulster to create a congregation in Tobermore. This initial request was denied as it would have depleted the congregation in neighbouring Maghera. In 1737 a renewed application was made with "such a strong case" put forward it was accepted by the Synod.
It was requested that some of the people who would fall under the new congregation be at least eight miles from Maghera.
The boundaries between the congregations of Maghera and Tobermore were to be the Moyola River, from Newforge Bridge to Corrin Bridge. In 1743 however, nineteen families from Ballynahone, which straddles the Moyola River, were transferred from Maghera into the Tobermore congregation. The fourth minister of the Tobermore congregation, the Reverend William Brown, saw the need for the formation of a new congregation in Draperstown and facilitated its development in 1835 despite meaning losing around 70 families from his Tobermore congregation.
Volunteers and yeomanry
In November 1780, a meeting was convened of the Tobermore Volunteer company, commanded by John Stevenson, at which the Reverend James Whiteside preached.At several points during the 19th century, the British parliament commissioned reports listing the Yeomanry officers of Ireland. For Tobermore the following are listed:
- 1804 report - Kilcronaghan division of the Loughinsholin Battalion: Captain James Stephenson, commissioned 5 November 1803; Lieutenant Robert Bryan, commissioned 13 March 1804; and Samuel M'Gown, also commissioned on 13 March 1804.
- 1825 report - Tobermore corps: Captain James Stevenson, commissioned 18 November 1808. No lieutenants are listed.
- 1834 report - "Tobbermore" corps: Captain James Stevenson, commissioned 18 November 1808; Lieutenant John Stevenson, commissioned 5 March 1831; and Lieutenant H. Stevenson.
Non-payment of rents
A chancery lawsuit going on between Ball and Co. of Dublin and Sir George Hill operated as an obstruction to the improvement of the village as it stood upon the estate disputed with non-payment of rents. The main reason for the non-payment was that the tenants didn't believe they had sufficient security in their rent receipts to prevent repetition for the same year's rent.
During the same period, it is noted that there was no illicit distillation of alcohol and no outrages for many years in the village except for a few assaults in the street on those who came to collect the rent. After the repayment of rents resumed it was remarked that "they were so long free of rent, none of them became in the end, the least degree richer", this may have been because as it was also remarked "their rent money which if saved every year would have secured some of them a comfortable competence found its way to the whiskey shops of the village and neighbourhood".
Orange and Temperance Hall
Tobermore Orange and Temperance Hall was built in 1888 by Andrew Johnston of Aghagaskin, Magherafelt. It is used for band practices and also by several organisations: Orange Order lodges 131 and 684; Royal Black Preceptory lodge 390; the Tobermore Walker Club of the Apprentice Boys of Derry; and Tobermore Masonic Lodge.Modern history
Home Rule
The major issue in Ireland at the end of the nineteenth century and the start of the twentieth century was Irish Home Rule. In 1893 Viscount Templeton formed the first Unionist Clubs to coordinate opposition against Home Rule. Hiram Parkes Wilkinson, the son of Sir Hiram Shaw Wilkinson, would found the Tobermore Unionist Club.The Rev. J. Walker Brown in 1912 released an anti-Home Rule pamphlet titled The Siege of Tobermore, where he details how best to defend Tobermore should "the enemy" march upon the village in a manner similar to that of the Siege of Derry.
Tobermore also receives a mention in the third verse of the anti-Home Rule ballad titled The Union Cruiser.
World War I
During World War I, 121 inhabitants of Tobermore, out of a population of around 350, enlisted with the Ulster Division, with the Mid Ulster Mail reporting that "This loyal little village has a war record that is perhaps unique". Of those who enlisted, 24 were killed and 33 were wounded.The names of those who volunteered are preserved on a Roll of Honour painted by local man, Samuel Nelson, and was unveiled by Denis Henry, MP for South Londonderry. This Roll of Honour resides in Tobermore Orange & Temperance Hall.
In Tobermore's Presbyterian graveyard lies the headstone of Bobbie Wisner, who died of natural causes at home in 1915. As he had trained and drilled with his adult comrades in the 36th Ulster Division, and was held in such high esteem, he was buried with full military honours.
Anglo-Irish War
During the period of the Belfast Troubles, there was an attempt on 2 April 1921 to blow up the bridge over the Moyola River outside Tobermore. On 19 March 1922 the bridge was again damaged by explosives. Four days later a flax mill was burned down also.In response, the Orange Hall on Main Street effectively became a barracks used by members of the Ulster Special Constabulary. Sandbagged positions were set up in the centre of the village, with 17 men mobilized to form the local platoon.
On 26 May of that year the makeshift barracks was briefly attacked by the Irish Republican Army. No casualties were reported after police returned fire and the IRA men withdrew, though it was later felt necessary to fit steel shutters to the windows. The specials platoon lasted for six months before being stood down.