Sfenj
Sfenj is a Maghrebi doughnut: a light, spongy ring of dough fried in oil. Sfenj is eaten plain, sprinkled with sugar, or soaked in honey. It is a well-known dish in the Maghreb and is traditionally made and sold early in the morning for breakfast or in the late afternoon accompanied by tea—usually Maghrebi mint tea—or coffee. The term Sfenj is used in Algeria and other parts of the Maghreb. It is called bambalouni in Tunisia, and Sfenz in Libya and Maghrebi Judeo-Arabic dialects. In Morocco, the term "Sfenj" is used, also sometimes nicknamed in the literature "Moroccan doughnuts". It is also called Khfaf or ftayr in Algeria, and is sometimes also dubbed as the "Algerian doughnut".
History
Sfenj originated in Al-Andalus. According to legend, Sfenj was created by mistake, when a baker accidentally dropped a ball of dough into a pan of hot oil. Sfenj was an important part of Andalusi culture, whose role was best summarised by a verse from a contemporary poet: "The Sfenj bakers are worth as much as kings".It is unclear how Sfenj first spread to the Maghreb, although it is said to have been well known to the Marinid Dynasty, which ruled Morocco from 1270 to 1465. It spread to France during the 13th century, where it inspired beignets. Sfenj were only sweetened with sugar starting in the 18th century, even though sugarcane has been widely cultivated in the Arab world since the 8th century. Before that, they were sweetened with honey or syrup, or simply served plain.
Although Sfenj comes from Al-Andalus, most bakers and sellers of Sfenj in the Maghreb have traditionally been Amazigh. The nomadic Amazigh are thought to have spread Sfenj throughout the Maghreb, aided in that by merchants who traveled across the region.
The chef Mustafa an-Nakīr remarks that head meat with Sfenj was a popular breakfast in Marrakesh in his grandparents' time.
Dedicated Sfenj bakers, called sufnāj, soon appeared throughout the Maghreb, attesting to the dessert's popularity. Sufnājeen became central figures in the social life of Maghrebi neighborhoods, as they interacted with almost every household in their community every morning, and working as a sufnāj was considered a respectable career. In a traditional Sfenj bakery, the sufnāj sit on an elevated platform, raised slightly above the rest of the bakery, which is already raised more than a meter off the ground. Customers surround this platform and try to catch the sufnāj
Traditional sufnājeen are quickly going extinct in the modern Maghreb, as a result of the rise of industrial bakeries and the proliferation of Sfenj recipes over the Internet blogosphere.
Varieties
In addition to ordinary Sfenj, there are two special varieties of Sfenj, not counting the different toppings Sfenj can have:- Sfenj matifiyya, Sfenj that is pounded flat and then fried a second time
- Sfenj matifiyya bil-baydh, Sfenj matifiyya with an egg added before refrying
Libya
Sfenj can also be prepared with a fried egg in the center. The egg can be runny or hard, and is often topped with cheese.
Israel
Sfenj entered Israeli culture before 1948, as Maghrebi Jews brought it with them when they immigrated to the Land of Israel. Sfenj quickly became popular for Hanukkah, as it is easy to prepare at home.Idiomatic use
Sfenj's importance to Moroccan culture is reflected in several idioms in Moroccan Arabic, including:- "Give someone a Sfenj and he'll say it's ugly", meaning "do not judge a book by its cover" or "do not bite the hand that feeds you."
- "As if hitting a dog with a Sfenj", meaning a futile or Sisyphean endeavor, especially an act of pointless petty revenge.
- "Demanding oil from a sufnāj", meaning "taking from the needy".