Porthmadog

Porthmadog, originally Portmadoc until 1972 and known locally as "Port", is a coastal town and community in the Eifionydd area of Gwynedd, Wales, and the historic county of Caernarfonshire. It lies east of Criccieth, south-west of Blaenau Ffestiniog, north of Dolgellau and south of Caernarfon. The community population was 4,185 in the 2011 census and was put at 4,134 in 2019. It grew in the 19th century as a port for local slate, but as the trade declined, it continued as a shopping and tourism centre, being close to Snowdonia National Park and the Ffestiniog Railway. The 1987 National Eisteddfod was held there. It includes nearby Borth-y-Gest, Morfa Bychan and Tremadog.

History

Porthmadog came about after William Madocks built a sea wall, the Cob, in 1808–1811 to reclaim much of Traeth Mawr from the sea for farming use. Diversion of the Afon Glaslyn caused it to scour out a new natural harbour deep enough for small ocean-going sailing ships, and the first public wharves appeared in 1825. Quarry companies followed, with wharves along the shore almost to Borth-y-Gest, while slate was carted from Ffestiniog down to quays along the Afon Dwyryd, then boated to Porthmadog for transfer to seagoing vessels.
File:WA Madocks.jpg|thumb|upright|left|William Madocks built a sea wall, the Cob, to reclaim Traeth Mawr for agriculture.
In the later 19th century, Porthmadog flourished as a port, its population rising from 885 in 1821 to over 3,000 by 1861. The rapidly growing cities of England needed high-quality roofing slate, which was brought to the new port by tramway from quarries in Ffestiniog and Llanfrothen. The Ffestiniog Railway opened in 1836, followed by the Gorseddau Tramway in 1856 and the Croesor Tramway in 1864. By 1873 over 116,000 tons were exported through Porthmadog in over a thousand ships. Several shipbuilders were active at this time. They were known particularly for their three-masted schooners called Western Ocean Yachts, the last of which was launched in 1913.
By 1841 the trackway across the reclaimed land had been straightened. It would develop into Stryd Fawr, the main commercial street of the town, with a range of shops and public houses and a post office, but the open green retained. A mineral railway to Tremadog ran along what would become Heol Madog. To the north was an industrial area of foundries, timber saw mills, slate works, a flour mill, a soda-pop plant and gasworks.
Porthmadog's role as a commercial port, already reduced by the opening of the Aberystwith and Welsh Coast Railway in 1867, was effectively ended by the First World War, when the lucrative German market for slate collapsed. The 19th-century wharves survive, but the slate warehouses have been replaced by holiday apartments and the harbour is used by leisure yachts.

Toponymy

The name Porthmadog derives from its English spelling, Portmadoc, the official name until 1972. This was a conjunction of Port and Madocks, although some believe it is named after a folklore character, Madog ab Owain Gwynedd, whose name appears also in Ynys Fadog.
The earliest references to Port Madoc are from the 1820s in reference to shipping, well before the opening of the Ffestiniog Railway and the town's later growth. The name first appeared on an Ordnance Survey map in 1838.

Governance

There are two tiers of local government covering Porthmadog, at community and county level, with both councils using Welsh as their primary language: Cyngor Tref Porthmadog and Cyngor Gwynedd. The town council meets at Y Ganolfan, a community centre on High Street adjoining the harbour bridge. The building also incorporates the town's tourist information centre.
From 1950 to 2010, Porthmadog was part of Caernarfon parliamentary constituency. In 2010 the town became part of the Dwyfor Meirionnydd constituency. In the Senedd, it has since 2007 formed part of Dwyfor Meirionnydd constituency. It is represented by Mabon ap Gwynfor. It forms part of the electoral region of Mid and West Wales.

Administrative history

The Porthmadog area historically formed part of the parish of Ynyscynhaiarn. The parish church was St Cynhaearn's Church, which stands in an isolated location west of Porthmadog. The parish was in two separate parts: an eastern part including the Porthmadog and Tremadog area, and a western part which included the parish church and the village of Pentrefelin. The small parish of Treflys separated the two parts of Ynyscynhaiarn parish. Ynyscynhaiarn formed part of the ancient commote of Eifionydd, which in 1284 was made part of the new county of Caernarfonshire under the Statute of Rhuddlan.
Following the development of Porthmadog and neighbouring Tremadog in the early 19th century, there was a need for more formal structures of local government. In 1858 the parish of Ynyscynhaiarn was made a local board district, governed by an elected local board. Such local board districts were reconstituted as urban districts under the Local Government Act 1894. In 1896 the western part of Ynyscynhaiarn, which was known as the township of Uwchyllyn, was transferred to the parish of Treflys, leaving the reduced parish and urban district of Ynyscynhaiarn just covering the eastern part of the old parish, which included Porthmadog and Tremadog.
In 1915 the county council changed the urban district's name from Ynyscynhaiarn to Portmadoc at the urban district council's request. In 1934 part of the area was transferred to Dolbenmaen and a smaller area was taken in from Treflys, which was abolished. The urban district council changed the official spelling of the name from Portmadoc to Porthmadog at a meeting on 9 May 1972.
Porthmadog Urban District was abolished in 1974 under the Local Government Act 1972. A community called Porthmadog was created instead, covering the area of the abolished urban district. District-level functions passed to Dwyfor District Council, which was in turn replaced in 1996 by Gwynedd Council.

Geography

Porthmadog lies in Eifionydd, on the estuary of the Afon Glaslyn, where it runs into Tremadog Bay. The estuary, filled with sediment deposited by rivers emptying from the melting glaciers at the end of the last ice age, is a haven for migrating birds. Oystercatchers, redshanks and curlews are common, as are summer flocks of sandwich terns. To the west looms Moel y Gest, rising above the town as a Marilyn.
The town's temperate maritime climate is influenced by the Gulf Stream. The nearest weather station is at Cwmystradllyn. The highest temperature recorded since 1993 was on 19 July 2022 and the lowest was on 6 January 2009.

Month	Average high	Average low	Average precipitation
January	7.0 °C	2.5 °C	18.13 cm
February	7.6 °C	2.2 °C	15.38 cm
March	9.3 °C	3.1 °C	14.50 cm
April	11.9 °C	4.5 °C	11.64 cm
May	14.9 °C	7.6 °C	11.34 cm
June	17.0 °C	10.0 °C	13.59 cm
July	18.2 °C	12.2 °C	16.02 cm
August	18.8 °C	11.8 °C	16.52 cm
September	16.3 °C	9.5 °C	17.32 cm
October	13.4 °C	7.4 °C	20.68 cm
November	10.2 °C	4.7 °C	21.91 cm
December	7.9 °C	2.6 °C	21.80 cm

Villages

Borth-y-Gest

Borth-y-Gest, south of Porthmadog, is built in a shallow bowl sweeping down to a sheltered bay, with hidden sandy coves and cliffs. Ships were built here before Porthmadog was established and houses, still known as "pilot houses", were erected at the mouth of the harbour so that pilots could watch for ships needing them. The village and its rows of Victorian houses have retained much of its atmosphere and charm. Stryd Mersey leads up from the bay, flanked by terraced cottages.
Before Porthmadog was developed, this was the starting point of a major crossing over the wide and dangerous Glaslyn estuary. Locals earned money by guiding travellers across the treacherous sands of Traeth Mawr to Harlech.
Parc y Borth is a local nature reserve in deciduous woodland dominated by ancient Welsh oaks. Green woodpeckers, tawny owls and pied flycatchers can be seen among the branches.
On the shore is another nature reserve, Pen y Banc, a mixture of coastal rocks, secluded sandy coves and mixed woodland. Established in 1996, it is a good spot to see wading birds. Its beaches attract many visitors. The mild climate results in a wide variety of vegetation, from gorse and heather through to blackthorn, crab apple, and birch.

Morfa Bychan

, south-west of Porthmadog, has a wide beach, Black Rock Sands, with Graig Ddu, a rocky headland, at its western end. At low tide, rock pools and caverns are exposed. The beach is popular with windsurfers, and is unusual in allowing vehicles onto the sands.
Sand dunes behind the beach form part of Morfa Bychan and Greenacres Nature Reserve. Standing in a field is Cist Cerrig, a dolmen, near which are rocks containing cup marks.
In 1996 there were protests backed by Cymdeithas yr Iaith Gymraeg against the building of 800 houses at Morfa Bychan. These followed a High Court decision that planning permission granted in 1964 remained valid. The owners of the site later entered a legal agreement with Cyngor Gwynedd, allowing a caravan site and nature reserve to be placed on part of the site, which ensured that the 1964 permit could no longer be implemented. The council also settled a compensation claim by developers for the way the matter had been handled.