Gwaha-ju
Gwaha-ju is a traditional Korean fortified rice wine. The refined rice wine cheongju is fortified by adding the distilled spirit soju to produce gwaha-ju. Popular varieties include gangha-ju of Boseong and Yeonggwang in South Jeolla Province, sinseon-ju of Namwon in North Jeolla Province, and yak-soju of Suwon in Gyeonggi Province.
Name
The word gwaha-ju consists of three syllables: gwa meaning "to pass" or "to last", ha meaning "summer", and ju meaning "alcoholic beverage". The name suggests that the rice wine retains its flavor after the hot and humid summer, due to the fortification.Regional varieties of gwaha-ju are called by their own regional names such as gangha-ju, sinseon-ju, and yak-soju.
Other names mentioned in old documents include gwaha-baekju in Sanga Yorok, a mid-15th century cookbook, and ohyang-soju in Imwon gyeongjeji, an 1827 encyclopedic compilation.
History
Gwaha-baekju was first mentioned in Sanga Yorok, a mid-15th century cookbook, but the rice wine was made without fortification. The earliest recorded recipe for fortified gangha-ju appears in Ŭmsik timibang, a 1670 cookbook. Other Joseon books that mention the fortified rice wine include Jubangmun, Chisaeng yoram, Yeokjubangmun, Eumsikbo, Sallim kyŏngje, Chŭngbo sallim kyŏngje, Kyuhap ch'ongsŏ, and Imwon gyeongjeji.Gwaha-ju was a devised product for hot and humid summers in the Korean Peninsula, during which regular cheongju was hard to brew and easily spoiled, and regular soju was too strong. The fortified rice wine was a luxurious prestige drink made in the wealthy households of yangban gentries in the early 15th century, but gradually spread and became popular among commonality.
Many legacy gwaha-ju recipes disappeared due to the harsh periods of Korea under [Japanese rule|Japanese forced occupation] and the Korean War. Today, only a few regional varieties such as gangha-ju of Boseong and Yeonggwang in South Jeolla Province, sinseon-ju of Namwon in North Jeolla Province, and yak-soju of Suwon in Gyeonggi Province, survive, with the recipes being transmitted within families.
Varieties and brewing
A recipe for gwaha-ju in the 17th century cookbook Ŭmsik timibang states:A bottle of boiled and cooled water is added to nuruk powder and set aside overnight, strained with additional sterile water. A mal of glutinous rice is steamed, cooled, and mixed with the nuruk-solution. After 3 days of primary fermentation, 20 bokja of soju is added to the rice wine. The fortified rice wine is consumed after 7 days of secondary fermentation.
A recipe for gwaha-ju in the 1809 encyclopaedia Kyuhap ch'ongsŏ states:
1–2 doe of white non-glutinous rice is cooked into beombeok, cooled, and mixed with nuruk powder. A mal of glutinous rice is steamed, cooled, and mixed with the nuruk mixture. After 7 days of primary fermentation, 20 bokja of soju is added to the rice wine.
Today, family recipes passed down through generations usually utilize various medicinal herbs as supplementary ingredients. A recipe in the 1827 document Imwon gyeongjeji states that ohyang-soju is made by: "brewing rice wine with cooked glutinous rice and nuruk ; adding powdered herbs such as sandalwood, costus, snowparsley, and clove, as well as whole walnuts and jujubes and soju after the primary fermentation; sealing hermetically for the secondary fermentation; opening the wine jar after 7 days and sealing again; and letting age for 29 days."