Durumagi
' is a variety of, or overcoat, in, the traditional Korean attire. It is a form of outerwear that is usually worn as the topmost layer of clothing over a and .
It also goes by the names ', ', or ',
The name Durumagi is derived from the fact that it is 'closed all around,' distinguishing it from other types of po which typically have slits.
Originating from the Hobok, the Durumagi has been worn from the Three Kingdoms period to the present day. Once a narrow-sleeved everyday garment, it was elevated to ceremonial status during the reign of King Gojong of the Joseon Dynasty. For the first time in history, it became a formal outfit worn equally by everyone, regardless of gender, age, or social status.
History
The origin of traces back to at least the Three Kingdoms of Korea, where it originated from a long coat worn by the northern nomadic peoples to fend off cold weather in ancient times.According to Samuel Lee, the origins of the can be traced back to the Goguryeo period:
However, what is now known as the is part of the indigenous attire of the Korean people:
Based on the Goguryeo mural paintings found near Pyeongyang, such as the early 5th century murals from , the ancient worn by the owner of tomb was red in colour:
The murals show a mixture of elements from before and after the fifth century; the wide-sleeves also reflect the characteristics of tomb murals that are found near the Pyeongyang area. The ancient was also worn with a waist belt and had wide sleeves.
Goryeo
During the Goryeo period, Mongolian influences caused the to change in appearance. Not only was the waist belt changed into a, the traditional 's short length and wide sleeves were lengthened and narrowed to the style of the Mongolian coat,, of which the name is said to be derived.Joseon period
During the Joseon dynasty, the was less worn as an overcoat but more of a housecoat for the noble class, whereas it was worn outdoors by the commoners. In 1884, King Gojong promulgated the unification of clothing for all social classes through reform laws. However, this law was met with much resistance and it was only until ten years later, after the Gabo Reform of 1894, that the became common as formal attire.Construction and design
The is an overcoat, which is closed all around, lacking side and back vents. It has a straight collar with front overlapping front panels closing to the right, side gores, chest ties, neckband and narrow sleeves; its length is about under the calves and above the ankles.Different fabrics and materials are used in making : calico, wool, cotton, and various silks for winter; ramie, fine ramie and silk gauze for summer; various silks and calico for spring and autumn. White, grey and navy blue are commonly used.