Yunjian
, also known as Cloud collar in English and sometimes referred as châr-qâb, is a Chinese term which can either to a four-lobed motif, or to a traditional Chinese garment accessory item in, the Traditional clothing of the Han Chinese, which is typically found in the form of a detachable collar with cloud patterns and is worn over the shoulders area, similar to a shawl. As an garment accessory, the is also typically found in four-lobed design although multi-lobed design also existed throughout history. The could also be applied directly on garments, where it would fall around the collar of robes onto the chest and shoulder region,or as a clothing appliqué. In China, the has both ceremonial and practical uses when used in clothing. As a garment item, the was an important clothing element for Chinese women, especially in the Ming and Qing dynasties; its usage was spread across China where it became associated with the Han Chinese's wedding clothing. In Henan, brides would wear decorated with hanging ribbons and bells. It also had the practical use of preventing clothing from being dirty and oily by covering up the clothes and by covering up the stains. The is used in Peranakan wedding; the multi-layered worn by Chinese brides on the day of their wedding is sometimes known as "phoenix collar". The also started to be worn by the Non-Chinese, the Tartars of northern China and Manchuria in the later medieval period.
The motif was also used in Chinese ceramic work around the necks of vases and jars; mainly in the ceramics of the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasty period. It was used to decorate blue and white porcelain.
Terminology
The cloud collar is named after the shape of the collar's lobes, which looks like a 'quadruple-cloud' in design when laid flat.Cultural significance and symbolism
Chinese cosmology
The motif was originally used as a cosmic symbol in China.In Chinese clothing
When used on Chinese clothing, the cloud shape is a symbolism which represent abundance while the neck opening is a symbolism for the "Sky gate". The lobes which point in 4-directions represents the universe.In the Song dynasty, the human body was perceived as the "axis column of the universe" and was considered an extension from the earth to the sky since the post-Han dynasty period while a robe was considered as the "enveloping canopy of the Universe" which is the sky. The hole around at the neck of the sky-resembling robe may be been perceived as a symbolism of the "Sky gate" through which the axis column is believed to penetrate through the "Sky gate".
In Qing dynasty, this cosmological concept was maintained and could be seen in the cloud-studded upper part of the clothing, especially on the dragon robes. On the dragon robes, the represented the sky which was supported on the world; the world was represented by the motifs of mountains and seas which were decorating the base of the dragon robe.
In the recent centuries, the motif has been mainly perceived as a purely decorative motif. In the late Ming and Qing dynasties, the cosmological was largely forgotten as the people became more materialistic, and by then, the motif became mainly an ornamental design. When the lobes of the were no longer perceived as representing the 4-directions, the number of lobes started to vary. The number of lobes were sometimes 3, 5, 6, 8 instead of the traditional use of the 4-lobes.
Origins
The origins of the appears to have been derived from multiple origins. There are also several hypotheses on their origins.According to Schuyler Cammann, the origins of motif is derived from the cosmological decorations which ornated the back of mirrors of the Han dynasty. The earliest forms of the motif appeared on the Chinese bronze mirrors found at the end of the Zhou dynasty. However, the Zhou dynasty motif was not fully evolved; it was only during the Eastern Han dynasty that the motif evolved fully.The motif may also have been derived from persimmon calyx pattern, which may have been called pattern, a flower pattern with 4 petals with each petal showing a different direction) used in lacquer and bronze wares of the Han dynasty. The persimmon calyx pattern originated in the Warring States Period and prevailed in the Han dynasty. The motif appears to have later been adapted to develop the actual garment collar.
Garment collar
Sui and Tang dynasties
The as a form of garment collar was developed in the Sui dynasty from a feather coat. Other sources indicate however that it first appeared in the Tang dynasty and was an element of the Chinese court dress since Tang dynasty. In the Tang dynasty, the pattern of 4-petal leaf which was used in the motif changed in details and became a cross flower and thus developed in the usual pattern which would decorate on fabrics.Song and Jin dynasties
The appears to have already been known in China as early as the Song dynasty and since then, they have used extensively in their robes patterns. Till the Song dynasty, the design of the shows the combination of persimmon calyx motif and the ruyi clouds ; this was also used in architecture of the Song dynasty. The clouds patterns can be found as early as in the bronze wares of the Shang and Zhou dynasties and they became popular in the Han dynasty.The also had origins in the Jin dynasty, where it is attested that it was first used on robes in literature. The first pictorial evidence of the pattern usage on robes is from the Jin dynasty in the painting Lady Wenji Returns to Han while the term "" was also first document in the Jin shi in the description of the Jin dynasty imperial dress. According to the Jinshi: "Titled and royal lady and imperial relatives... granted imperial carriage and dressings for carriage with sun and moon decorated on left and right of cloud shoulders, dragon pattern in yellow, saddle with five holes need to be changed”. The imperial dress was also described to be yellow imperial robe decorated with dragon motifs which is worn with a decorated with the sun and moon.Mongol period and Yuan dynasty
Prior to the conquest of the Song dynasty, the Mongols had already adopted the wearing of motifs. However according to the History of Yuan, the clothing system of the Yuan originated from the Jin dynasty; "when the Yuan dynasty was founded, clothing and carriage decorations followed the old customs. Kublai Khan took the customs from the Jin and Song dynasty to the Han and Tang dynasty".The motif was popular in the Yuan dynasty and became a signature motif on both men's and women's clothing and could also be found on both ceramic and metal work. In the Yuan dynasty painting Khubilai Khan Hunting, Empress Chabi is depicted wearing a white robe which is decorated with a cloud-collar motif on her chest and shoulders. Some of the attendant also wore Mongol robes with the motif. The Yuan dynasty pattern consisted of a 4-lobed cruciform-shaped design and would be found around the robe's collar covering the chest and shoulders areas. The Yuan dynasty motif was the combination of ruyi-clouds, persimmon calyx motif and bo, which was used to protect the necks of northern nomads from winds and sand; this also developed into the yunjian pattern which was used to decorate the shoulder region of clothing and became widely used in the clothing of nobles. In the Medieval periods, the motif appears to have been derived from the eight-petal lotus and the Buddhist Mandala. The no more appeared on the official robes after the fall of the Yuan dynasty in China proper.
Ming dynasty
In Ming dynasty, the garment collar appears to have been popular in both China and Mongolia in this period. The Ming court once sent a with the design of gold-brocaded tiger and flower to a Mongolian chieftain. The 4-lobed cloud collar continued to be work around the collars of the Ming dynasty ceremonial robe.Qing dynasty
The survived into the Qing dynasty period and was used in Chinese women's clothing. It became very popular and it could be found many forms and styles.In the 17th and 18th century AD, the was one of the most common Han Chinese women fashion in China, along with ruqun, taozi, beizi and bijia. The could be sometimes be used as a detachable collar or could be found woven into the women's robe. More often however, the was found on the women's robe as an appliqué. The practical use and the ceremonial associations of the may have contributed to the use of appliqué on the ao or shan in the 19th century.In Qing, the became an indispensable item for women's wedding clothing, and by the 19th century, it was an important central element to the Han Chinese women's celebratory clothing. The worn by the Han Chinese as ceremonial clothing and for wedding was a detachable collar which was worn on top of the and the Qing dynasty xiapei.