Chinese clothing


Chinese clothing, including ethnic minority garments and modern adaptations of indigenous styles, is a vital aspect of Chinese culture and civilization. For thousands of years, Chinese clothing has evolved with dynastic traditions, foreign influences, and cultural exchanges, adapting to the needs of each era. Each dynasty maintained specific styles, colors, and forms that reflected social class distinctions and regional diversity. Beyond its practical functions—such as protection from weather and modesty—clothing also served as a cultural marker, distinguishing social roles, rank, and relationships. Ancient Chinese attire reflected the social and political structures of its time, while also showcasing textile, dyeing, and embroidery techniques. Changes in clothing reflect the technical skills of the population at that time as well as intercultural exchanges that have taken place.

Origin

Ancient Chinese literature traditionally credits the invention of clothing to the Yellow Emperor, Huangdi, and his wife, Leizu. In early societies, clothing symbolized authority and specific identities. The I Ching states that Emperors Yao and Shun hung their clothes and ruled the world, implying that the style of their clothing signified their status as being different from that of ordinary people. In addition, the unique costumes worn during military activities and ceremonial rites further laid the foundation for the emergence and development of a formal clothing system.
Archaeological evidence traces the history of clothing back to the late Paleolithic period. Because ancient shoes were often made from animal skin, the Chinese words for 'leather' and 'shoe' share an etymological link. The earliest shoe styles were very rudimentary. It has been speculated that ancient people cut animal skins into rough foot shapes and connected them with thin leather strips to form the most primitive shoes.

Upper cave site

A bone needle and 141 ornaments made of stone, bone, shell, and tooth were discovered at the Upper Cave of the Zhoukoudian Peking Man site and dated to 19,000 years old. Archaeologists found seven small stone beads and 125 perforated animal teeth, many of which exhibited marks of long-term wear. Bones interred in the lower chamber of the cave bore traces of hematite powder.

The Neolithic Age

In the Neolithic period, people were found to use spinning wheels to weave threads. The Yuyao Hemudu site also unearthed a waist loom, with a cylindrical back loop that could form a natural weaving mouth, as well as a sheng. During this time, people also wore linen clothing. With the invention of textile technology, clothing materials became artificially woven fabrics, and silk production also began in the Neolithic Age. The form of clothing changed, and its functions were also improved. Cloak-style clothing such as headscarves and drapes soon became typical attire, and became a method of differentiating people from different social classes. After the emergence of textiles, headscarves developed into a standardized clothing style, widely used for a considerable period of time, in vast regions, and among many ethnic groups. They replaced the clothing components of the Paleolithic era and became the basic form of human clothing. In addition to general clothing, the Neolithic pottery also depicts the use of crowns, boots, headgear, and accessories.

Shang dynasty

In the Shang dynasty, the primary materials for clothing included leather, silk, ramie, and kudzu. The upper class favored naturally dyed silk and leather, while the lower class, due to limited access to silk, primarily used hemp, ramie, and kudzu fibers. As textile technology advanced, silk and ramie fabrics became increasingly significant. Artisans developed the skill to weave exceptionally fine silk, create geometric jacquard patterns, and produce ribbed yarn using warp looms. These fabrics were often richly dyed in deep, vibrant colors.

Western Zhou dynasty

During the Western Zhou dynasty, the hierarchical system was gradually established, and the Zhou dynasty established official positions such as "Si Fu" and "Nei Si Fu", which were in charge of royal attire. According to literature records and analysis of unearthed cultural relics, the Chinese coronal and attire system was initially established during the Xia and Shang dynasties and had been fully perfected by the Zhou dynasty. It was incorporated into the rule of etiquette during the Spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period. To express nobility and dignity, royal officials in different ceremonial occasions should have their crowns arranged in an orderly manner, and their clothing should also adopt different forms, colors, and patterns. From the human shaped cultural relics unearthed during the Zhou dynasty, it can be seen that although the decoration of clothing is complex and simple, the upper and lower garments are already distinct, laying the foundation for the basic form of Chinese clothing.

Qin and Han dynasties

Women's clothing

During the Qin and Han dynasties, women's clothing typically featured long, wide, and loose sleeves, often paired with high-heeled clogs. Noblewomen also adorned their arms with a decorative scarf known as the Jingguo.
This period also saw a trend toward diversification in fashion, with the most iconic example being the "Liuxian Skirt." According to the Miscellaneous Records of the Western Capital, Zhao Feiyan was granted the title of Empress, and her sister commissioned the weaving of coordinated upper and lower garments, creating a splendid ensemble. Zhao Feiyan famously wore the "Yunying Purple Skirt," also known as the "Liuxian Skirt," which was a tribute from South Vietnam. This skirt, resembling today's pleated styles, was very beautiful.

Three Kingdoms

Women's clothing

During the Three Kingdoms period, women's clothing also had unique characteristics, reflecting the aesthetic concepts and cultural styles of that time.
A skirt or robe is one of the common attire for women. This type of dress is mostly long, with a wide hem, creating a dignified and generous atmosphere. The cuffs and stitching of the dress often carry exquisite embroidery, which may be floral, bird and animal, or other auspicious patterns, reflecting women's pursuit of beauty and love for life.
In addition, women also enjoy wearing various hair and headgear to showcase their beauty and elegance. Common hair accessories include hair combs, hairpins, etc. These hair accessories are usually made of precious materials such as gold, silver, jade, etc., which may be inlaid with precious gemstones or jewelry, adding charm and charm to women.

Sui and Tang dynasties

Sui and Tang women are easy to dress up. The "half-arm" that spread from the court lasted for a long time, and later men also wore it. At that time, long towels were also popular. They were made of tusa with silver flowers painted with silver or gold and silver powder. One end was fixed on the chest strap of the half arm, and then put on the shoulder, and swired between the arms, called silk. There are various kinds of women's hair accessories in the Tang dynasty, each with its own name. Women's shoes are generally floral shoes, mostly made of brocade fabrics, coloured silk and leather.

Song dynasty

Song official uniform

During the Song dynasty, there were roughly three types of Hanfu: official attire, casual attire, and traditional attire. In the Song dynasty, the fabric of official uniforms was mainly made of silk. Due to the old system of the Five Dynasties, the government would give brocade robes to high-ranking ministers every year, divided into seven different colors such as Song dynasty Lingjiu ball patterned brocade robes. The color of official attire follows the Tang system, with purple attire for third grade and above, red attire for fifth grade and above, green attire for seventh grade and above, and green attire for ninth grade and above. The official attire style is roughly similar to the long sleeved robe of the late Tang dynasty, but the first attire is already a flat winged black gauze hat, called the straight footed fu head, which is a custom attire for rulers and officials. The official attire of the Song dynasty followed the fish wearing system of the Tang dynasty. Officials eligible to wear purple and crimson uniforms were required to wear a "fish bag" around their waist, which contained fish made of gold, silver, and copper to distinguish their official rank. The square and curved collar is also a characteristic of the court attire, which is the decoration of the lower part of the circle placed between the neckline of the court attire. The daily casual wear of officials in the Song dynasty, apart from their official uniforms and uniforms, mainly consisted of small sleeved round necked shirts and soft winged buns with drooping headbands, still in Tang style, but with more convenient casual shoes for daily living. The representative clothing of the Song dynasty's elderly is a wide sleeved robe with a cross necked collar and a Dongpo scarf. The robe is made of dark material with edges to preserve ancient style. The Dongpo scarf is a square tube shaped high scarf, which is said to have been created by the great literary scholar Su Dongpo. It is actually a revival of ancient cloth scarves, which were often worn by the elderly gentry of the Ming.

Song Dynasty Lingjiu Ball Pattern Brocade Robe

There were also various popular folk costumes in the Song dynasty. Men are popular with futou and drapes, while women are popular with flower crowns and caps. Women's hairstyles and flower crowns were the focus of their pursuit of beauty at that time, best reflecting the changes in attire during the Song dynasty. During the Tang and Five Dynasties, female corollas became increasingly delicate, while during the Song dynasty, corollas underwent further development and changes. Usually, flower and bird shaped hairpins and combs were inserted into hair buns, making everything unusual.