Thanaka


Thanaka is a paste made from ground bark. It is a distinctive feature of the culture of Myanmar, seen commonly applied to the face and sometimes the arms of women and girls, and is used to a lesser extent also by men and boys.

History

Thanakha has a longstanding heritage in Myanmar, first used during the Pyu era.
The earliest extent evidence of thanakha appears in wall paintings of several Bagan pagodas, including the Gubyaukgyi, Nagayon, and Apayayadana temples, all of which depict young women with kyaukpyin. The earliest literary reference to thanakha is in "Thonteiktin", a poem written in 1383 by the consort of King Razadarit. Thanakha is also mentioned in the 15th-century literary works of Burmese monk-poet Shin Raṭṭhasāra, including Buridat Zat Paunggyo. Following the 1930 earthquake, the kyaukpyin of Princess Yaza Datu Kalaya, the daughter of King Bayinnaung, was found among the ruins of Shwemawdaw Pagoda in Bago.
Thailand began producing cosmetics containing thanakha, and began cultivating the wood thereafter. Thailand is currently working to register the scientific name of Hesperethusa ''crenulata'' with the ASEAN Cosmetic Association, to get the species recognized with the World Plant List and given an INCI Name. In 2020, Myanmar submitted thanakha to UNESCO for registration as an intangible cultural heritage, but the submission was rejected, due to insufficient data and evidence in the submission.

Application, style and properties

Thanaka cream has been used by Burmese men, women, and children for over 2,000 years. It has a fragrant scent somewhat similar to sandalwood. The creamy paste is applied to the face in attractive designs, the most common form being a circular patch on each cheek, nose, sometimes made stripey with the fingers known as thanaka bè gya, or patterned in the shape of a leaf, often also highlighting the bridge of the nose with it at the same time. It may be applied from head to toe. Apart from cosmetic beauty, thanaka also gives a cooling sensation and provides protection from sunburn. It is believed to help remove acne and promote smooth skin. It is also an anti-fungal. Marmesin has been proposed to be the principal UV blocking agent. A study was conducted in 2010 by the Chulalongkorn University in Bangkok and the University of London. Thanaka bark is antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and absorbs UV rays. The research additionally revealed that Thanaka inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme that triggers melanin synthesis and impacts pores and skin discolouration.