Llanthomas Castle Mound
Llanthomas Castle Mound was built by the Normans after the 1066 Norman Conquest of England, probably after the Norman invasion of Wales in 1081, but before 1215. It was a motte-and-bailey castle design. The building materials were earth, rubble, and timber. The earth was probably obtained from the surrounding ditch and the timber from nearby woods.
Cadw are the Welsh government-funded regulatory body for the scheduling of historical assets in Wales. They describe Llanthomas Castle Mound as an important relic of medieval architecture which might extend knowledge of medieval defensive practices. Their scheduled area comprises the motte and a substantial area of lawn at the base of the motte, where related evidence is expected to survive.
History
Antiquarian sources have revealed the link between Llanthomas Castle Mound with Llanigon, Llanthomas and the River Wye.In Tudor times, Theophilus Jones suggested that Llanigo was named after the first British female saint called Eigen. Saint Eigen lived around the end of the 1st century in the settlement called Trefynys. The pre-conquest nucleated settlement grew around a church. Possibly on the site of the existing church of St. Eigon, in Llanigon. The earliest reference to the church of St. Eigon is between 1148 and 1155. The oldest part of the current church building dates to the 13th century, suggesting that the current building was built on or near the site of an older church. Nothing is known of the history of the Trefynys settlement, "though some relationship with the motte at Llanthomas 700m down the Digeddi Brook seems assured". Lewys Dwnn suggests that the dedication of the church of St. Eigon in Llanigon and/or the derivation of the village name Llanigon is unclear. The dedications might be honouring the first century Saint Eigen or the 6th century Saint Eigion, both are local Welsh saints.
The "motte at Llanthomas" is formally called Llanthomas Castle Mound and was part of the Norman Llanthomas lordship, a sub-lordship of the Hay lordship. Llanthomas Castle Mound was built in the late 11th or early 12th century. Unlike Hay Tump, it is not known who built Llanthomas Castle Mound, but it is known to have existed from the early days of the Norman conquest.
John Leyland visited Llanigo and its castle between 1536 and 1539. He wrote about the castle, "Llanigo apperith a tour tanquam noxiorum custodiae deputata". That is, the castle was "intended for guarding against evil-doers". William Camden adds that "at Llanigo appears a castle or tower". The mention of a tower approximately 350 years after construction, suggests that the original wooden keep was refortified with a shell keep and/or a stone keep. These days the surface at the top of Llanthomas Castle Mound is uneven. This is often indicative of buried rubble from a collapsed stone structure. Conversely, a wooden keep tends to result in a level top surface after the above ground wood has rotted.
John Lloyd wrote "the tumulus below Llanthomas is said to direct to the ford on the Wye". William Morgan interpreted this to mean that the castle guarded the road leading down to the River Wye. An Ordnance Survey map shows that the road connects to the River Wye via the nearby ford called Little Ffordd-Fawr. CPAT indicate that Llanthomas is historically significant because it has "a motte from the early days of the Norman Conquest", and in the Tudor era its "ancient mansion" was owned by a high-status individual. Samuel Lewis reveals that around the time of Leyland's visit, the Lord of Llanthomas was [Walter William Devereux|Devereux, 1st Viscount Hereford|Sir Walter Deveraux], the Lord Chief Justice of South Wales. Edwin Poole listed many of the other high-status individuals who had lived in Llanthomas up to the 20th century.
The Llanthomas area has had a rich history for at least the last two millennia. The history is associated with Saint Eigen and Caractacus and the conquest of Britain, the Devereux family and the Norman invasion of Wales and more recently the diarist Francis Kilvert. Francis walked along both sections of Llanthomas lane to visit "Daisy", who lived in the modernised domicile of the Llanthomas lordship.
The history associated with the Llanthomas area may be older. When possible the Normans speeded up castle construction by building on existing Iron Age or Bronze Age hillforts, or Roman ruins or ditch, augmenting the castle's defensive architecture. Some antiquarian scholars believed that Llanthomas Castle Mound was built on an Iron Age tumulus. Until recently, many maps labelled Llanthomas Castle Mound as a tumulus.
Motte and Bailey Castle architecture
Llanthomas Castle Mound is the remains of a motte-and-bailey medieval castle. A typical castle architecture included:- a multi-storey wooden watchtower on the summit of the mound/motte,
- a wooden palisade fence around the keep,
- a wooden palisade fence around the bailey/courtyard and
- a deep ditch surrounding the bailey.
Nearly a millennium after the construction of Llanthomas Castle Mound the only above ground wood is a self-seeded hawthorn tree. The evidence of the castle today consists of the motte, the ditch and buried walls. The walls underpinned the wooden fence surrounding the bailey and near the top of the ditch "all the way down to the brook".
The typical enclosed bailey was often kidney/pear shaped, where the narrower end wrapped around the motte. The bailey will have included the living quarters for the garrison of soldiers/archers and perhaps the family of the Lord of the manor. The bailey contained facilities to sustain a military settlement. For example, kitchens, halls, workshops, forges, armouries, stables, barns for livestock, storage areas and a chapel.
A bailey covered a considerable land area, and may have used much of the level land from Llanthomas Castle Mound along the single carriageway section of Llanthomas lane in the direction of Llanigon. An Ordnance Survey map shows that the field that wrapped around the tumulus was fully enclosed by Digeddi brook and Llanthomas lane. The field was used as a grazing meadow and was called Bailey Court. In recent times the field has been split into multiple private plots/dwellings. Traces of a possible site for a kitchen area within the bailey has been found about 50m to the south-east of the motte. Digeddi brook runs along the base of the ditch offering a vital natural resource for any military settlement.
Field work
Motte and bailey castles were built in an age when written records were sparse, above ground wood has long since rotted and any masonry has been repurposed. These days evidence of a bailey can be discerned by geophysical surveys and/or excavation.In 1921, the William Morgan vicar at the pre-conquest church of St. Eigon, Llanigon, an amateur archaeologist hosted a visit from the Woolhope club. The club studied the natural history, geology, archaeology and the history of Herefordshire, England. William dug a small excavation trench on the summit of the motte, but no artefacts were found from the brief excavation. There is no known record of any professional-level archaeological excavation or geophysical survey of Llanthomas Castle Mound.
In 1988, the professional archaeologist Peter Dorling with the Clwyd-Powys Archaeological Trust conducted an excavation of a possible site for the bailey courtyard. They discovered activity associated with the motte. Artefacts were found including a sherd from the base of a medieval cooking pot. The work included topsoil stripping, site levelling and excavation of foundation trenches. Their report describes a number of visible stone-filled features. They state "Four definite features were noted during the excavation... The most distinctive of these was a stone-filled pit or ditch butt-end... its basal fill contained some quantity of charcoal". The archaeologist's report concluded it is likely to have been a kitchen within the bailey.
Toponymy
"Llan" is Welsh for the sacred land around a church. Llanigon may be derived from "Llan" and either "Eigen" or "Eigion". People and place names in Wales are derived from Welsh, Anglo-Norman, Latin, Anglo-Saxon and Middle English etc. Over time the nouns have evolved from language to language leading to uncertainty about the original noun.Llanthomas was known as Trefynys from the 1st century to around Norman times. The Welsh words "Tref" and "ynys" mean "settlement" and "island", respectively. Trefynys is used in Welsh place names to denote a populated area or settlement. By the 14th century, Trefynys was known as Thomascherche. Sometime later it became known as Llanthomas, the French and English derivations of "Thomas church" respectively. The settlement contained a chapel of rest probably dedicated to Saint Thomas. Today, Llanthomas is a settlement within the village of Llanigon.
The French words "motte" and "bailey" mean "mound" and "enclosure" respectively in English. Motte-and-bailey castles without evidence of the original bailey are called castle mounds. Until recently, the grazing field around Llanthomas Castle Mound was called Bailey Court. The words "bailey" and "court" are of Norman origin. The Normans used the word "donjon" for the keep. It is derived from the Latin word "dominarium" meaning "lordship", emphasising the link between the castle and the Lord of the manor.
Antiquarian and modern sources identify Llanthomas Castle Mound with names reflecting its close proximity to Llanigon and Hay-on-Wye. It has been referred to as "Llanthomas Motte", "Llanthomas", "Llanthomas Mound", and "Llanigon Castle". Others group Llanthomas Castle Mound with the Hay-on-Wye castles. In 1961, castleologist, D. J. Cathcart King in his magnum opus aspired to list all UK castles. Hay Castle is listed as Hay No. 1, Hay Tump as Hay No. 2 and Llanthomas Castle Mound as Hay No. 3. The Hay castles are numbered 6, 22 and 23 respectively in his index. Also in 1961 the Ministry of Works published a list of UK monuments whose preservation was considered to be of "national importance". Llanthomas Castle Mound is associated with Hay Rural and Hay Tump with Hay Urban, referencing the post-1894 civil parishes. Some antiquarian sources allude to Llanthomas Castle Mound e.g. "the tumulus on the brook below Llanthomas", "the mound at Llanigon Castle", "the ruins of the castle at Llanigon to Llowes ford" and "the mound in Bailey Court".
Location
Llanthomas Castle Mound is on private property but is viewable from the single-carriageway section of Llanthomas lane, opposite the walled Llanthomas gardens. Adjacent private properties on Llanthomas lane are mentioned in the Francis Kilvert diaries including Llanthomas cottage, Llanthomas lodge and Llanthomas gardens. The associated land for these Victorian/Edwardian properties were once part of the Llanthomas lordship. Kilvert frequently visited the nearby Llanthomas Hall and the vicarage of St. Eigon.Llanthomas Castle Mound is a short walk from the village of Llanigon and less than 2 miles from Hay-on-Wye, the "town of books". It is on the same lane as the site of the Hay Festival fields.
Llanthomas Castle Mound is located in Powys, Wales but has a Herefordshire postcode. The historic county of Brecknockshire became Powys in 1974. It is about 2 miles from the border with England in the area known as the Welsh Marches. Llanthomas Castle Mound is in the foothills of Hay Bluff in the Brecon Beacons.
The location of Llanthomas Castle Mound may have been chosen because it occupies a high point that once overlooked the River Wye less than a mile away. Currently there is no direct line of sight to the river due to hedges, trees, and buildings. The fording point Little Ffordd-Fawr is located between Llanthomas Castle Mound and the south bank of the river. Mottes often had a direct line of sight with a nearby motte as is the case with Llanthomas Castle Mound and Llowes Castle Tump on the north bank of the river. Nearby, Clyro and Hay castles may also have been twinned. The strategic purpose for twinning was to control both sides of the river connected by a fording point, reinforcing Norman dominance along the Middle Wye Valley.
Other surviving Norman castles near Llanthomas Castle Mound, reveals the collective defensive military and trading roles for all the castles along the Middle Wye Valley e.g.
- 1.1 miles: Llowes Castle/Llowes Motte/Llowes Castle Tump,
- 1.5 miles: Hay-on-Wye the Castle and Tump,
- 2.0 miles: Clyro Castle,
- 2.2 miles: Glasbury Motte,
- 2.5 miles: Cusop Castle,
- 2.7 miles: Aberllynfi Castle/Great House Mound,
- 2.8 miles: Castle Kinsey,
- 3.9 miles: Clifford Castle,
- 4.5 miles: Painscastle Castle; Boughrood Motte,
- 5.0 miles: Bronllys Castle.
| OS Map Grid Reference | SO 2091 4036 |
| what3words | provoking.rave.longer |
| Postcode | HR3 5PU |
| Latitude: 52.056 | Longitude: -3.1548 |
| Latitude: 52° 3' 21"N | Longitude: 3° 9' 17"W |
| OS Eastings: 320919 | OS Northings: 240366 |
| Mapcode National GBR F0.DL2G | Mapcode International: VH6BJ.8LK6 |
Welsh Government records
Cadw scheduled monuments receive legal protection under the Historic Environment (Wales) Act 2016 and the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Areas Act 1979. Cadw provide an initial scheduling report and assign a field monument warden, a professional archaeologist, to keep a watching brief on the scheduled site. The Cadw scheduled report for Llanthomas Castle Mound states that there is a strong possibility that Llanthomas Castle Mound and the scheduled area have both structural evidence and intact associated deposits. The report concludes that Llanthomas Castle Mound is an important relic of the medieval landscape.The Welsh Archaeological Trusts maintain regional historic environment records on behalf of the Welsh government. The Clwyd-Powys Archaeological Trust records for Llanthomas Castle Mound include past Cadw reports: PRN 443, 38278, 2586 . In 2024, CPAT and the other three archaeological organisations covering Wales merged into a single archaeological organisation called Heneb.
The Coflein online database, stores the National Monuments Record of Wales. The archive is located in the National Library of Wales in Aberystwyth. The archive record for Llanthomas Castle Mound include a hundred years of reports: 6057064, 6054097, 6064626, 6140925, 6140927, 6359576, 6464877, 6140926, 6140924, 6054098, 6059886, 6519900.
Online references
Llanthomas Castle Mound is included in many online lists of medieval castles in Wales:- List of tumps in England and Wales, see Llanthomas Castle Mound.
- List of Castles in Wales, see Llanthomas Castle Mound.
- List of the medieval fortified sites of the historic county of Brecknockshire, see Llanthomas Castle Mound.
- Welsh Castle Database, see Llanthomas Motte.
- Vanished Castles of Wales and the Marches, see Llanthomas Castle Mound.
- The Castle Guide – a selection of castles from around the UK, see Llanthomas Motte.
- Anglo-Norman Castles, see Llanthomas.
- Historical Britain - Mottes, see Llanthomas Motte.
- Where to Photograph Castles in Brecknockshire, see Llanthomas.
- Castlefacts, see Llanthomas Motte, Llanigon.
- Llangoed Hall, area information, see Llanthomas Motte.
- Life in Hay - Touring the Local Ancient Monuments.
- Wiki Loves Monuments 2024 in Wales, see Llanigon, Llanthomas Castle Mound.
- Open Street Map.
- Landscape Britain has a radar map of the Llanthomas Castle Mound terrain.
- Llanigon War Memorial, see motte and bailey castle.
- Ancient OS maps for 1888, see tumulus 370.
- Images of Llanthomas Castle Mound.
- Motte weather station.
Llanthomas Lordship
From the 1st century to around the 11th century the settlement known today as Llanthomas was called Trefynys.The second Norman invasion of Wales was successful, unlike the first. It was led by the Norman lord Bernard de Neufmarché. Brycheiniog was conquered between 1088 and 1095. Brycheiniog was divided into lesser lordships, and gifted to the knights who contributed to the conquest.
Motte and bailey castles were a vital Norman defensive architecture. A castle would have been built soon after the lordship was allocated to a knight.
The Llanthomas lordship was part of the Hay lordship owned by William Revel, one of Bernard's knights. Revel is thought to have built Hay Tump, near St Mary's Church, Hay-on-Wye. St. Mary's was separated from the ancient parish of Llanigon around 1115.
By 1340, Llanigon is known to have had a chapel of ease called Thomascherche. In the 14th century the Llanthomas lordship was known as Llanthomas manor. The manor had considerable land including Llanthomas Castle Mound, farmland, orchards etc. The manor included a proprietary church called Thomaschurch, probably the Llanigon chapel of ease, as its name is the translation from the French. The chapel was located near the domicile of the lord of the manor. The proprietary church was funded by the lord of the manor, who provided its vicar with a stipend making the chapel financially independent of the diocese in the established church. Documented references to the proprietary church had disappeared by the 18th century.
Paul Remfry a local historian has suggested that one of the first lords of the manor may have been the English Earl, William de Ferrers, Earl of Derby and a Knight Templar. Primary and secondary sources show that there were many high-status owners. This included descendants of the Devereux family who fought with William the Conqueror at the Battle of Hastings. It is believed that the Devereux family had several estates in Herefordshire since the time of King John, if not earlier. From the Norman era through to the Victorian era, the Llanthomas lordship has been home to the nobility, the wealthy and the infamous, including:
- Sir Walter Devereux of Bodenham and Weobley. MP for Hereford.
- Sir Walter Devereux of Bodenham.
- Lord Walter Devereux Earl Ferrers, 10th Baron Ferrers of Chartley,1st Viscount Hereford and a Knight of the Garter.
- William Thomas MP for Downton, Wiltshire.
- Lady Lettice Devereux, née Knollys Viscountess Hereford and Countess of Leicester.
- Lord Walter Devereux 2nd Viscount Hereford, 11th Baron Ferrers of Chartley. He owned Bodenham, Pipton and Llanthomas.
- William Watkins, Officer in the Parliamentarian army.
- Esquire Thynne Howe Gwynne Lieutenant in the Regiment of the Dragoon Guards and Sheriff for Breconshire.
- Sir William Pilkington 8th Pilkington Baronet.
- William Jones Thomas vicar at St. Eigon, Llanigon and justice of the peace for Hereford, Brecon and Radnor.
Lloyd provides a detailed geographical description of the estate around the start of the 19th century, before many parts were sold off. In Victorian times, the Llanthomas estate was described as a rectangle of land. The length was the single carriage section and some of the dual carriage way section of Llanthomas lane. The breadth was from the Old Forge to Cy Terrig. Since then many more parts of the original lordship have been sold, including the land around Llanthomas Castle Mound which was sold for farming. In recent times the original Llanthomas lordship includes Llanthomas Castle Mound and 18th/19th century private dwellings including Glandwr, Ty-mawr, Llanthomas cottage, Llanthomas farm, Llanthomas hall, Llanthomas lodge and Llanthomas Gardens etc.
Notable people
- Saint Eigen was the daughter of Caratacus. She may have lived in Trefynys, around the end of the 1st century. Caratacus led the British resistance to the Roman conquest in AD 43. Caratacus and his family were captured and taken to Rome, where they converted to Christianity. After their release, Caratacus, Saint Eigen, Saint Cyllin and Saint Ilid returned to Wales. It has been suggested that Saint Eigen assisted the early entry of Christianity into Britain.
- John Leyland was a Tudor antiquarian, poet, archaeologist, and chaplain to Henry VIII. John visited Llanthomas Castle Mound in the 16th century. He died young, suffering from mental illness in his latter days. The notes of his visits were available to William Camden and other antiquarians. The notes were formally published at the start of the 20th century. He is known as the father of English local history and is a primary source for British history scholars.
- Canon William Edward Thomas Morgan succeeded William Jones Thomas as vicar at St. Eigon, Llanigon. William Morgan was the best man at the wedding of Francis Kilvert to Elizabeth Rowland and he is mentioned in the Francis Kilvert's Diaries of 1870-1879.
- William de Ferre Earl of Derby was married to Sibyl de Braose, the daughter of William de Braose, 3rd Lord of Bramber and Bertha of Hereford. William took part in the failed rebellion against Henry II.
- Sir Walter Devereux was a knight during the reigns of Richard II and Henry IV. He married Agnes de Crophull. Records in 1402 show that Walter held the manors of Brilley, Pipton, Thomascherche i.e. Llanthomas/Llanigon and part of La Hay i.e. Hay-on-Wye.
- Sir Walter Devereux of Bodenham was a knight during the reigns of Henry IV and Henry V. He married Elizabeth Bromwich. He inherited only part of the lands of his father when he came of age. His mother, Agnes de Crophull held the majority of his estates in dower during Walter's lifetime. It is not known whether Agnes or Walter owned Llanthomas.
- Lord Walter Devereux was an English courtier and parliamentarian. Walter was made a Knight of the Garter by Henry VIII of England. Walter inherited the Llanthomas lordship in 1509. He was Chief Justice of South Wales and Chamberlain of South Wales, Carmarthen, and Cardigan. He was steward of the household in Ludlow of Mary Princess of Wales.
- William Thomas was from Llanigon. He was a politician, a scholar, and a clerk of the Privy Council under Edward VI. He became MP for Downton, Wiltshire in 1553. An avowed Protestant, he was found guilty of treason for plotting to murder the Catholic Queen Mary I in Wyatt's Rebellion. He was committed to the Tower of London. From there he was drawn upon a sled to Tyburn, where he was hanged, beheaded, and quartered. His head was placed on London Bridge.
- Lady Lettice Devereux, née Knollys was an English noblewomen. Lettice was married to Walter Devereux. On his death she married Elizabeth I's favourite, Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester. In a fit of jealously the Queen permanently banished Lettice from the Royal court.
- Lord Walter Devereux was Lettice Devereux's first husband. He was created the 1st Earl of Essex, by Queen Elizabeth I. He was a prominent English nobleman and known for his brutal military campaigns in Ireland.
- William Watkins was in the parliamentarian army against Charles I, and a "propagator of the Gospel in South Wales". In 1672 an act of parliament allowed nonconformist groups to meet in their own homes. The Llanigon Dissenters held meetings at Penyrwyrlodd, his other mansion in Llanigon. Their son John was wounded in a duel, leading to his opponent's death. Fearing capture, he hid in Hay Castle but died whilst searching for a safer hiding place. His widow lived in Llanthomas until her death in 1734. A Watkins descendent also called William Watkins, lived in Llanthomas in 1772.
- James Jones High Sheriff of Brecknockshire sold Llanthomas estate and Llwyn Llwyd farm in Llanigon to Thynne Howe Gwynne in July 1814.
- Esquire Thynne Howe Gwynne was married to the Honourable Georgianna Marianna Devereux, daughter of George the 13th Viscount Hereford of Tregoyd. He "modernized with great taste, forming a handsome and prominent object in the scenery of the village, close to which it is situated".
- Sir William Pilkington family sold Llanthomas estate to the Reverend William Jones-Thomas in 1858.
- Reverend William Jones Thomas was vicar at St. Eigon, Llanigon. He is remembered for his rejection of Francis Kilvert as a suitor for one of his five daughters. There are many references to the Thomas family in the Francis Kilvert's Diaries of 1870-1879. William and his descendants were to be the last owners of the Llanthomas estate and hall. They sold the estate land and the contents of the hall to pay off accumulated debts. The hall was demolished in 1954. A modern home has been built on part of the footing of the old hall.
Antiquarian sources
- Leyland, John. The itinerary in Wales, 1536-1539.
- Jones, Theophilus, A history of the county of Brecknock, Vol 1.
- Jones, Theophilus, A history of the county of Brecknock, Vol 2.
- Lewis, Samuel. A topographical dictionary of Wales, Vol 1.
- Lewis, Samuel. A topographical dictionary of Wales, Vol 2.
- Poole, Edwin. The Illustrated History and Biography of Brecknockshire from the Earliest Times to the Present Day.
- Lloyd, John Edward. Historical memoranda of Breconshire; a collection of papers from various sources relating to the history of the county.
Modern sources
- Remfry, Paul Martin. Castles of Breconshire: No. 8. Herefordshire: Logaston Press. ISBN 978-1-873827-80-2.
- Salter, Mike. The Castles of Mid Wales. Folly Publications. ISBN 1-871731-48-8.
- Morgan, Gerald. Castles in Wales - a Handbook. Y Lolfa. ISBM 978-1-84771-031-4.
Selected journal sources
- D. J. Cathcart King |. The Castles of Breconshire.
- D. J. Cathcart King. Castellarium Anglicanum: An Index and Bibliography of the Castles in England, Wales, and the Islands: Vols 1–2.
- Dorling. P.. Llanthomas Motte. Llanigon. Archaeology in Wales.
- Ministry of Works. List Of Ancient Monuments In England And Wales.