List of hanfu


Hanfu are the historical clothing of the Han Chinese, here categorized by clothing style.

Informal wear

Types include tops and bottoms, long skirt, and one-piece robes that wrap around the body once or several times.
Zhongyi, which is usually the inner garment much like a Western T-shirt and pants, can be wear along in casual.
The typical set of informal wear consists of two or three layers. The first layer is mostly zhongyi. The next layer is the main layer which is mostly closed at the front. There can be an optional third layer which is often an overcoat called a zhaoshan which is open at the front.
For footwear, white socks and black cloth shoes are the norm. But in the past, shoes may have a front face panel attached to the tip of the shoes.
RomanizationHanziDefinitionDescriptionPeriodImages
Zhōngyī中衣
Bàofù抱腹Han
Dùdōu肚兜,
兜肚, or 兜兜
Qing
Héhuān Jīn合欢襟Chest covering that acts like a camisole. It covers the front and has strings in the back.Yuan dynasty
Liǎngdāng两当It is an underwear which is made up of a square-shaped back and front panels.A form of hufu. It was introduced in the Central Plains by the nomads of China.Wei and Jin
Mǒxiōng抹胸A rectangular piece of cloth tied with strings to cover the breasts and give them support.Song
Xièyī亵衣A camisole that is in a rounded diamond shape and often embroidered, tied around the neck and around the lower back.Pre-Han
Xīnyī心衣Han
Zhǔyāo主腰Ming

Semi-formal wear

Generally, this form of wear is suitable for meeting guests or going to meetings and other special cultural days. This form of dress is often worn by the nobility or the upper-class as they are often expensive pieces of clothing, usually made of silks and damasks. The coat sleeves are often deeper than the shenyi to create a more voluminous appearance.
A piece of ancient Chinese clothing can be "made semi-formal" by the addition of the following appropriate items:
  • Chang : a pleated skirt
  • Bixi : a cloth attached from the waist, covering front of legs.
  • Zhaoshan : long open fronted coat

    Formal wear

In addition to informal and semi-formal wear, there is a form of dress that is worn only at confucian rituals, important sacrifices, religious activities or by special people who are entitled to wear them.
The most formal dress civilians can wear is the xuanduan, which consists of a black or dark blue top garment that runs to the knees with long sleeve, a bottom red chang, a red bixi, an optional white belt with two white streamers hanging from the side or slightly to the front called peishou, and a long black guan. Additionally, wearers may carry a long jade gui or wooden hu tablet. This form of dress is mostly used in sacrificial ceremonies such as Ji Tian and Ji Zu, etc., but is also appropriate for state occasions. The xuanduan is basically a simplified version of full court dress of the officials and the nobility.

Court dress

Court dress is the dress worn at very formal occasions and ceremonies that are in the presence of a monarch. The entire ensemble of clothing can consist of many complex layers and look very elaborate. Court dress is similar to the xuanduan in components but have additional adornments and elaborate headwear. They are often brightly colored with vermillion and blue. There are various versions of court dress that are worn for certain occasions. The practical use of court dress is now obsolete in the modern age since there is no reigning monarch in China anymore.
Those in academia or officialdom have distinctive gowns. This varies over the ages but they are typically round collared gowns closed at the front. The most distinct feature is the headgear which has 'wings' attached. Only those who passed the civil examinations are entitled to wear them, but a variation of it can be worn by ordinary scholars and laymen and even for a groom at a wedding.

Court dress of emperors

Court dress of officials

PrecedenceRankRobe ColorAnimal on Patch
Animal on Patch
Exemplified Positions
1st
First Rank Primary
正一品
Red-crowned craneLionEmperor's Chief Advisor 太師
Regional Commander 都督
2ndFirst Rank Secondary
從一品
Red-crowned craneLionEmperor's Assistant 少傅
Regional Executive Officer 都督同知
3rdSecond Rank Primary
正二品
Golden pheasantLionCrown Prince's Teaching Assistant太子少師
Secretary of Defense 兵部尚書
4thSecond Rank Secondary
從二品
Golden pheasantLionGovernor 布政使
Provincial Deputy Commander 都指揮同知
5thThird Rank Primary
正三品
PeacockTigerMayor of Beijing 順天府尹
Deputy Secretary of Labor 工部侍郎
6thThird Rank Secondary
從三品
PeacockTigerMinister of the Imperial Stud 太僕寺卿
Minister of Salt Supply 都轉鹽運使
7thFourth Rank Primary
正四品
Wild gooseLeopard Handler of the Imperial Seal 掌印太監
Minister of Foreign Affairs 鴻臚寺卿
8thFourth Rank Secondary
從四品
Wild gooseLeopardPrincipal of the Imperial Academy 國子監祭酒
Governor's Junior Assistant 參議
9thFifth Rank Primary
正五品
Silver pheasantBearPrincipal of the Imperial Medical Academy 太醫院使
Grand Secretary of the Cabinet 内閣大學士
10thFifth Rank Secondary
從五品
Silver pheasantBearJunior Scholar at the Imperial Library 翰林院侍讀學士
Deputy Manager of the Department of Justice 刑部員外郎
11thSixth Rank Primary
正六品
EgretPanther Manager of Royal House Records 司記
Minister of Buddhist Affairs 僧錄司善世
12thSixth Rank Secondary
從六品
EgretPantherDeputy Mayor 同知
Deputy Manager of Minority Affairs 安撫司副使
13thSeventh Rank Primary
正七品
Mandarin duckPantherAuditor of the Supreme Court 大理寺評事
Investigating censor 監察御史
14thSeventh Rank Secondary
從七品
Mandarin duckPantherMonitor of the Six Ministries 給事中
Deputy Ambassador 行人司左司副
15thEighth Rank Primary
正八品
OrioleRhinocerosAccountant at the Department of Finance 戶部照磨
Deputy County Administrator 縣丞
16thEighth Rank Secondary
從八品
OrioleRhinocerosAssistant Priest at the Ministry of Imperial Sacrifices 太常寺祀丞
Supervisor at the Ministry of Royal Food Service 光祿寺監事
17thNinth Rank Primary
正九品
QuailA horse in the sea
Chief Servant at the Ministry of Royal Theatres 教坊司奉鑾
Chief Officer at the Headquarter of Official Travels 會同館大使
18th
Ninth Rank Secondary
從九品
QuailA horse in the sea
Warden 司獄
Marshal 巡檢

Court dress for women

Cloaks

Lower garments

Religious clothing

Those in the religious orders wear a plain middle layer garment followed by a highly decorated cloak or coat. Taoists have a 'scarlet gown' which is made of a large square-shaped cloak sewn at the hem to create very long deep sleeves used in very formal rituals. They are often scarlet or crimson in colour with wide edging and embroidered with intricate symbols and motifs such as the eight trigrams and the yin and yang Taiji symbol.
Buddhist have a cloak with gold lines on a scarlet background creating a brickwork pattern which is wrapped around over the left shoulder and secured at the right side of the body with cords. There may be further decorations, especially for high priests.
Daoists, Buddhists and Confucians may have white stripe chevrons.

Handwear

Gloves and mitts