School uniforms in Japan
The majority of Japan's junior high and high schools require students to wear school uniforms. Female Japanese school uniforms are noted for their sailor aesthetics, a characteristic adopted in the early 20th century to imitate the popular sailor dress trend occurring in Western nations. The aesthetic also arose from a desire to imitate military style dress, particularly in the design choices for male uniforms. These school uniforms were introduced in Japan in the late 19th century, replacing the traditional kimono. Today, school uniforms are common in many Japanese public and private schools. The Japanese word for the sailor style of uniform is.
History
The usage of School uniforms in Japan began in the mid-19th century. Previously, students wore standard everyday clothes to school: kimono for female students, with for male students. During the Meiji period, students began to wear uniforms modelled after Western dress.Late 19th century: The Hakama era
In the 1880s female students wore Western dress, but this came to be considered impractical. Utako Shimoda, a women's activist, educator and dress reformer, found traditional kimono to be too restrictive. She argued that the Kimono prevented women and girls from moving and taking part in physical activities, thus harming their health. While western dress was being adopted at the time, she also believed corsets to be restrictive and also harmful to women's health. Utako Shimoda had worked as lady-in-waiting to Empress Shōken from 1871 to 1879. She adapted the clothing worn by ladies-in-waiting at the Japanese imperial court, which included, to make a uniform for her Jissen Women's University. During the Meiji period and the following Taishō period, other women's schools also adopted the. It became standard wear for high schools in Japan, and is still worn by many women to their university graduations.During the Taishō period, male students began to wear . These, apart from the footwear, are still worn today.
Early 20th century: Introduction of the Serafuku
The 1920s saw the introduction of European/American-style naval uniforms, called in Japanese. The idea was taken from scaled-down sailor suits worn by children coming from royal European families, while also drawing inspiration from American female sailor dresses that had been a popular trend amongst the Youths of America in the early 20th Century. It was relatively easy to sew and thus was easily adopted in the country. Fukuoka Jo Gakuin University adopted the serafuku in 1921, while evidence suggests Heian Jogakuin University may have adopted the serafuku as early as 1920.World War II era
During World War II, student uniforms became militarised and were altered to accommodate the fact that schoolgirls were being drafted as factory workers to replace men who had gone to the front lines. Wearing skirts was deemed impractical and so loose slacks known as were issued as alternatives. Students were also required to wear large name tags bearing their name, address, and blood type for emergency identification. Additionally, head-protecting cushions were distributed to prepare for air raids.Mid 20th century
Following World War II and the Occupation of Japan by the United States, many schools adopted a more Western-patterned Catholic school uniform style. Compulsory education was extended to include junior high school, and public schools were required to become coeducational. With the establishment of numerous junior high schools nationwide, uniforms for boys and girls were altered. While most public junior high schools retained the traditional gakuran for boys and sailor uniforms for girls, some parents and educators felt uncomfortable with these uniforms' military associations. Seeking a more “peaceful” image, certain schools adopted uniforms inspired by those from abroad. The introduction of the blazer, especially in urban areas, became increasingly popular. Additionally, the advent of synthetic fabrics allowed for the production of durable, colourful uniforms at lower costs, fostering greater variety.Many home economics classes in Japan up until the 1950s gave sewing sailor outfits as assignments. Girls sewed sailor outfits for younger children in their communities.
Late 20th century
During the counterculture era of the 1970s in Japan, many left-wing and youth-led movements called for the abolishment of school uniforms in Japan entirely. These groups characterised the Seifuku and Gakuran as manifestations of Japanese authoritarianism.In the 1970s and 1980s, gangs began modifying uniforms by making skirts longer and shortening the tops, and so schools began switching to blazer or sweater vest style uniforms to try to combat the effect.
In 1986, the Akashi School Uniform Company published the book “Seifuku Kakumei” , which successfully advocated that high schools should have their own unique variants of the Seifuku. Two years later, in 1988, the company introduced student uniforms designed by the fashion designer Hanae Mori, sparking a trend where other uniform companies began collaborating with well-known designers to create stylish uniforms. Amongst the designers who became involved in uniform design following Hanar Mori was Kansai Yamamoto.
During the 1980s and 1990s, Japan experienced a period of economic prosperity often referred to as the "Bubble Era." This period brought significant cultural shifts, especially among young people, who embraced the concept of kawaii as a form of self-expression. Schoolgirls, in particular, became trendsetters by adopting playful and colourful fashion elements into their uniforms. The sailor uniform remained popular, but it was often customized with longer skirts, colourful ribbons, and loose socks. Another popular style combines sailor uniforms with casual elements like cardigans and loafers. This trend coincided with the emergence of the kogal subculture, where girls tanned their skin, dyed their hair blonde or brown, and wore shortened skirts. While these styles were seen as rebellious, they were also perceived as empowering expressions of individuality. This fashion movement significantly influenced Japanese pop culture, from music videos to television dramas, and sparked international interest in Japanese youth fashion.
21st century
As Japan entered the 21st century, educational reforms and societal changes led to the gradual standardization of school uniforms. Many schools moved away from sailor suits in favour of blazer uniforms, which were considered more practical and professional. These new uniforms typically featured pleated skirts, blazers, ties, and loafers for girls, while boys wore blazers with trousers and ties. The gyaru subculture of the 2000s, with its bold fashion statements, continued to influence school uniform modifications. However, as social norms tightened and dress codes became stricter, overt customization became less common. Instead, the focus shifted towards more subtle personalisation, such as varying the style of socks or adding discreet accessories., 50% of Japanese junior high schools and 20% of senior high schools use sailor suit uniforms. The stated in 2012 that, "The sailor suit is changing from adorable and cute, a look that 'appeals to the boys,' to a uniform that "girls like to wear for themselves." As of that year, contemporary sailor suits have front closures with zippers or snaps and more constructed bodices. The stated that "the form is snug to enhance the figure—the small collar helps the head look smaller, for better balance."
In the 2020s many Japanese high schools are pivoting to items such as gender-neutral blazers to accommodate LGBT students.
Usage
The Japanese junior and senior-high-school uniform traditionally consists of a [|military-styled uniform] for boys and a [|sailor outfit] for girls. These uniforms are based on Meiji-period formal military dress, themselves modeled on American/European-style naval uniforms. The sailor outfits replace the undivided designed by Utako Shimoda between 1920 and 1930. While this style of uniform is still in use, many schools have moved to more Western-pattern Catholic school uniform styles. These uniforms consist of a white shirt, tie, blazer with school crest, and tailored trousers for boys and a white blouse, tie, blazer with school crest, and tartan culottes or skirt for girls.Regardless of what type of uniform any particular school assigns its students, all schools have a summer version of the uniform and a sports-activity uniform. Depending on the discipline level of any particular school, students may often wear different seasonal and activity uniforms within the same classroom during the day. Individual students may attempt to subvert the system of uniforms by wearing their uniforms incorrectly or by adding prohibited elements such as large loose socks or badges. Girls may shorten their skirts, permanently or by wrapping up the top to decrease length; boys may wear trousers about the hips, omit ties, or keep their shirts unbuttoned.
Since some schools do not have sex-segregated changing- or locker-rooms, students may change for sporting activities in their classrooms. As a result, such students may wear their sports uniforms under their classroom uniforms. Certain schools also regulate student hairstyles, footwear, and book bags; but these particular rules are usually adhered to only on special occasions, such as trimester opening and closing ceremonies and school photo days.
It is normal for uniforms to be worn outside of school areas, but this is going out of fashion and many students wear casual dress outside of school. While not many public elementary schools in Japan require uniforms, many private schools and public schools run by the central government still do so.The, also called the, is a uniform for junior high school and senior high school boys in Japan. The colour is normally black, but some schools use navy blue.
The top has a standing collar buttoning down from top-to-bottom. Buttons are usually decorated with the school emblem to show respect to the school. Pants are straight leg and a black or dark-coloured belt is worn with them. Boys usually wear penny loafers or sneakers with this uniform. Some schools may require the students to wear collar-pins representing the school and/or class rank.
Traditionally, the is also worn along with a matching student cap, although this custom is less common in modern times.
The is derived from the Prussian Waffenrock. The term is a combination of meaning "study" or "student", and meaning the Netherlands or, historically in Japan, the West in general; thus, translates as "Western style clothes for student ".
The original model of the present day was first established in 1873 for students of all schools. During the Japanese occupation, such clothing was also brought to school in Korea, Taiwan, and Manchukuo. Nowadays, the is still worn in some South Korean conservative high schools.
While the is associated solely as the boys' uniform of both most middle schools and conservative high schools in Japan nowadays, blazers began to be adopted in most number of high schools in Japan.