Iya Valley
The Iya Valley region in Tokushima Prefecture, Japan is a scenic area known for its mountain valleys, thatched roof farmhouses and historic Vine Bridges. Although access has improved in recent years, the Iya Valley and the inner parts of Shikoku have historically been remote and difficult to enter. Members of the Taira clan were said to have entered the area after losing the Genpei War to the Minamoto clan in the late 12th century.
The Iya Valley has become an increasingly popular tourist destination for its natural environment and as one of the last few vestiges of old Japan. While the western part of the valley has good road access and tourist accommodations, the eastern part or Oku-Iya ) has lesser access routes. Several Vine Bridges continue to span the valley and have become a tourist attraction.
Etymology
The origin of the name Iya is unclear. According to noted Japanese historical researcher Kunio Yanagita, the term "Iya" or "Oya" has been used since time immemorial to denote this mountainous valley region. This term may translate to "ancestor" or "mountain/land spirit". Still, since it is a phonetic term and predates the introduction of Chinese characters, it remains uncertain.According to Kunio Yanagita, the introduction of Chinese characters, the Kanji characters 祖谷, which translates to "ancestor valley" were chosen since they matched both the meaning and the phonetics.
History
The remoteness of the Iya Valley made it a famous hideout for defeated samurai warriors and other refugees over the centuries. The most infamous inhabitants of the area were members of the Taira clan who were believed to have sought refuge in the valley after facing defeat in the Genpei War to the Minamoto clan, who went on to found the Kamakura Shogunate in the late 12th century. Iya has a number of vine bridges, which are said to have been initially created by the Taira and can be found in parts of the valley.Geography
Several rivers flow through the Iya Valley region, but the Iya River is the primary one. It flows from East to West, through the entirety of the Iya Valley. Mount Tsurugi, the second-highest peak on the island of Shikoku, is at the Eastern most part of the Iya Valley along the border with Tsurugi town. The Iya River headwaters begin flowing from the springs of the mountain, some at altitudes as high as 1800m. The Iya Valley follows the river for about 50 km to the village of Iyaguchi in the Yamashiro District of Miyoshi City where it joins the Yoshino River at an elevation of about 90m.The Iya Valley was formerly divided into two designated villages, East Iya and West Iya. On March 1, 2006, both villages merged with other local towns to form Miyoshi City. Locally, the two former villages are still referred to by their old names, "Nishi-Iya" and "Higashi-Iya".
The lower reaches of the Iya Valley are referred to as the Iya Gorge. This area is mostly undeveloped and unpopulated. The original road to the Iya Valley runs through this area and was built between the years 1902 and 1920. Though a modern tunnel now connects the central valley to Oboke, it is still possible to take the old route, mostly a one-lane road through the gorge. About halfway along this 20 km long cliffside road is the Peeing Boy Statue erected in honor of young boys who relieved themselves from this high precipice.
Culture
Food
AgricultureThe traditional culinary offerings in the valley are based on small terraced farm plots that climb the hillsides through the valley's hamlets. Few mechanized tools are used though some have small hand-pushed tilling machines. The main fertilizer is the susuki grass which is also used as roof thatch. This grass is harvested in the mid-autumn and bundled into small pyramids around the fields to be used in the spring.
Grains and Vegetables
Various vegetables are produced for local consumption or use in the valley's inns. Historically, rice was grown but proved difficult to cultivate in abundance. The main staples are soba and potatoes. The soba is either prepared as a whole-grain porridge or as noodles. To this day, noodles are ground by hand in traditional stone mortars in some households, and several people in the valley offer classes.
The famed Iya potatoes are small and dense due to the rough and rocky soil conditions. Usually served roasted or in soups, a local dish consists of whole-boiled potatoes mixed with miso paste and garlic.
Other foods include locally produced tofu -which is rather unusual in Japan- and is called ishi-tofu or iwa-dofu by the locals which literally means "stone tofu". It gets its name from its thick density. It is so stiff that a brick-sized piece would be traditionally carried by a single rope wrapped around it. This is prepared in soups, roasted over charcoal with miso paste, or served uncooked with ground ginger, green onions, and soy sauce.
Konnyaku is another locally produced delicacy which is a rubbery gelatin produced from a Japanese yam. Renowned for its medicinal and health qualities, it is served in soups, roasted or uncooked with miso paste.
A common treat in this region called dekomawashi consists of a whole Iya potato, a square of iwadofu and a wedge of konnyaku all skewered together on a bamboo stick, then slathered with miso and slowly roasted over coals. This can be found at roadside shops and most hotels and restaurants.
Various types of wild mountain sprouts collectively known throughout Japan as san-sai are a garnish for soups and noodle dishes and are a rather sought-after delicacy in the Iya Valley. As such, mountainous terrain is where they tend to grow randomly. However like elsewhere in the country, due to the expense and difficulty in producing, it is probably more common at most local restaurants and hotels to be served cheaper imported san-sai, usually from China. However, local people do produce san-sai for their own use and if staying at a small inn or homestay you would probably have an opportunity to sample the real thing.
Meat
In the past, hunting and fishing were common. However, wild boar and deer are still prized, and the few living hunters/trappers can now sell their finds at the new hunters' butchery, opened in 2014, located in Higashi Iya. As a result, such wild game is available in some local restaurants and hotels. Traditionally, the local hunters had huts deep in the mountains where their kills were taken and butchered, the hunting dogs were fed, the meat was grilled and shared. It was a common practice for the prime cuts to be eaten raw.River trout is a popular delicacy, and though some still fished it, it is more commonly farmed by a few local hatcheries. The entire fish is usually encrusted in salt, skewered with a bamboo stick, and then slowly roasted over charcoal.
The amego fish is also the main ingredient of hirara-yaki, an offering unique to the Iya Valley. This meal is traditionally slow-cooked on a large stone with a fire, but now more commonly prepared on a large iron griddle. Thick walls of miso paste are formed in a circle around the edges, and inside a collection of fish, potatoes, tofu, onions, and konnyaku are cooked in a sake-based broth that steeps in the surrounding miso. While usually prepared at festivals or special occasions, it is possible to find one on the menu at some inns and hotels.
Drink
There is no local alcohol legally produced. While beer is common, the older generation prefers sake, and middle-aged men are more partial to shochu.The Iya drinking etiquette is usually practiced at shrine festivals, home parties, and banquets. A person has his own small cup from which he must first consume a cupful to 'break it in'. Then the person passes the cup to his neighbor and pours him a cup. The neighbor must immediately drink it so he can return the cup. The cup is then poured for the person, and he must quickly drink it before returning. This sharing and serving of cups continue back and forth between two people as long as their conversation, and then they move on to other people in the room. It is proper to share at least one cup with every person present at the occasion, which takes a long time and results in heavy intoxication at large gatherings.
It is common for local people to grow and roast their own tea, called bancha, and it is primarily used for household consumption. Each spring, the youngest leaves are picked, roasted, pressed by hand, and dried in the sun on straw mats laid out in front of homes. When visiting a home, it is common to be served hot or lukewarm.
Festivals
Several festivals of various sizes are held throughout the year.Most local Shinto shrines host their festivals for the surrounding neighborhood once or twice a year according to their own traditions. In these events, local customs often call for a group of men to carry a small portable shrine around the shrine grounds, accompanied by drummers, costumed people, and sometimes a pair of people throwing long bamboo staffs. Each shrine and neighborhood has its own customs, but due to the dwindling population, these traditions are less common.
The largest festivals in the valley are the summer festivals, one each in Nishi-Iya and Higashi-Iya. They are held at the middle school grounds on the weekends before and after the national Obon Holiday since it is a time when family members who have moved away often return for a visit. These events are open to anyone and include food tents, games, performances, and fireworks, so if visiting the area at this time, ask around or look for promotional posters.
The Yukigassen is held each January in Higashi Iya and has become a major event at a time when few visit the valley. Not simply a free-for-all event, this event is team-based, and participants often practice for months to coordinate their skills in the tightly ruled sport. There are several classes of participation, including children, women's, men's, and 'just for fun' leagues, and the winners of the main event advance to the national competition annually held in Nagano Prefecture.