Holt Renfrew
Holt, Renfrew & Co., Limited is a Canadian luxury department store chain founded in 1837 by William S. Henderson. The original William Ashton & Co. store in Quebec City, Lower Canada operated as a fur shop. The company serviced the greater North American and European markets with its mail order catalog beginning in the late 1800s, and was appointed Furriers in Ordinary to several members of the British royal family from 1886 to 1921.
The present-day Holt Renfrew name comes from the additions of business partner George Richard Renfrew in 1862, and company president John Henderson Holt in 1900. The company became a full-line retailer with the opening of the multi-level Sherbrooke Street store in Montreal in 1937. It was acquired by Wittington Investments in 1986, and was affiliated with the European department stores Selfridges, Brown Thomas, and de Bijenkorf until the Weston family divested of the Selfridges Group in 2022., Holt Renfrew operates six department stores in four Canadian provinces, including the flagship store at the Holt Renfrew Centre on Bloor Street West in Toronto and the former Ogilvy store on Saint Catherine Street in Montreal.
Holt Renfrew and Simons, both founded in the 1800s in Quebec City, are the only Canadian department stores operating as of 2025. Holt Renfrew is comparable to American department stores Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue.
19th century history
In 1837, William S. Henderson, an Irish-born merchant, bought his partners' interest in their Quebec City fur shop and went into business for himself, thereby marking the traditional founding date of Holt Renfrew. Three years earlier, Henderson had arrived by ship from Londonderry with a load of hats and caps. The merchandise sold well and other overseas crossings followed. Eventually, Henderson set up shop at Quebec under the name William Ashton & Co. An early company advertisement noted a line of wholesale and retail garments and accessories that included Ladies' fur muffs, boas and tippets, in addition to Buffalo Robes and Bear skins, procured as well as "manufactured on this premises." By 1847, the store, then renamed William S. Henderson & Co., had established itself at 12 Buade Street. Eventually the store moved to larger premises at 35 Buade where it remained for many years. Over the decades that followed, the store's ownership changed hands, as various partners came and went, and the firm's name underwent revision. W.S. Henderson eventually sold the store to his brother John, a Montreal businessman, and it became John Henderson & Co. In 1862, with the addition of business partner George Richard Renfrew, the store's name changed to Henderson, Renfrew and Company. By the time of Confederation, in 1867, Henderson had retired and Renfrew and V.H. Marcou, whom Henderson had sent to Quebec to manage the business, had become the new principals, with the firm renamed Renfrew & Marcou.By the middle of the 19th century, the company had begun promoting its fur garments beyond Quebec to a larger North American and European market. An 1890 mail order fur catalogue listed nine different medals and diplomas won at London, Paris, and Philadelphia exhibitions from 1851 to 1888. During its history, the store served many notable patrons. Admirers of John A. Macdonald, Canada's first Prime Minister, had decided the coat he had worn during an 1883 visit to Quebec City was not befitting his status as first minister and bought him a new fur coat from the company. Then, in 1886, G.R. Renfrew & Co. received its most prestigious honour, being named "Furriers in Ordinary" by Her Majesty Queen Victoria. The Queen had purchased a number of fur items from the company's display at the Indian & Colonial Exhibition held that year at London, England. The Quebec Daily Telegraph wrote at length about the appointment:
Visitors to the late provincial exhibition in this city will remember that lithographed copies in duplicate were shown of the royal letters patent from the Mistress of the Robes at Windsor Castle, notifying Messrs. G.R. Renfrew & Co. of their appointment as furriers to the Queen. At the same exhibition this firm exposed a duplicate set in sable to that purchased from them by Her Majesty the Queen in person, at the Indian & Colonial Exhibition in London. In common with many of our readers, we are not of opinion that a firm, any more than a private individual is the better individually, for rubbing against royalty, but we are speaking of business affairs in a business sense, and there is no doubt that Queen Victoria would not have patronized Messrs. G.R. Renfrew & Co. when she wanted a new muff, nor appointed them as her special furriers, unless she was satisfied that their articles were the very best of the kind manufactured, and that she could not do as well elsewhere. It is upon the knowledge of these facts that we congratulate Messrs. G.R. Renfrew & Co., and feel a legitimate pride in the success of our fellow citizens abroad. At home their success is exemplified by the large number of awards made their exhibits, and also by the splendid stock which they always keep on hand in the mammoth establishment.
It was, in fact, the first of a series of royal warrants issued by members of the British royal family. In 1901, Holt, Renfrew & Co. was appointed furriers to Her Majesty Queen Alexandra and then to His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, later King Edward VII, in 1903. In 1910, the company was appointed by royal warrant furriers to His Majesty King George V. The last of the royal warrants was issued by the Prince of Wales, later King Edward VIII, in 1921.
In 1889, the company established its first store outside of Quebec City with a new retail outlet at 71 and 73 King Street East, Toronto. William Henderson had by this time retired and his nephew, Allen E. Renfrew, had become partner.
20th century history
In 1900, John Henderson Holt, who began his career as a company clerk, was appointed president and the firm became known as Holt, Renfrew & Co. By 1908, the company's structure had changed again and it had become Holt, Renfrew & Co., Limited. Meanwhile, the company continued to display its furs at various international expositions, such as the Franco-British Exhibition, held in London, England, that same year. Described as a "great merger of fur firms" by the press, in 1910 Holt Renfrew acquired Dunlop, Cook Co. Limited, and established new premises at Montreal, on fashionable St. Catherine St. W., in addition to taking over the firm of W. J. Hammond, "the largest fur house in the West," at Winnipeg, Manitoba. With the death of John H. Holt in 1915, A.E. Renfrew was appointed company president, a position he held until his retirement in 1919.In 1937, in conjunction with the company's 100th anniversary, Holt Renfrew unveiled a new six-storey Montreal headquarters and flagship store. Designed by the Canadian architectural firm of Ross and Macdonald, the structure was built in what became known as the Streamline Moderne style of Art Deco. Women’s Wear Daily wrote of the limestone structure, located at the corner of Sherbrooke and Mountain streets, as "one of the most modernly and attractively appointed retail establishments on this continent" and further commented that "throughout the store the aim has been to secure an effect of luxury and good taste." Press reports also noted the new store's commitment to haute couture and how "New York fashions, as well as London and Paris models, are represented in the dress, coat, sportswear, millinery and other fashion departments." Holt Renfrew also retailed the work of Canadian high-fashion designers such as Marie-Paule Nolin, whose salon and workroom were hosted by the store during the 1940s.
With the outbreak of armed conflict in Europe and Canada's early entry into World War II, Holt Renfrew's fashion reflected the new homefront realities. With the rationing of textiles and other materials, the company's designs featured shorter sleeves and raised hemlines. Retail expansion during this time was muted, with the exception of Holt Renfrew's acquisition of Simon Furs of Ottawa in 1945.
After World War II
The conclusion of war saw Holt Renfrew re-emerge as Canada's leading furrier and fashion retailer, closely associated with the haute couture of the post-war era. In 1947, on the eve of the impending marriage of Princess Elizabeth, heir to the British throne, and Prince Philip, the company was commissioned by the Canadian government to design the country's official wedding gift for the princess. President Alvin J. Walker flew to London, England, with a selection of 85 samples to personally show and take measurements for the Labrador wild mink coat.Early in the post-war period, Holt Renfrew re-established close working relationships with the leading fashion houses of Europe and North America. By 1947, Alvin Walker signed an agreement with the House of Christian Dior to sell its Paris haute couture in Canada. With Dior's "New Look," and its renewed emphasis on luxury and femininity in women's fashion making headlines, it was the beginning of an extended relationship that "linked the name of Holt Renfrew to the most famous fashion designer in the world at the time." The arrangement soon evolved into an exclusive one as Walker secured an agreement to solely represent Dior in the Canadian marketplace. Newspaper ads for Dior fashion explicitly noted, "only at Holt Renfrew in all of Canada." Along with Dior, the couture models of other well-known Paris designers were also featured:
Holt Renfrew's own fashionists attended the recent Winter Openings of the leading couturiers in Paris. The models selected by them are here...they have arrived by air express. This collection...the largest ever imported by H.R...presents a composite and perfect picture of the New Fashion created by Paris...the dramatic "Wing Line" by CHRISTIAN DIOR...the lovely subtle straightline with sudden flare sponsored by PIERRE BALMAIN...the flattering backward drapery by JACQUES FATH...the sylph-line skirt and Bryonic corsage by MOLYNEUX...the higher waistline ROBERT PIGUET...the tubular skirt with stiffened pockets by JACQUES GRIFFE...and the most perfect black dresses by BALENCIAGA. Included are all types of costumes from the typically Parisian tailleur...for the morning promenade in the Bois...to gay short evening dresses and formal gowns with daring decolletes and short irregular trains.
Holt Renfrew also secured exclusive Canadian rights to the haute couture of Italian designers Simonetta Visconti and Fabiani. Its representatives not only made frequent trips to the fashion houses of Paris, London, New York and Milan but also attended all major fur and fashion shows. One magazine writer commented on how the "eternal watchfulness of Holt Renfrew buyers on the world's fashion fronts and their close liaison with outstanding designers and creators of fashions plays an important part in the rapidly growing roster of Holt Renfrew customers." The company hosted some of the leading international designers. In 1952, Mr. Christian Dior was guest of honour at Holts in Montreal. Three years later, Dior was present for a fashion show of his creations at Holt Renfrew's new Toronto store, located along the Mink Mile at 144 Bloor Street West – the country's first ever all stainless steel building, noteworthy for its "modern facade of blue glass and gleaming material." Dior models, from Paris and New York, were specially flown in for the runway event.